What are my odds?
#12
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From: Pekin, IL
#14
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From: Pekin, IL
You say "your are not going to find a more efficiant hull out there." BUT the damn thing is so heavy and hard to get on plain, that is my main reasoning for putting the supercharger on it.
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From: Pekin, IL
#16
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From: Oneida Lake NY
Just don't nail it out of the hole, you should no longer need to go wide open to get it up.
#17
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From: Oneida Lake NY
This may be a dumb question but, Once again "wet hull" is mentioned. Can someone explain this term? And I have been asking around the area here for someone to go through my lower unit before I re-install it, but not having much luck. Im thinking about just doing an inspection myself for obvious problems like gear teeth conditions but I ve never had one apart before. I feel like I am mechanically inclined enough, but just a visual inspection prob. not enough, is it?? Im guessing there are clearances that would need check too HUH?!
#18
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From: Pekin, IL
Exactly.....which makes your roots blower even better for the application. Your increased tq at low rpm from the blower will get you on plane twice as fast. It is amazing how much a blower helps a single engine boat plane.
Just don't nail it out of the hole, you should no longer need to go wide open to get it up.
Just don't nail it out of the hole, you should no longer need to go wide open to get it up.
#19
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Yep, the upper is the weak link. I have the same boat as you, 29 fever with the single motor. With the motor upgrades done to the 575SCi I can get on plane with only 1/3 throttle.
A lot of guys break the drive around 3000-3500 rpm’s with it trimmed down and plowing in rough water (wet hull). Around that rpm is where the torque peaks and is hard on a drive.
Try All American Drive Service here in Michigan. Good guy to work with. Also Mr. Gadgets is the man.
It’s no fun standing on the beach or being towed in. Put extra cash aside for an SCX or Bmax first and you will be at ease without the feeling like you are going to break a drive every time you go out. “Been there done that”.
That’s what I should have done before I spent over 10k on rebuilding 3 Bravo’s.
The Bmax is almost a direct bolt on. Did mine in a weekend. The inside parts in the lower is the same as a Bravo but I never had any problems with the lowers. Cryo gears from the Bravo Shop and a good setup and you should not have any lower issues.
A lot of guys break the drive around 3000-3500 rpm’s with it trimmed down and plowing in rough water (wet hull). Around that rpm is where the torque peaks and is hard on a drive.
Try All American Drive Service here in Michigan. Good guy to work with. Also Mr. Gadgets is the man.
It’s no fun standing on the beach or being towed in. Put extra cash aside for an SCX or Bmax first and you will be at ease without the feeling like you are going to break a drive every time you go out. “Been there done that”.
That’s what I should have done before I spent over 10k on rebuilding 3 Bravo’s.
The Bmax is almost a direct bolt on. Did mine in a weekend. The inside parts in the lower is the same as a Bravo but I never had any problems with the lowers. Cryo gears from the Bravo Shop and a good setup and you should not have any lower issues.
#20
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From: Pekin, IL
Yep, the upper is the weak link. I have the same boat as you, 29 fever with the single motor. With the motor upgrades done to the 575SCi I can get on plane with only 1/3 throttle.
A lot of guys break the drive around 3000-3500 rpm’s with it trimmed down and plowing in rough water (wet hull). Around that rpm is where the torque peaks and is hard on a drive.
Try All American Drive Service here in Michigan. Good guy to work with. Also Mr. Gadgets is the man.
It’s no fun standing on the beach or being towed in. Put extra cash aside for an SCX or Bmax first and you will be at ease without the feeling like you are going to break a drive every time you go out. “Been there done that”.
That’s what I should have done before I spent over 10k on rebuilding 3 Bravo’s.
The Bmax is almost a direct bolt on. Did mine in a weekend. The inside parts in the lower is the same as a Bravo but I never had any problems with the lowers. Cryo gears from the Bravo Shop and a good setup and you should not have any lower issues.
A lot of guys break the drive around 3000-3500 rpm’s with it trimmed down and plowing in rough water (wet hull). Around that rpm is where the torque peaks and is hard on a drive.
Try All American Drive Service here in Michigan. Good guy to work with. Also Mr. Gadgets is the man.
It’s no fun standing on the beach or being towed in. Put extra cash aside for an SCX or Bmax first and you will be at ease without the feeling like you are going to break a drive every time you go out. “Been there done that”.
That’s what I should have done before I spent over 10k on rebuilding 3 Bravo’s.
The Bmax is almost a direct bolt on. Did mine in a weekend. The inside parts in the lower is the same as a Bravo but I never had any problems with the lowers. Cryo gears from the Bravo Shop and a good setup and you should not have any lower issues.


