RMPRam- Thank you for the help. I'm just stuck in between a rock and a hard spot because I want the boat to be reliable but on the other the owner does not want to have to remove the back seat so we are able to move the engine further forward because of the extra space needed for the transmission. We will have to go for one or the other lol Thank you for all the help guys.

Gregga, what kind of boat is it? How will it like the extra weight? Is there enough height on the transom to mount it and get the X you want?

You can always use an extension box to gain some room.

What kind of power do you plan on running?

If you're not going over 850hp I would consider a BMax or IMCO for weight savings. If the boat is small, adding a #5 or #3A may take you backwards.

We all want a #6 but at the end of the day I know people who have broken them also. :eekdrop:

I think you just need to be "realistic" with your expectations in whatever you decide to upgrade too.

RMP-or anyone who knows what is the correct order of fiber washers, washers, the curly spring looking thing and bolt. I am trying to bolt my transmission up to the transom assembly. I have a velvet drive transmision and number III drive. I also have a post on here asking this and a diagram was posted. In the diagram they only use one spring. I called and talked to a guy and he said each side should have 2 springs, what is the correct number and where do they go? Do they go just on top of the transmision mount or on top of and between transmision and transom assembly mount or just between them? Thanks for any help, because I am lost.

Anyone?

I believe its one spring per side. I also believe, first you lay the fiber washer on, then the spring, then another fiber washer. Then on top of the ear of trans, the metal washer and bolt. Bottom side of transom ear, is metal washer and nut.

In the past, ive used clear silicone, to hold the fiber washer in place. Once the fiber washer is glued to the transom plate ear, the spring (actually a lockwasher), will sit in place, held by the bottom fiber washer.

Thanks, any idea on how tight they should be torqued down?

I have a Cigarette 38 Hawk Edition 1988 with 2pcs 540 Hawk Edition engines and SSM III this boat is still orginal and it was only this build from factory with this setup and paint. Now I change my drive ratio to 1:62 (other drives) from 1:50 and run now 16 x26 Cleaver props but need to get higher in pitch is somebody with some same setup run and what pitch ?

CBB540

Generally a boat with a bravo in it is built around bravo spacing...and power. You want to run the power that will hurt any bravo derivitive,
​​​​​ you will also hurt the hull. I had a friend with about 900 hp in his Baja. It was VERY fast. Operative word here WAS. the hull split open. You want that kind of power, you want a hull designed for that kind of power.

I hate that crappy spring/fiber washer setup. I trapped mine top and bottom of of bellhousing mount ears with a thick large dia. shim and one removable shim to get height right. Had to use a shim on top rubber motor mount / bushing to get it even. then shims between bracket and bellhousing ears. Same on top. Those double wound lock washers are a joke. You know if the rubber tears the is nothing to keep them from lifting and doing a twist on you. The rubber engine mounts are very tough and the press fit is extreme, but they are not trapped. When you compress the spring it is about .270 thousands thick . Just a thought to consider