Has anybody broke outer transom plate?
 

Has anybody broke a outer transom plate from power or speed.Im debating if i need the imco outer plate.They say the lower swivel pin area is 40% percent stronger then a bravo.For $1400 i would like to know if it is money well spent.This is for 1200-1300 hp 22ft cat. Im running a scx drive and imco gimbal ring.

I'd like to hear some opinions on this as well. I think this might be my weakest link.

fuelcustoms...glad to hear you are running the imco gimbal ring. I am a believer that if you are upgrading drives you might as well upgrade the ring. But I have a friend that just ordered a pair of the SCX4 and he does not think he needs the ring. Plus claims Imco told him he did not need the ring, or a new tie bar. IMO they are just trying to make a sale and let him buy piece by piece later, so they do not overwhelm him with price up front (good sales tactic though, not knocking them for that!)

I am a huge fan of the standard SCX. So overall not a negative comment on Imco, just sharing what I have.

SkiDoc, I think I remember you recommending the HD IMCO gimbal ring in another thread also.:drink:

With that, I also am curious on the Transom plate!

I would think as light as a 22' boat is you would probably be fine with out it. I can't really recall reading on here of anyone breaking them in that area. Then again with the stronger gimble ring that's probably going to be the next weakest point. One thing you better have is full hydraulic external steering.

I have broke one in organized racing and once in testing. The quality of the casting quality plays a big role in if, how and when they fail. We now run the IMCO gimbal.
Steve

One thing to be aware of, is that if a ring fails on a 1200 hp 22 ft. cat going wot, you're in trouble, it's "cheap" insurance. Small cat or not, you are still putting much more power through that drive than it can handle. Gears, shafts and other parts will most likely go bust before the ring.

I broke a standard merc gimbal ring at 83mph.. Not fun. Closed head injuries are not good!!
My gimble ring broke at the wear pad area. I put a HP gimble ring kit on and never had another proplem.
Now I am running the Imco gimble with the Merc transom assy, followed by an SCX. For the reasons A. O. suggests above.

I had to replace my outer transom assembly last winter as at the end of the season I notice a crack in the lower pin clevis area. Not sure when it happened. I put another merc transom assembly on. I have never hit anything so it must have cracked from launching and/or rough landings. I've had a few over the years.

I know there is a difference in the bravo gimbal ring and hp gimbal ring .Is there a difference in strength in the outer transom plates between the bravo and hp.

Did it break on that lower swivel fork?

QUOTE=smiklos@sunprint;3593344]I have broke one in organized racing and once in testing. The quality of the casting quality plays a big role in if, how and when they fail. We now run the IMCO gimbal.
Steve[/QUOTE]

They use the same outer transom assembly (gimbal housing). All B1,2,3,X's,XR's,Sportmaster,XZ,HP use the same one 43881.

[/QUOTE]


The first one did the second one at the top.
Steve

Steve,
How much stronger do you think the Imco is? The SCX is quite a bit heavier and with the 6 props lots of load.

I feel racing SVL we have done things that would break a hp unit. If you watch this video you can see us slide at 80 with drive 1" below bottom. I have no real data but I can tell you it is not wearing at the same rate a hp would. The 6 props is probaby a whole other world. I have a 32 skater with Imco gimbals and SC drives Hering props.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8NjP...fbAUAAAAAAAAAA

this makes me wonder how much stress the steering rams are
putting on it when they are mounted to the outer plate.

On our SVL we are not using IMCO steering, the rams are transom mounted WPm. The Skater is using the Imco rams off the Gimbal housing.
Steve

At X Power Drive we now offer a Stainless X Power Drive Gimbal ring that replaces both the bravo HP and the Emco ring. It is over 300% stronger than both standard units, and we warranty it for life... When have you ever heard that in the boating industry before. We have found that the gimbal ring failure is the major offender on the bravo transom assembly. When they fail it is very dangerous, we have had customers with the HP ring experience a failure and all 4 people in the boat were ejected at 85mph. Luckily all were ok but it prompted us to manufacture something that would be almost impossible to break. Give us a call anytime and we can offer assistance to help you out.

X Power Drive
805-320-5631

http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...alringinfo.jpg

http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...alringback.jpg

http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...ringonboat.jpg

I have experienced a gimbal ring failure open cockpit in the 80+ mph range. Not something you want to try at home!
Nice looking part Bill.
Steve

Bill(Bob)Auberlen, Any plans to make a transom? Looks like you are using the Merc. with the Stainless Gimbal.

Your right on. The transom would be the next item to build. First we built the drive, that was the major problem, then came the stainless gimbal ring, now comes the entire transom assembly. We are trying to come up with really innovative ideas, but we become kind of snow blind when you are the same engineers looking at the same projects, and it would be neat to have a new perspective. Any thoughts on what you would really love to see in a transom assembly. Example: Lightweight, titanium, carbon, integrated exhaust, integrated steering, integrated trim, low price, paint color or raw finish, easy serviceability, easy drive removal. How much would you be willing to pay etc. I understand all of the above but you can't have an entire carbon lightweight assembly for cheap, the two can't go hand and hand. Let me know your thoughts.

For me it would strength and low cost.Even if you had to increase weight by 20 to 30 %.It still wouldnt be enough to matter in my eyes.The service would be nice but would not determind if I buy it our not.I would just want something that will not break no matter finish or material.just my 2cents.

Very interesting. I really appreciate your input. What do you think the price point should be for a bullet proof gimbal assembly.

I would like something closer to imco pricing.To be honest i love you products but way out of my price range.I got to admit im probably the minority because i dont make the money most people do in this website. Without getting to personal i make upper middle class money and own a small 22ft but with 1200-1300hp turbo efi engine.The money was the reason going with imco gimbal ring and scx drive.I know im not your target clientele but maybe you could come up with a sportsman series for people like me and pro series for the wealthy guys

1200 to 1300 hp on a 22 ft boat, now that must be exciting. Thanks for your help.

I would think that the weight reduction of course would be nice but low on my priority list.
I think the ability to add steering wings would be mandatory for wide acceptance.
Access for the swivel pin nut from the outside with a plate would be easy and probably a deal maker for you.
A slick way to mount a potentiometer for the new wireless trim guages would be nice.
Corrosion is a huge problem with transoms, gimbals, if that could be improved, would be a plus.
The trim lines should connect to male fittings on the outside of the transom and there should be a passage to the inner part of transom where there would be a male fitting that the line would go to the trim pump. Steering could be the same way.
Got to be a better way than the the fiber bushings.
Of course, the swivel pin stainless.
Bigger water intake passage for those who run through the transom.
I know cost for the redesign would be big, but I agree that Imco's price point would be close to where you would need to be to have wide appeal.
A way to make a transom adjustable(jack plate) would change the world, but it's beyond my imagination as to how you'd do it. Do this and you can charge big bucks.......
I'm glad your thinking about it, good luck

The adjustable X dimension design is already finished. 90% of what you recommended is there, but you make a few good points. When you say wings what exactly do you mean, if the assembly has integrated steering do you still need the wings. In the design we have just over 2.25 inches of X dimension adjustability. Keep em coming, as soon we will go into production and it much more difficult to change at that point.

Won't need "wings" with integrated steering. But might be a cost savings for boats already rigged with such steering systems. Sounds great, I look forward to having the opportunity to use that equipment. Do you know about when they will come to market?

No talk of the HP gimbal helmet failure yet on this thread so I thought I'd chime in.

While trying to burn the last of my gas right before pulling my boat last Oct, I broke my port drive helmet/bellhousing right at the hidge pins. I was pulling around 5000rpm(85ish) and boom.. It didnt disrupt the boats attitude, thankfully.

Im not sure if the XR input yoke broke first, it showed signs of maybe being cracked, or the dropping of drive alignment caused the u-joint assm to blow up?? All I know is I have some carnage.

Planning on new IMCO rings and helments for 2012.

Are the rings breaking before the helmets? the helmets seem a weaker link then the rings?

LE

x2 I would think the helmet would be the first to go, thats where the weight and all the power is directly bolted to

If interested i have a complete imco unit

Not trying to hijack but trying to pass on a good deal

here pal...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...9516_22_44.jpg

Good times...:poopoo:

Fix that chit yo!!

So what let go, first? Did the gimble break or did the pinion get forced out the front of the drive and take out the helmet? Or did the helmet break due to some side loading??
Sure looks like a disaster..
I had one break, but the gimbal pad broke then the helmet was ripped off.. Not a pretty site.

Must have been a log in the bay......:)

Did you see any marks on the bullet? Either way.. not fun..

Or did the two itty bitty screws come out of the hinge pin?

Gimbal ring is intact, except for the sheared bolts holding in the hidge pin, which looks like it occured when the helmet broke.

Im not sure if the helmet broke first then caused the u-joint assm to loose alignment and blow up.. Or the yoke shaft broke and wound up the u-joint assm, and blew the helmet apart and off the ring.

I'm leaning toward the helmet breaking. But, when the input yoke shaft broke it left 1 u-joint cup on the shaft and 1 in the carnage. Looking at the shear point you can see 2/3rds of the sheared area looked fresh, but 1/3rd or so looked aged??

So its hard to say which came first, the chicken or the egg..

The drive was intact, short of the input shaft being hard to turn. After examination, one of the driven gears brass threaded clutch rings was loose on the gear, it spun off at least 1 full rotation binding up the shifter fork. I was thinking that when the drive fell out of alignment it might of tried to shift into reverse, causing the gear issue and probably ruining my clutch. The clutch shaft lower bearing race is damaged, but its not related. Thats another thread..

LE

Screws were sheared off, there still threaded into the ring.

LE