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-   -   neo oil results w 1000 hp in front of Bravo (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/drives-lower-units/315732-neo-oil-results-w-1000-hp-front-bravo.html)

BUP 07-23-2014 01:40 PM

Probably an Titon oil cooler pump. Also Drew Marine has or had a set up for cooling the oil drive oil most likely the same idea or set up. it also runs thru an spin on oil filter to trap wear metals.

Borgie 07-23-2014 03:01 PM


Originally Posted by BUP (Post 4158558)
Artic, I totally understand and do not blame you for what is working staying with it. Just looking for someone who tear ups drives to see if this oil will be an improvement. A little info. The gear
oil is formulated from a blender who has been in business since the 70's. It is a pure Ester base with a very stout extreme pressure additive package added. Also they tell me it will still hold up well with 20 to 25 % water intrusion. Most only test up to 10 % to maybe 15% of water contamination. They say it was tested at those 20 to 25 % water levels.

Also they tell me improvements to eliminating the pitting that takes place on the gear surfaces using their gear oil . I am going to test it and see if it will decrease gear oil temps and send samples off to be oil analyzed.

Also I know you did or still Cryo and Rem finish your internals of your drive. I will pass this along. Controlled Thermal Processing does a good job and IMO their pricing is good for Cryogenics. Rick does a great job and has good info. 847-651-5511.

Well only a couple of companies that could produce the oil you are speaking of. My guess is Redline(Benicia California circa 1979) oil being g that they were founded in the late 70's and are the only American blender who uses ester (polyol) in large quantity in all of their motor oils. My second guess would be Motul, how've her they are French and were founded in the 1800's. Why not just come out with who it is?

BUP 07-23-2014 03:26 PM

No not either one of these. I knew if anyone would say who it would be - you would have thought of Motul. It is not. I am saying this in a good way because I know you know about this stuff.

Before trying to sell it and or private labeling, I want to see how it holds up and performs. Also I might really sell it as a private label so will not say as of yet.

Its not Maxima or Torco or Klotz either. A personal friend of mine does oil analysis for living and in years past before Nascar had their own in house, he had a few of their contracts. He knows oils and I want to try what he is recommending on marine gear oil formulas.

articfriends 07-23-2014 03:31 PM


Originally Posted by BUP (Post 4158578)
Probably an Titon oil cooler pump. Also Drew Marine has or had a set up for cooling the oil drive oil most likely the same idea or set up. it also runs thru an spin on oil filter to trap wear metals.

I started out using a Tilton gear oil pump which was quickly damaged when I sheared off a vertical shaft and sent metal thru the oil system, after replacing the diaphragm and check valves AND install a inline pre-filter I could still not get it to ever pump so I tossed it and bought a positive displacement gear oil pump similar to this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12v-Diff...-/280782675244

articfriends 07-23-2014 03:33 PM


Originally Posted by Black Baja (Post 4158572)
Smitty, what are you using for a pump to circulate the oil? Are you just pulling it out of the upper, filtering, cooling and returning?

Mr Gadgets started assembling a external pump kit similar to ones that were on the market like drew marine does, I bought some special fittings he had made and installed a suction line that pulls from the oil passage then sends oil back into the upper near the top gears, I found or had all the hoses and pump myself as they are common items but he did the work on figuring out where to drill and tap the drive and provided me with a drawing of where to do it, Smitty

articfriends 07-23-2014 03:36 PM


Originally Posted by mike tkach (Post 4158548)
i totally agree,royal purp is junk and i use amsoil in almost everything i own.

When I finally quit using Royal purples garbage oil and started using Amsoil with some Lucas my lower gear life almost immediately doubled.

articfriends 07-23-2014 03:40 PM


Originally Posted by Keith Atlanta (Post 4158430)
What kind of clearances/backlash are you running on the upper gears (Tight side or Loose side of Merc specs)?


Do you drive the boat like you stole it or like a little girl?

Also, boats runs 95-96 at 6200-6300 with 1.50 gears and labbed 30 pitch 4 blade consistently, will run 99ish using my smallest pulleys and a 32 pitch 4 blade but loses the insane. explosive acceleration from 50 up and breaks parts 10X quicker. I do alot pf lake and river racing , like to run the big dollar boats, sometimes I win and they are in disbelief, sometimes I lose because they have more top end or can handle the rough water better where I have to let off, Smitty

articfriends 07-23-2014 04:37 PM


Originally Posted by payuppsucker (Post 4158420)
Hey Smitty, if you don't mind saying how much have you got tied up in your modified drive and how long have you had that HP in front of it?

I ran stock 2000 bravo for 1 1./2 years in front of 650 hp, when I started turning a 28 pitch I immediately broke the floor out of the upper gears. Thats about when the first xr gears came out, had Max worx install their baddass tower in my upper, put in the xr gears they were modifying at the time along with every other part they sold. Broke the floor out of the xr gears at one point because they were mchined for a different bearing, changed one gear, had a soft upper pinion that started to go away, changed just that, had gears cryoed and iso rem'd and been running the behind 750 then950 then now my cuurrent hp for past 300+ hours, went thru about 10 sets of lower 1.50 gears, broke several billet max worx prop shafts and vert shafts, broke stock upper shaft and shaft, cracked max worx billet upper shaft, last vert shaft I broke cut lower housing almost in half and when I switched lower housings my lower gears have lived and ;lived since then so starting to think that my old housing was tweaked some. I also have spare xr gear based complete drive from max worx that I have ran when this one is apart waiting on parts, I take drive apart every 30-50 hours and inspect/change bearings and lower gears but this time they all looked like new. I have about 10,000 each in both my drives and have prob spent 10,000 in parts over past 12 years on the one I am running now fixing it and freshening it. Some of the young guys who have gotten into boating in past 5 years dont realize that for quite a while there was no alternatives to bravo drives except the bmax and it had shifting problems and case porosity problems back then and still used stock lower gears which was what has always chewed up on my boat anyways, Smitty

buck35 07-23-2014 07:19 PM

Smitty, I for one and I'm sure many others would love to see some pics of your set up. Very ingenious, by the way. Got to be fun smoking people with no idea what you're running.

articfriends 07-23-2014 10:32 PM

7 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by buck35 (Post 4158791)
Smitty, I for one and I'm sure many others would love to see some pics of your set up. Very ingenious, by the way. Got to be fun smoking people with no idea what you're running.

I have posted tons of pics thru the years of when I installed Stellings box, hyd steering , different setups on my motor, custom twin rail setup on my mpi intake, oiling system pisctures. etc if you go back thru some of my old post, here are some pics of past post, Smitty


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