Port XR won't go into reverse when trimmed up
05-23-2016 | 06:07 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Charter Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,215
Likes: 401
From: Merritt Is. Fl. USA
Port XR won't go into reverse when trimmed up
Port XR won't go into reverse when trimmed up. Trimmed down it is fine. I assume it's the shift cable that runs into the drive needs adjusting.
Thanks,
Dean
Thanks,
Dean
__________________
Everything is for sale @ a certain $$
Everything is for sale @ a certain $$
05-24-2016 | 09:13 AM
#3
Charter Member #601
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,276
Likes: 5
From: Holland, Mi USA.
Trimmed up, how far?? Normal running height or more towards trailer height. Is the motor running when you try and shift it? Bravo must have input shaft turning when you attempt to shift it.
If it is normal trim height and you are idling and it doesn't shift, I would look at the cables to see if there is any binding when it is trimmed..
Look at the adjustments also to make sure that is not a problem. When you say it doesn't go into reverse, does the shift handle go all the way to the reverse position, or will it not move??
Need a few more details..
Dick
If it is normal trim height and you are idling and it doesn't shift, I would look at the cables to see if there is any binding when it is trimmed..
Look at the adjustments also to make sure that is not a problem. When you say it doesn't go into reverse, does the shift handle go all the way to the reverse position, or will it not move??
Need a few more details..
Dick
05-24-2016 | 09:22 AM
#4
Thread Starter
Charter Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,215
Likes: 401
From: Merritt Is. Fl. USA
Mr. G,
Thanks for the reply. My answers are in red text.
Thanks,
Dean
Thanks for the reply. My answers are in red text.
Trimmed up, how far?? Normal running height or more towards trailer height. 1/2 way to trailer height, trying to use a shallow ramp near the house. Is the motor running when you try and shift it? Yes Bravo must have input shaft turning when you attempt to shift it. Agreed
If it is normal trim height and you are idling and it doesn't shift I would look at the cables to see if there is any binding when it is trimmed.. I will look tonight
Look at the adjustments also to make sure that is not a problem. When you say it doesn't go into reverse, does the shift handle go all the way to the reverse position, or will it not move?? Yes it goes full aft and has positive full engagement.
Need a few more details..
Dick
If it is normal trim height and you are idling and it doesn't shift I would look at the cables to see if there is any binding when it is trimmed.. I will look tonight
Look at the adjustments also to make sure that is not a problem. When you say it doesn't go into reverse, does the shift handle go all the way to the reverse position, or will it not move?? Yes it goes full aft and has positive full engagement.
Need a few more details..
Dick
Dean
__________________
Everything is for sale @ a certain $$
Everything is for sale @ a certain $$
05-24-2016 | 11:50 AM
#5
Charter Member #601
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,276
Likes: 5
From: Holland, Mi USA.
Dean,
Look at the cable adjustments. With the drive in neutral you should be able to remove the cotter pin on the cable from the shifter and pull the barrel nut out of the holder.. wiggle the cable to make sure there is no pressure on it ( if it was misadjusted it could have pressure on it in one direction or the other) now attempt to slide the barrel nut back into the holder. If it slips right in then the centering adjustment is good. If not rotate the barrel nut until it slips in the holder and replace the cotter pin.
On the arm the that both cables are connected to, measure from the pivot arm bolt to the stud that is in the slot with the front cable (from shifter) is connected. The center to center distance between those two should be 3". If it is not. Loosen the stud and move it to the correct position. That should give you the proper movement so the drive should shift equally into forward and reverse and not allow the cam to be turned too much and cause it to rub on the bump rings, causing wear and heat.
Hope that helps.. Let us know what you find..
Dick
Look at the cable adjustments. With the drive in neutral you should be able to remove the cotter pin on the cable from the shifter and pull the barrel nut out of the holder.. wiggle the cable to make sure there is no pressure on it ( if it was misadjusted it could have pressure on it in one direction or the other) now attempt to slide the barrel nut back into the holder. If it slips right in then the centering adjustment is good. If not rotate the barrel nut until it slips in the holder and replace the cotter pin.
On the arm the that both cables are connected to, measure from the pivot arm bolt to the stud that is in the slot with the front cable (from shifter) is connected. The center to center distance between those two should be 3". If it is not. Loosen the stud and move it to the correct position. That should give you the proper movement so the drive should shift equally into forward and reverse and not allow the cam to be turned too much and cause it to rub on the bump rings, causing wear and heat.
Hope that helps.. Let us know what you find..
Dick
05-24-2016 | 01:12 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Charter Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,215
Likes: 401
From: Merritt Is. Fl. USA
Dean,
Look at the cable adjustments. With the drive in neutral you should be able to remove the cotter pin on the cable from the shifter and pull the barrel nut out of the holder.. wiggle the cable to make sure there is no pressure on it ( if it was misadjusted it could have pressure on it in one direction or the other) now attempt to slide the barrel nut back into the holder. If it slips right in then the centering adjustment is good. If not rotate the barrel nut until it slips in the holder and replace the cotter pin.
On the arm the that both cables are connected to, measure from the pivot arm bolt to the stud that is in the slot with the front cable (from shifter) is connected. The center to center distance between those two should be 3". If it is not. Loosen the stud and move it to the correct position. That should give you the proper movement so the drive should shift equally into forward and reverse and not allow the cam to be turned too much and cause it to rub on the bump rings, causing wear and heat.
Hope that helps.. Let us know what you find..
Dick
Look at the cable adjustments. With the drive in neutral you should be able to remove the cotter pin on the cable from the shifter and pull the barrel nut out of the holder.. wiggle the cable to make sure there is no pressure on it ( if it was misadjusted it could have pressure on it in one direction or the other) now attempt to slide the barrel nut back into the holder. If it slips right in then the centering adjustment is good. If not rotate the barrel nut until it slips in the holder and replace the cotter pin.
On the arm the that both cables are connected to, measure from the pivot arm bolt to the stud that is in the slot with the front cable (from shifter) is connected. The center to center distance between those two should be 3". If it is not. Loosen the stud and move it to the correct position. That should give you the proper movement so the drive should shift equally into forward and reverse and not allow the cam to be turned too much and cause it to rub on the bump rings, causing wear and heat.
Hope that helps.. Let us know what you find..
Dick
Thanks a bunch, I'll try it tonight if I get home in time. I'll report my findings.
Dean
__________________
Everything is for sale @ a certain $$
Everything is for sale @ a certain $$
