Educate me on drive showers please
#1
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I am looking for a top cap style drive shower for a bravo. I did all my homework and came to the conclusion of an innovative marine shower but they are out of business. Next I came up with an "its cool" shower by rex and that was shot down. Iv been trying to order one from them for a year and keep getting told that they are out of stock. Yesterday, after trying to order one again, they not only say out of stock but also they don't even know of they will get any this year! Thanks Rex! What would be a good top cap style? I heard billet marine but can't find anything on them.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
#6
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but those Hardin showers don't put the water anywhere it should be. I bought a set and had someone drive my boat as I looked over the back. The water was shooting straight thru the cap and hitting the top of the bell housing. I even called Hardin to discuss my findings and at that time they didn't really care about my findings. I can only hope that they redisigned them to actually work.
The reason for a drive shower is to cool the housing thus cooling the gear oil. I have tried many gear oils over the years and have found one that I think is the best out there. How do I know ??? Because it comes out of the drive almost the same color as it went in. Cannot say that about any other ones I tried.
The gear oil I run is called NEO 75W90RHD. Expensive stuff but it works. So my point is start with a top notch gear oil that runs cool and keeps the heat down by minimizing friction.
The reason for a drive shower is to cool the housing thus cooling the gear oil. I have tried many gear oils over the years and have found one that I think is the best out there. How do I know ??? Because it comes out of the drive almost the same color as it went in. Cannot say that about any other ones I tried.
The gear oil I run is called NEO 75W90RHD. Expensive stuff but it works. So my point is start with a top notch gear oil that runs cool and keeps the heat down by minimizing friction.
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#8
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Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but those Hardin showers don't put the water anywhere it should be. I bought a set and had someone drive my boat as I looked over the back. The water was shooting straight thru the cap and hitting the top of the bell housing. I even called Hardin to discuss my findings and at that time they didn't really care about my findings. I can only hope that they redisigned them to actually work.
The reason for a drive shower is to cool the housing thus cooling the gear oil. I have tried many gear oils over the years and have found one that I think is the best out there. How do I know ??? Because it comes out of the drive almost the same color as it went in. Cannot say that about any other ones I tried.
The gear oil I run is called NEO 75W90RHD. Expensive stuff but it works. So my point is start with a top notch gear oil that runs cool and keeps the heat down by minimizing friction.
The reason for a drive shower is to cool the housing thus cooling the gear oil. I have tried many gear oils over the years and have found one that I think is the best out there. How do I know ??? Because it comes out of the drive almost the same color as it went in. Cannot say that about any other ones I tried.
The gear oil I run is called NEO 75W90RHD. Expensive stuff but it works. So my point is start with a top notch gear oil that runs cool and keeps the heat down by minimizing friction.
The billet cap that I was referring to is an actual cap. It replaces your existing cap and it is beefier and has water running through the actual cap. I haven't shopped much but right now the only one that I see being made is by wags engineering. I think billet marine and someone else use to make it as well!
#9
Yes the Wags cap looks like a nice piece. Pricey but prob worth it in the end for cooling and for strength. The other thing that is important is to switch from bolts to studs to hold any top cap down.
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#10
Also when changing a top cap, it is important to measure the depth and flatness of the race seat, to make sure you don't change the setup when adding the new cap, and compare it to the depth on the old cap.




