For anyone who cares its all done and works great in the box. I had to take the female yoke(not pictured) to a machine shop and have the thickness of the Drivesaver cut off, and rethreaded for the seal nut. It was pretty tough to put back on the flywheel, bellhouing on motor still in boat.
note: make sure you put the shaft back together "in phase"

Any pics of the part you machined?

No pics of that, just forgot. I have heard that the shaft doesn't always have to be cut/machined, it depends on your set-up?

I guess my question is does the drive saver really need to be on? I want to bolt it directly to the fly wheel but with the added width of the drive saver, something has to be removed. I know there is a steel plate that adapts the steelings shaft to the flywheel....can this be elimated and the drive saver used in its place?

No, the drive saver goes on top of that. I searched all over for a 6 bolt/4 bolt drive saver combo that would fit.

No luck...

God bless you! It is a pain in the ass working in that box!

You might also want to get an 18 in grease gun line with the right fitting plumb it into the (red) carrier bearing. Then, drill and tap the door, on the inside, put the hose, on the outside put a stainless zerk. this way, you can grease the carrier bearing in 30 seconds.

Mine lasted almost twice as long with good constant greasing. Hassle free...

Thanks, that is what I was needing to know. I think I am going to not install the drive saver this season......

I'm going a different route altogether since I had the parts lying around.

Using the Stellings boxes with driveline bellhousings, Bravo couplers and driveshafts. I had planned on moving the engines forward anyway for better balance and needed to do so to make room for the driveline bells and shaft componants. It's going together now so I can post some pics later in the week if anyone wants to see? I figured the coupler would be better protection for the drives.