repainting outdrives
#11
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Joined: Apr 2010
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Griif is right - people underestimate how much force is on a drive at speed. A buddy had his outdrive powdercoated. They are chipping now, after only one season. Same group powdercoated some above waterline stuff for him, and it's fine.
#12
#13
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From: Bradenton Florida
#14
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,621
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From: Cheboygan, MI
I put a Hydra-Motive Nose cone on my Bravo 1, sanded everything with 320, then primed with Rust-Oleum Aluminum primer. Then sanded with 400 wet, wiped it down with alcohol then Rust-Oleum black. What a waste of time, first time I hit 80 paint started pealing, I can't keep paint on the skeg to save my life. Has anyone had any luck keeping paint on a drive that does over 80?
#16
I put a Hydra-Motive Nose cone on my Bravo 1, sanded everything with 320, then primed with Rust-Oleum Aluminum primer. Then sanded with 400 wet, wiped it down with alcohol then Rust-Oleum black. What a waste of time, first time I hit 80 paint started pealing, I can't keep paint on the skeg to save my life. Has anyone had any luck keeping paint on a drive that does over 80?
#18
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,325
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From: Northern NY
I put a Hydra-Motive Nose cone on my Bravo 1, sanded everything with 320, then primed with Rust-Oleum Aluminum primer. Then sanded with 400 wet, wiped it down with alcohol then Rust-Oleum black. What a waste of time, first time I hit 80 paint started pealing, I can't keep paint on the skeg to save my life. Has anyone had any luck keeping paint on a drive that does over 80?
Yes! Little past 90 all last season.
Repainted my lowers last spring, started with Martin Senour All Metal primer followed by their Prisim urethane single stage paint. My brother-in-law owns a NAPA store and I had him look into this, above was his paint reps best shot. Boat sits in water all season and came thru looking great. No paint loss, no corrosion or blistering. Prep is the real key, just follow the MS directions for refinishing aluminum. One thing that was brought up to me was not to let the bare aluminum sit after final sanding, you must get it into primer within a few hours, or completely re-sand, something happens that hurts the bond if it sits too long. I would think that 400 might be a little fine for this deal, you need more bite.
He also sells the POR products, and I considered using it, but the MS products came with a more positive nod to hold up.
Last edited by RaggedEdge; 03-04-2011 at 05:06 PM.
#19
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 107
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From: Streamwood IL.
I also need to repaint my drive, looking for more information. I would like to do this once and hope its last for a few years . Did anyone use por15 or any other primer and paint the drivers with the merc. paint. I want to know how long it lasted. I work at a car dealer with a bodyshop the painter said he can sand down the drives, prime them, paint with a emron black paint, then clear and they sould be fine. What Iam not sure about is the, "should be fine" he never painted boat outdrives before.
#20
Pittsburg paint's line of Pitt-Tech industrial epoxies work really well....you can do it yourself, they flow well, and you can touch up the knicks in a second....they are designed to adhere to bare metal in harsh environments....we've had good success with their stuff....check out their web site....





