Here is one installed on a 26' Redline from Revolution Performance Marine. Interested to see how it goes.:drink:

Edit: Not my boat, got it off a friends page on Facebook...

http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...48218239_n.jpg

Killer killer!!!! What drive did u have on boat before? Speed? HP? Prop?

Thank u Skydog. . Good luck looks killer!!

looks good Phil howz the boat runnin ???:drink::drink:

haha, not my boat. :drink: Just showing a picture.

My boat is running great!! Just winterized it. Always good to finish out a year without breaking ANYTHING all year.

He has not run the boat yet

Sweet when u have more info love to know.
Thank u

Boat Check
IMCO Check
Hering Propeller Check
Water Check
have nor run it yet?? didnt you say befor that they had gained 8 mph with this boat and drive?

First of all, the 8 MPH gain was on the IMCO Hallett not on the boat pictured above.

We ran the boat last Friday with the original IMCO SC drive and it ran a solid 113 MPH. We then switched the drive out and the rest follows:

We have run it. Originally we did not have sufficient water pressure so we installed a pickup in the starboard sponson. That takes a little tweaking to get the pressure where you want it. Now we are back to the water today to test a couple of changes. It is like any new drive, there is a learning curve to it. IMCO and Herring are being very helpful during the process. The other issue that we have is that we are doing all of the testing along with building customer boats with deadlines so we have to sneak out when we can.

Initial testing has been very good but we have to work through a couple of things before we can say much more. Every new drive, whether it be Merc, Arneson, X-Power, etc. has its own quirks that have to be understood and addressed so this is nothing new. One thing that people must understand is that this is only the second boat that this drive has been installed on. On top of that it is a surface drive on a single engine cat which makes it all the more difficult to dial in but that is a huge market for this drive IMO.

The pictures that have been posted were posted without my knowledge and before we were really ready to discuss the testing. I sent them to a couple of customers that are interested in the drive but neglected to ask them to keep it under wraps so it is entirely my fault.

I will keep everyone posted as to the final outcome of our testing with pictures, video, etc. as well.

Steve Tripp
Revolution Performance Marine

Nice, good luck with it, i look forward to the results :)..I'll also keep an eye on fb as well...

Any new news to report on the -4 SCX?

which boat you gunna set these up on?

Yes I am hopping the same my boat is dieing to run a higher x and a #6!!!! Fastttttt

I am actually considering trying one on a single vee. With my current prop shaft height, going to a -4 would put me maybe .25" under the pad, if not dead even when at neutral trim. The boat runs very flat and doesnt need trim to get up the pad as it is. It would be nice to pick up a few mph, even 2 would be nice, as it would mean having a drive that I couldnt break and it would put me over that certain century milestone again...:drink:

If i dont get the house with a dock that I am looking at, I may have to order one of these bad boys.

Phlim,
Did you see the article some years ago in one of the magazines(powereboat or Hot Boat) about the rerig of a lavey with an NXT? I am not sure, but I think they ended up with a best prop dimension near the level bottom. I think the IMCO and NXT drag etc.. will be somewhat similar.

I did not see that article, but the level would be whatever it ends up being. I currently run a -1 Imco SC with the SC lower, and at neutral trim it is right around 3" below the pad, so reason would have it that going to the -4 SCX would put it even. Of course the much larger props thta I could run would help to keep the prop in the water some. I can not take it up any higher on the transom, I have an ITS box, and it sits about as high as it can go before it encounters the rounded corner of the molded in swim platform.

I would be something to try, just worry about spending $16k plus props and having a boat that doesnt run as well as it does now.

The article was about the lavey race boat and their desire to have a bravo alternative that would not lose speed. They tried lots of different set ups and ended up near level with the bottom. I can't remember what prop worked. They ended up just better than their original set up. Think this was the initial work Merc. used to change the skegs of the NSX to allow them to handle well as a single.

An NXT would be cool, but super expensive and requiring a total rerig of the boat.

I would not be happy to end up with the exact same performance, even if it did give me a near bulletproof drive. With somewhere in the $20k range spent on drive and props, it better pick up some speed.:drink:

I am looking into it.

I was not recommending the NXt, I think the shape and size of the bullet is similar to the SCX. Not exactly the same, but I believe that a set up that would work for the NXT would be close to what would work for the SCX. Or at least a good starting point.

has there bean any testing on the 26 redline with the SCX-4 yet ?

Does the SCX use lower gears from the NXT or is it their own gear set design?

Nope, uses SCX lower gears. All their own design.

Anymore info on these drive? Plan on putting them on my 388 slingshot with #6 props. Should have them on by the first of the year.

Looks amazing!

Has anyone pulled the trigger on a pair of SCX-4's for V-bottom twin set-up? Would like to try a pair in a 38 with 750 HP!!!! Pictures & numbers from the current tests would be great. Next question, what would be prop size? Keeping my fingers crossed that this will be the ticket!!!!

sent my SCX uppers back to imco to get recased to the SCX -4 uppers and getting the dedicated lowers also to run # 6 cleavers should be interesting.

also still wondering how that 26 redline worked out , no response ?

Here's a direct quote from Revolution Performance Marine's Facebook page regarding their testing of the new SCX4 on a 26 Redline:

Well after some "Tuning, and testing" it's official, the new IMCO SCX 4 is an awesome drive, boat jumps right up on plane, boat handles like a dream, no real speed gain on the test boat, but no loss either, drive will be much more suited for higher horsepower boats...Jeff's is ordered so we will see...

That sucks they had no speed gain. Even though I am a fan of the arneson I have a lot of respect for the SCX4 and I am glad it came to the market.

Looking forward to more test and tunes shared in the future!

When I called Imco to order replacement steering lines I was told its about 17k plus shipping for the -4 SCX. I think for 3k more you can go Arneson, which is faster, looks bad a$$, and throws a mean roost....
However the SCX is an easy bolt up...

So I guess you have to weigh out the options. Both are major set up changes and may suck.

It's right about 37K for two -4SCX with props, helmets, reservoirs, tie bar, through hulls and strainers. 60K with Arnesons and a boatload more work.
I'm seriously contemplating the -4's vs just a -2 but waiting for feedback on speed and planing ability.
With the Arnesons you have to pull the engines, add through hulls, change the helm and rams but I'm pretty sure you will pick up speed and reliability. I wish they could put a kit together that didn't require new trim and steering components. It could be a bit less expensive??? It also looks cool with the 6 props and roost.
The SCX-4's'll look cool too because they have the #6 props also. Unsure about roost.
It looks like the Arnesons will put the prop a couple inches higher than the SCX's and a bit further back because of the extention boxes. When's the Longshaft -6SCX coming out?

You're about 20k off on your arneson price. Money wise they are close, but im sure I could sell my extension boxes imco transom assemblies and teague drives. Oh yeah but Id have to fill the notches.

Arnesons are MAX 24k each side, including everything like tie bar, standoff box, new hydraulic steering, new transom assembly, new trim ram cylinders, etc.

MINUS the sale of your current unused parts

SCX4 + a standoff box, tie bar, heavy duty gimbal ring, helmet, resivoir, etc actually cost more than a Arneson.

only gain with the scx4 in my book is slightly easier install, but not much.

If you can install a scx4 you can install a arneson.

Still no info on the V bottom, twin set up!!! Good feedback on the single!!!! Nothing is perfect, butt, the new IMCO -4 sounds like it is a solid fix for the Bravo blues!!!! Time to call Dave @ IMCO!!!

Rob, we have a few of the 38' Fountains in your same vintage with Arneson Surface Drives on them will great results.



Our #7M Kits are what we have for your application. These cost $23,125.00 each complete. The kits come with a one year warranty as you noted as there is little to go wrong with them none are breaking as soon as the one year mark is gone.


Your boat should see a 10 mph increase in mid range speed and close to 10 mph increase in top speed as well.


The #7M Kits include all the necessary components needed to install the #7M Kits onto the boat. All the mounting bolts, backing plates, studs, nuts washers, helm unit, motor mount, bell-housing, drive plate, hydraulic steering and trim cylinders, trim pump, standoff box and such are included in the kit.


What you will need are:


External water pickup
Thru Transom exhaust
Internal hydraulic hoses, and reservoir to connect your "power steering pumps" to the helm and back to the Arnesons.
Propellers
Indicator cables, indicators, trim switches


Note:


Your helm will not work with the Arneson steering cylinders and we include the correct helm unit for the Arnesons in the kit.
Your indicators will work with the Arneson. Your indicator cables might be long enough to work with the Arnesons also. We include the cable grip parts to hold the indicator cable to the cylinders.
The Arnesons have not water pumps, pickups nor exhaust system in them


The Arnesons use a Mercury #6 Speedmaster style propeller. Hering has an exchange program themselves for their customers. We can recommend a propeller that will be fairly close to what you are going to need for your application.


Where are you located?


As to why boat builders use Merc rather than Arneson, it comes down to a complete package that Mercury supplies to the boat builders as we do not have an engine package only an out-drive package. The boat builders have to source two separate items, engine and drive whereas with Mercury they get everything from one source. Mercury also has historically financed the purchase of their engine packages to the boat builders which Arneson does not do.


Please advise,


Rik Wimp
Arneson Industries
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Seriously, I've looked into it.
Because I have Silent Choice, add new exhaust. What's that, $2K for a staggered set up? Process: make it in PVC, ship$ it (oversize probably$) to someone to make out of stainless and polish it and ship???it back. Install it and cuss because it doesn't fit and do it again.
"IF" my cables work. When has any boat mod ever "just worked"? Same with PS hoses and the helm/wheel.

Tie bar is needed on Arneson.
Tie bar needs to be shortened on SCX. Much cheaper
Transom PU's and strainers are the same
Props are the same

Labor:
Pull drives and helmets(already have IMCO rings), mount reservoir bottle and hook to existing line, install through hulls and strainers, install drives and fill.
VS
Pull engines, transom assemblies, helm, steering rams, cables?, hoses?, exhaust. Install through hulls, trans, drive, steering, etc. Now possibly have to glass the pad(I can't recall what Rik said, but I think so).
What'd I miss? Tons I'm sure but you get the basic idea

I can do all the labor but for someone that couldn't it's probably $5K more to install an Arneson.

Arneson $23125, exhaust $2K, through hull and misc. $2K times 2 = $54250+Props(6 Bl)=$65K+

SCX4 MSRP$15220, helmet FREE last month, reservoir 335, box not necessary, through hull and misc $500 times 2 = $32110+Props(5 Bl)=$40500+

I would absolutely LOVE to install the Arnesons. They're more efficient. They've been tried. They work. They HAVE a WARRANTY!!!!

SCX4 is more cost effective IF it works. -4 hasn't been tried on my boat. There is NO WARRANTY.

As for selling off old parts. How many old parts do we all have laying around that we "could" sell. Some are easy, like the drives and props, but the exhaust, steering, bell housings, couplers, etc have about a 1/4 to no value so we just keep them until forced to sell by the little woman.

That statement is entirely incorrect. I could probably have an SCX4 installed in about 2 hours, and only that long because I would have to change out my helmet. Bolting the drive on takes 5 minutes.

With the Arneson bravo conversion kit, and assuming that I didnt need to rework my transom (which i would) because my engine is too high, The skill level necessary to install all new steering, pull the motor and install the bellhousing and transmission, then install everything else, it is not as simple as just bolting on a drive. How many hours would that take?

I am not saying that I wouldnt rather have an arneson, because I would, but the amount of work involved for the arneson vs scx4 is not even close.

I think Rik needs to bust in here with a 50% off xmas sale and I'll order some up and let you know how the install goes!!!!

It will be much easier for me. My motors are on drive lines and my steering is on the imco transom assemblies. My notches would be the biggest problem for me

SCX for Redline 26
 

my rpm is nearly finished and is in the rigging stage. steve ordered the scx-4 for my boat and graciously agreed to test is on his boat first. with encouraging results on his boat, it will be installed on mine. i also have an N/A big block like his, only 33 cubes bigger. he should be testing it on my boat within a few weeks if all goes well. the engine is being built by Precsion Marine in LA and should be on the dyno soon. it is a 598 with AFR heads and EFI.

since my boat is so close, there will not be any more testing on steve's boat. results will be posted once my boat is sorted out.

i might have gotten by with an XR, but i have broken so many that i wanted some reliability. if the speed is equal to an XR, i will be satisfied.

Why are the arnesons so expensive. If they are really 60k, why would anyone buy them, because the mercury 6 dry is roughly that same price. Just saying

Its way more to convert to 6s. tons more work too

#6 weighs more and has more parasitic HP loss. I think the #6 can take more HP than the Arneson/Bravo conversion so if that's the case you'd run a #6 or standard Arneson, both of which would take considerable rerigging. At that point I'd add those costs up and I think the Arneson is less expensive and the way to go.