Toolman62

That was deffinately the plan for the valve train. Everything new and as a matching kit. Exhaust will probably be from Dana Marine.

Toolman62

Ran a few tests last night and this is the results:
Compression test
1 120 2 160
3 150 4 145
5 150 6 150
7 150 8 145

Leak Down: E=exhaust, I= intake, C=crank case
1 14% C 2 20% E
3 18% E,C 4 20% E
5 64% E,C,I 6 17% E
7 20% E,C 8 40% E

I have blown a HEAD GASKET on the Port side (plus a little milk shake inside the lifter valley). I'll pull the heads tonight and have them gone through. I think I'm going to freshen up the block and check everything (crank journals mic'd and inspected for wear) before installing new bearings. I'll see what else I may need or want to do after that.

Toolman62

Pulled the block apart and found a couple cylinders out of round and out of spec. #1 .003 wear and .005 out of round, #5 .003 wear and .004 out of round, #7 .003wear and .003 out of round. Some cylinder walls on the port side were glazed really bad and appear that on at least 3 cylinders the rings never seated.
Pressure checking the block now to make sure there is nothing wrong with it before going any further. Crank shaft is scared on several mains and several rods so it will get reconditioned and ground. I don't think it would have made it very much more without spinning a bearing.
Definitely had water in the oil so now the hunt for that begins (pressure test block, heads, and oil cooler), the head gaskets didn't look too bad but they were the paper with steel bands and I don't really care for that style, I prefer all metal head gaskets sprayed with copper coat.
All injectors go out tomorrow for inspection, cleaning, and rebuild (if necessary). Should be ordering the rebuild kit for the block (after final inspection to get correct sizes for bearings, pistons, and rings) and the new cam kit this week.

Toolman62

We pressure tested the block today, nothing showed up as any trouble spots. Started the honing process to find out what size we would have to go to for new pistons. That's when the ugliness showed its face. The block has a crack in the #1 cylinder from the bore to the water jacket. Then another one showed up between the two center water passages.
I'm going to scrap the block and purchase a long block from Jasper and put this thing back together for the upcoming season.
I'm really interested to see how it runs with all cylinders producing HP. The hull really feels slippery and connected to the water. Looking forward to a great summer.

Randy Nielsen

iTrader: (4)

Just my opinion because I did the same thing but I would run as far away from jasper as you can. I bought an engine from them & would swear to the big guy that drunk monkeys could do better work. After my ordeal with them I wouldn't buy lawn mower parts from them let alone anything for a boat. Good luck, Randy

Toolman62

Well I got the Long Block and trim tab guage kit this week. Now all the assembly, plating, and painting begins. My son also picked up a 28' 1988 Scarab this winter so add another project to the list. Going to be a busy next couple of months getting things ready for spring.

Toolman62

I machined a fender holder from some aluminum. I'm going to mount them in the engine compartment of my Baja and my sons Scarab.






I'll use Stainless hardware to assemble when I get ready to install and lag bolt to the floor

Griff

Nice work!!!

motor

iTrader: (3)

I agree on this "Run from Jasper" .Not what you'd call high quality engines.. I get quality machine work from a local shop that used to be a major force in prostock drags. My only point about who I use, is that most areas have quality machine shops if you check around..

So2fast5u

Yup that crasper engine will be iffy at best. They are massed produced as fast as they can and are made to last like 50,000 miles on a road car and that's it. Spark plugs would have showed the cracked block as they would have been white if the crack was very bad i would think. Hope it all goes well, won't be long till the lakes turn from solid to liquid!!