knife edge skeg ??
 

after installing my nosecone should I knife edge the skeg or leave it alone ?

I look at it this way. If you knife edge it and hit a stick, can, or bottle it will nick easier.

if you look at a lower that has been done by wilson performance,you will see how to properly knife edge a lower.they come to a sharp point.

so knife edging the skeg wouldn't be a bad idea ?

fixx
 

mine is,,no more prop slip...dont just v it,,you have to go back a few inches and blend it forward..if you nic it thats what they make tig welders for..

What was the difference in slip before and after. Did you gain any speed or something else?

it was on a older volvo..was like 20% before ..also back cut the skeg to load the prop with more water..

That is not an option since I'm located in Sweden... :whistle:

But anyway - who/what's Wilson?

This is a lower done by Wilson. The skeg looks knife edged:
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/x...oblueprint.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/x...blueprint2.jpg

Is that a -3 IMCO? Do you know if the Wilson adjustments made any difference? I'm guessing the lower was for a 22 Donzi?

I do not know the application of that lower. Wilson is the real deal. They will get you a couple MPH and have a quick turn around time. They won't take shipment of your lower until they are ready to work on it and ship it right back. I know this from talking with them. I used those photos to modify my -2" Imco, mainly the water inlet, but I also knife edged the skeg and tried to duplicate those pics. I did not see the speed gain but I did stop my cavitation damage by moving the water inlet and reshaping the bullet a little. This is what I did to mine but I've since modified the bullet and intake a little more. Notice that the entire case is sharpened and not just the skeg.
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/x...s797Medium.jpg
http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/x...s796Medium.jpg