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Bravo basics in gearing

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Old 04-19-2016 | 12:07 PM
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Appreciate the explanation 33. I couldn't find that anywhere.
Matt
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Old 04-20-2016 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Griff
If you added more than about 100-120hp, then the gear change from 1.65 to 1.50 will probably not be enough to reuse the props you have anyway.
It was slightly over-propped to begin with and the gear change calculated out to be a 2pitch difference. I've seen some B1 top halves go for pretty cheap and was entertaining the idea of grabbing one to see how things worked out before going big on a whole new drive. I think that I may end up jusr upgrading the drive and start swapping props to get the right fit.

Roughly and generally speaking, is a B1X drive good for about 650hp on a 27' 5Klb open bow boat, or should I just head straight to the classifieds for an XR drive? From what I've read a billit top cap and plenty of cooling goes a long ways for longevity.

Are there ggod and bad years for bravos? My current unit is a 1996 OL unit.

Last edited by Baja Rooster; 04-20-2016 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 04-20-2016 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by kilo
How do you determine what ratio you are running? I have #6's and would like to learn.
We do it a different way. Turn the prop shaft 10 turns, count the input. Divide input count by propshaft turns (10) , so 15/10 = 1.5, 13.5/10 = 1.35, etc.

Makes it a little easier when the ratios are close.
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Old 04-22-2016 | 07:40 AM
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good idea, thanks
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Old 04-25-2016 | 07:16 AM
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Also the weak link in a bravo is the upper. So a second upper is what is most needed for a spare to get thru the weekend anyway...
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