Bravo 1 Drops??
#1
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From: Bettendorf, Iowa
My Drive drops now. Only takes a couple hours to fall from trailer mode to all the way down. I have a new trim pump sitting around. was swondering if that could cause it and how hard is it to rebuild the rams?
#3
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From: Bettendorf, Iowa
So, sinsce i have a new one sitting around.... Just toss it in and see what happens? My current pump is sounding a little sick as well. it keeps getting louder and louder. so it may be just its time. Since i have owned the boat it would take about a week or so to drop..... So i would use it on a saturday, then the next friday it would still be up and then on saturday when getting ready to go to the ramp it would be down. so when she starts to fall she falls!
#4
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From: Bettendorf, Iowa
Ok, tossed the other trim pump in it. still same concern. so now i am guessin i need to rebuuild the rams. is there a shop manual i can refrence and does anyone know the part number of the rebuild kit.?
#5
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From: Toledo Oh
ok... couple questions that will narrow it down
1. how does the oil look?? If its milky you are getting water in, the external lines/manifold or rams are leaking.
2. If the oil looks good, is there oil in the bilge? if so it is the line(S)from the pump to the transom assembly.
Now for the good news, the pump is the expensive part. Get the rebuild kits for the rams, its a pretty simple job as you are just replacing a few o-rings and seals and they are cheap. The lines are a bit more expensive but still not bad. depending on how easily it comes apart, I would change the manifold on the bottom of the gimble assembly (and gasket)as they are really easy to strip when they get old. The whole deal should be under $150 and take an afternoon. If you have chocolate milk for fluid, look at the rams for pin holes in the cylinders or galled shafts, If you find either replace the ram. If it's not milky and there is no oil in the bilge, just do the ram kits. Unbolt the ram from the drive, but leave it attached to the gimble, do not mess with the lines, leave the lines attached and the rams attached to the gimble assembly. Once you have unbolted them from the drive end, a pipe wrench can undo the endcap.
1. how does the oil look?? If its milky you are getting water in, the external lines/manifold or rams are leaking.
2. If the oil looks good, is there oil in the bilge? if so it is the line(S)from the pump to the transom assembly.
Now for the good news, the pump is the expensive part. Get the rebuild kits for the rams, its a pretty simple job as you are just replacing a few o-rings and seals and they are cheap. The lines are a bit more expensive but still not bad. depending on how easily it comes apart, I would change the manifold on the bottom of the gimble assembly (and gasket)as they are really easy to strip when they get old. The whole deal should be under $150 and take an afternoon. If you have chocolate milk for fluid, look at the rams for pin holes in the cylinders or galled shafts, If you find either replace the ram. If it's not milky and there is no oil in the bilge, just do the ram kits. Unbolt the ram from the drive, but leave it attached to the gimble, do not mess with the lines, leave the lines attached and the rams attached to the gimble assembly. Once you have unbolted them from the drive end, a pipe wrench can undo the endcap.
Last edited by phragle; 06-18-2010 at 10:28 AM.
#7
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From: Bettendorf, Iowa
I did look for leaks yesterday before installing the pump. the fluid shows no signs of watere contimination. the block on the bottom of the drive is dry. the bildge os dry of oil. sooooooo i think i need to re-build the rams... Anyone got a part number for the kits? can i get them from cp?




