He's running #6's with 525's. A mongoloid couldn't tear that package up regardless of what oil was being used.
Bobby, have you had many drive failures? You've got some power in your ride, but I don't recall hearing any carnage stories.
If you want the NEO oil, let me know. I'm a dealer for the Bravo Shop & I'd love to help you out.
Hell, that offer goes to anyone who is willing to run it.

Till I learned how to throttle the boat I smashed a few ,four uppers one lower , One upper was with stock power ,the lower hit ground .The six blade Herrings didnt help. Dont get me wrong, Im real careful with the sticks , looking back failures my fault! I change the fliud alot every five weekends or after a high speed weekend .mainly looking for signs of trouble,lubes still good .you do have a good piont about the 525,s no.6,s

Would it be worth it for me? I was just going to replace with Merc HiPer. 525's/TRS

http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/e...-09_134313.jpg

Just changed my oil, ran it all season last year on same oil, sat all winter, Amsoil SG. No shavings at all on the magnets, oil a touch dark, pretty impressed.

Fixed it for ya.... :drink:

No you're not & yes you should run it.

I have been breaking complete teeth off of the upper gears. I don't think any type of gear oil will stop that. I am back on my quest to engineer better gear sets that will last longer and not snap teeth clean off.

After I get my gears made, then I would be interested in a better gear oil.

SMITTY,,,, if you are breaking XR's alot,,, you need to cut out the caged roller bearing that comes with the gear set and replace it with a larger roller bearing(torington) use the same snap ring to hold the bearing in,,,,this will take the rock out of the upper gear set

Just my 2 cents- I'm your typical bravo guy with way more power than the law allows, in a single engine vee. Until desert storm weekend, I hadn't managed to get more than 2 hours out of any drive I've used on this boat. I tried a new bmax, and the neo oil... John at the bravo shop was adamant that I use this after a 2 hour break in with regular lube. I managed to run the poker run, make 3 solid pulls when the water cleared up a bit, AND drive back to tue marina under it's own power. This has NEVER happened before! I drained the oil and pulled the propshaft to check the lower gears, and all looks perfect after 7 hours of violent punishment in a heavy single engine boat with a ton of power and even more prop. I can't say it's all in the oil, but I've never had a set of lower gears live more than 2 hours in any of my drives. I'll be using the neo oil from now on.

From an guy running NEO I sold him in a Baja 40 Outlaw with twin 575's and XR's

"Quick update.....wish I would have put a drive temp gauge on but......I don't know if the gear lube lowered the temp or not, I do know that I have put my drives thru hell this past month and they are still together. Ran the Biloxi PR about 130 miles at 4500-5000RPM's . Just changed the lube and it was not burnt or smelled bad....."

Jason,
Why dont you fly up here & change my fluids. I dont like to get my hands dirty. ;) Oh & bring your pump too. I dont have one yet.

http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/e...16182928-2.jpg

ditto this helps alot and will clean up the teeth loss

Lucas oil just came out with a marine gear lube called Extreme Duty M8 75/90. Has anyone tried it yet?

Looks like a promissing option. I wonder how it's priced?

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...e%20Gear%20Oil

[QUOTE=07DominatorSS;3371320]oil shearing


This is the way I was told/my thinking..

Just think the bravo lower gear set has only 2 teeth touching at a time ,with extream HP levels the load TQ push's out the oil between the gears teeth and then makes metal to metal contack,Then Brinelling starts and then the gears start to come apart.Thats the reason for larger gears and #6s.

When I run out of my Amsoil gear lube stock .Ill prob try Bravo Shops Neo oil

Rob:drink:

Smart man!:drink:

Just broke a couple of lower teeth off. This is after 3 seasons of running 75/90 Royal Purple. Change oil at the end of every season but only put 20 hours/year. The other drive oil looked ok when we changed in the fall.

What have others found with Royal Purple?

[QUOTE=07DominatorSS;3371320]Any motor oil is GL-1 rated. Look at any japanese motorcycle, common sump for engine, tranny, and clutch.

Amsoil didn't reinvent the wheel here by claiming GL-1 with their engine oil.

The Japanese motorcycles have been using common sumps since they were made, way before Amsoil was even around.

Motor oil will last in a gear box, but you can't use your typical high shear aotomotive polymer to blend it. You need a polymer that is typical of a gear lube, unless the motor oil is blended from base stocks with no polymer.

Ken

If you think oil is high now, wait.

Ken

Found it doesn't meet spec out of the bottle.

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf

Yea, but if the spec oil (Mercruiser) doesn't protect their parts what good is the spec?

Mercruiser oil wasn't tested in the article he linked.

Never said Merc didn't meet spec. Just Royal Purple doesn't even meet 75w-90 spec out of the bottle. Neither does the "famous" Lucas. I would use either if it was given to me free.

I too on the advice of Max Machine worx have been running amsoil severe gear mixed with Lucas additive, my lower gear life doubled when I started having my lower gears Cryoed/iso polished (30 hours vs 10-15) and it doubled again (50-60) when I quit running that garbage royal purple and switched to the mix that is mentioned. However,as new products are developed such as this neo you guys are talking about I am not opposed to trying some, Smitty

As far as the original question,running a synthetic motor oil, it is not EP rated that I know of and I do know that GPM tried some in his drive behind 1400 or 1500 hp and the gears lasted about 2 or 3 hours but the set-up work that was done to his drive at the time is questionable, Smitty

First of all why try and fix something that isn't broke. But after comparing the little bit of info they give you on the NEO oil on their website to the AMSOIL Marine Gear Oil, the AMSOIL is just as good, and if I remember correctly, half the price if not less.
http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/gear-oil-75w90rhd/

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/agm.aspx

And if you're concerned with Flash point numbers, which is about all NEO gives you, if hit those temps, you've got other issues!!!:eek:

Not too mention, they say nothing about handling water intrusion.

Well, so far so good with the AMSOIL MCF in Bravo X's. My buddy with a 2011 32 Sunsation with new Merc 502's has put the MCF, motorcycle oil in his drives. We ran about 80 miles today, and the boat ran awesome!

Well, for one thing you aren't looking at the correct product. The marine gear lube isnt' even listed on NeoOil's website. Amsoil is not just as good as Neo drive oil that we designed and we guarantee our oil for 75 to 100 hours depending on application, so by the time you change your amsoil every 8 to 10 hours you have spent more money than buying the NeoOil 75-90MRHD oil.

You better change your buddy's oil because that motorcycle oil does not have the ability to last in a Bravo drive for any length of time.

Really? What makes you say that?

Also, 8-10 hours on AMSOIL. I've run it for full seasons, 55-65 hours, and my tests still come back just fine. So....now what? Show me a data sheet on this so called Neo Oil. Would love to know more about and why its expensive as can be! I love comparing products.

Really are you serious you think that a motorcycle oil is going to hold up to an out drive for more then a few hours.

Don't get me wrong amsoil is a great product for stock or slightly over stock applications way better then most on the market but for the high horse power boats it's just not what they need. As far as data sheets go we have tests being done and will have the results soon.

X2

Considering this is what Teague has run in his 6's for about 5 years now, in racing conditions and has seen literally zero wear, yeah, I do believe it will work just fine. And I'll put my AMSOIL up against anything you can bring!

And what exactly do these "non-stock" boats need? Whats the magical potion?

Your saying motor oil and gear oil is the same then

Wow, your pretty mouthy about all of this. :evilb: I can tell you that its lowered the temps in my bravos by a long shot but hey, what do I know. I just run around in a 13000lb bravo breaker. :kiss:

Heat is a bravo drives worst enemy IMO so by reducing it which is exactly what this oil has done for me, I have increased my drive longevity.

Different strokes for different folks bro. If you like your amsoil, run it. We used to run it in our trucking company for years and saw lower trans and drive temps. On the other side of that coin is NEO oil and its blend has been doing very well in bravo based boats, mine included.

[QUOTE=minxguy;3408248]Ken,
How is any motor oil GL-1 rated? i.e. the following....
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...ycle_Oils.aspx

This the Mobil 1 V-twin oil, which is very good, but even this data sheet doesn't claim a GL-1 rating. They actually state "These products will help provide excellent performance in motorcycle engines that are designed with a common engine/transmission lubrication system or where the engine lubrication system is separate from the transmission system. In the case of the latter, follow the manufacturer's recommendation for the type of fluid to be used in the transmission."

So....

You're on the losing end of this playground fight there dude. I'm going to watch anyway.:food-smiley-007::food-smiley-007:

Nope. Not saying that at all, but AMSOIL's motorcycle oils are also GL-1 rated, and have been tested in FZG gear testing, ASTM D-5182. Just saying, some things are made differently than others, and can perform in different applications.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcf.aspx