Thats really only going to raise you up 1". You could go much higher than that, that will be real expensive and not a lot of speed gain, maybe 2 MPH. Just doing the shortie without the box will get you 2-3 MPH. With what you have I would take a closer look at the stellings and keep your current lower. Unless you want to raise your engine up 3" and do the raised imco box.

So much information and misinformation (not saying your is misinformation ) since I started this project. I am starting to get very nervous now that I'm into this project.... the last thing I want to do is spend thousands for minimal gains if any at all.

I have a call into Stellings and I will see what they say.

The one thing I want to do for sure is get the E-box on now before the engine goes back in.

The more research you do the better. I know how to go fast, you know that, if my budget were bigger we would really be in trouble.

I was refering to 4.5-5" without the ext box. He could go up about another inch with with a neutral box.
The longer the boat, the harder it will be to carry the bow. When you compare LOA, a 26 Outlaw is about 4' longer than your 236. With a swim platform, he is about 27.5'
As an example. my 28 Pantera was set at about 3.75" and it wasn't deep enough. Propslip was over 22%. I had to go down another inch. The 1" decreased slip to about 17%, improved the ride, cruise speed and increased top end by 1-2mph. This was all with a Bravo 1 4 blade.

Yes, I have Stelling Boxes and they are adjustable, but mine were set as high as they could go from the factory.
You do have to be careful with the amount of angle when you raise the Stellings boxes. Too much angle will stress the U joints. My engines are moved forward with a driveshaft, so my angle is greatly reduced.

25' outlaw and 26 outlaw are nearly identical. WildCard09's numbers (25' outlaw) are on OSO. WC09's best was 3" raised, but it was the box (combined with good horsepower) that made the big difference. Neutral box and 2" shorty will be great for you. I think you'll gain 2-3 minimum. could be as much as 4-5. FYI- 2" shorty by itself doesn't do much of anything on a 26 outlaw but look cool as hell. - I've tried it myself.

Your plan is a good one. Roll with it and keep us posted.

I had the same plan, but burned out trying props etc. and lost motivation after the shorty by itself -dealing with water pressure issues setting my guardian off. So decided to leave mine as is for now. I've got a 600sci so have pretty good speed to begin with. If I ever start messing with it again, I will go straight to the box.

Griff, I agree, without a box 4.5 to 5" should be your target. But if he adds the box he should go up higher, more like 3".

I've never heard of any ext. box lowering the "X" Sorry to jump in so late in the game. Even the neutral (so called) boxes are made on the slant, compensating for transom angle. I've never seen a straight box that would push the "X" down. I have Stellings boxes and in the neutral position theres a slight raise and adjustable up to 3" raise. I chose Stellings because it uses a shaft and "U" joints to connect to the engine and raising the engines wasn't required. Since I also pushed the engines forward 2' I used drive line bellhousings and trans replacers so I was able to retain the Bravo rubber couplers and save some shock to my drives.

The reason guys say extension boxes lower the x is because, in theory they do. As the water leaves the bottom of the boat it rises up. When you move the propeller away from the boat it meets the water at a higher level than it would if it were closer to the boat. Savy?
My 29 is at 4.25" and is about all the higher I would want to go on MY boat. Each boat is different and therefore will react differently to a box.
IMCO may still have a +3 box or 2 laying around, but last I checked they were not producing them anymore. Call & ask.
As far as actually choosing the best option, chose the option with the most versatility. A Stellings box with a -2" lower would give you the most to chose from with adjustments. Up/down on the box + the ability to space the -2" lower down. ALWAYS buy the shortest lower you can. Spacers are cheaper than cases.
I wouldn't want to fo what Wildcard did to his boat. I think that is too much & it took away from the overall performance of the boat. I know it was/is fast, but there is a very distinct line between fast & quick. I'd rather have quick. You'll keep the handling of the boat & you'll be less hard on the drive because it won't be getting aired out as often when it's deeper in the water.

If this were my project, I'd do a neutral IMCO box with a -3" drive from IMCO. The -3" IMCO is a complete drive, although people have altered their Bravos cavitation plate to accept the -3" lower. You can still space it down if needed.
I run the -3" IMCO SC Extreme. It is a decent drive with XR internals.
Check the classifieds, they are in there quite often.
Whatever you do, just remember you don't want the X up too high. I think I'd shoot for the 4.25-5" range like others have suggested.
You certainly don't want to loose too much leverage by going too short.

Thanks for the additional information.

I was told with the -3 lower I couldn't run a big prop (which is an entirely different can of worms). I am waiting to see what the final HP will be once everything is put back together before I start thinking about props. What prop sizes will be limited on the -3?