Speedmaster to TRS...
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Speedmaster to TRS...
Posted this on another site as well. But looking for a little help.... I recently purchased an old classic race boat (32 Cary/ Beep Beep), that was originally rigged full stagger with Speedmaster #3's. My original intent was to fill in the transom and re-key for two TRS drives with big blocks that I currently own. The first issue that came up is that the TRS transom plates are massive compared what was on the boat, and will not allow tight enough spacing between them to take advantage of being able to move the motors in.
In looking at the job the transom plates for TRS drives need to do... which is not much other than mounting and securing the drives, does anyone see any reason I can't just machine my own plates from 1/2" or 3/4" billet aluminum?
I'm really not into blowing a wad on finding some decent Speedmasters since I already own a good set of TRS drives, and I really don't want to side by side the motor setup just so the drives fit. Any alternatives, comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
In looking at the job the transom plates for TRS drives need to do... which is not much other than mounting and securing the drives, does anyone see any reason I can't just machine my own plates from 1/2" or 3/4" billet aluminum?
I'm really not into blowing a wad on finding some decent Speedmasters since I already own a good set of TRS drives, and I really don't want to side by side the motor setup just so the drives fit. Any alternatives, comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
#2
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if your running a full stager set up and not worrying about your rear trans mount by using front and rear motor plates for mounts then there is no reason you cant use aluminum plates for the inside. the only thing your gonna have to do is remote mount the oil res for the drives since they are built into the gimble
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520653[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520653[/ATTACH]
#4
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I took the TRS gasket and traced it on to a piece of 1/2" aluminum and cut out , took 2 pieces of bar stock and made the mounts , mocked up and tacked the bar stock and marked fro holes didn't need the tiller arm the wet exhaust or oil tank ..it's in a box in storage and I don't have a pic , but I may make another one and just use 1/4" plate and make gussets for the tailstock mount since I have front and rear shipping style mounts now...
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Ok guys appreciate the information. So I was leaning in the right direction after all. When a drag racer/ motorcycle builder gets into boats he's a bit out of his element, so I'm treading lightly here to try and avoid doing something stupid. When I was considering breaking out the plasma cutter/ welder for a boat, well I started to doubt myself.
However
I have some telling me I really need to break down and get some Speedmasters to put back on it. I was just wanting to save that money for other areas of the project since we already had the TRS's.. And a suggestion to just put a pair of stout Bravos on it since it's only a 32 footer. Decisions decisions.
However
I have some telling me I really need to break down and get some Speedmasters to put back on it. I was just wanting to save that money for other areas of the project since we already had the TRS's.. And a suggestion to just put a pair of stout Bravos on it since it's only a 32 footer. Decisions decisions.
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F bravos on that boat , you want transmissions , you start messing with center of gravity when you push motors back. look here in classifieds for some 3A's, or call Riggs Marine , Craig Collabella , TNT Marine parts for the older drives out there but are getting depleted I'm sure
even go with Konrad Drive http://www.konradmarine.com/9405.html contact Biggus on the board here , I believe he still works for them
even go with Konrad Drive http://www.konradmarine.com/9405.html contact Biggus on the board here , I believe he still works for them
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