I know it's been disucussed alot on the forums but I have a specific question for the bravo experts. I have been experiencing some lazy forward shifting since last year. we tried adjusting the shift cable (little success at first) but did'nt realy fix. My kids have been playing with the shift lever while the boat was anchored wich did'nt probably help. Well it's getting worst now with 10-15 seconds delay before the boat starts moving. A few weeks ago i did disconnect the shift cable from the engine shift bracket and tested manualy the lower shift cable that goes to the drive and... Same issue. Everything I read about this issue points at the cone clutch but I scratch my head about something. When I shift forward, the boat does'nt move BUT I know the prop is spinning cause I notice water movement back there... I need to understand how the cone clutch works? I tought that the purpose of the clutch was only to generate contact between the forward or reverse gears to the shaft gear... Am I wrong? Is the clutch always at work when the drive is Shifted? If so, a worned cone clutch could slip a little before firmly engaging and That would explain why the prop is not spinning fast enough in my 10-15 sec interval. Am I missing something? I am planning on ordering a cone clutch, a shift cam/yoke assy and while I am there, a lower shift cable. I'l also probably use some valve laping coumpound to remove any apparent glaze on the forward gear cup where the clutch makes contact. Any input would be appreciated

The ridges and slots in the cone allow the lube to escape between the two surfaces (cone and gear) allowing them to lock together. If the cone is not pushed far enough due to wear on the cam of the shift fork, or the lube can't escape quickly it can slow engagement. RH rotation props use the lower gear and the cable must push the shift linkage to engage. The old style cables were flexible up to the ball on the end. The newer ones have a steel shaft that keeps things from bending and hindering engagement. You can assume the linkage is good due to the fact you tried it manually. So the next thing is to look at the wear on the cone and the surface of the gear where it seats. I use a dremel tool with a flap wheel, 120 grit, and put the gear in the lathe and spin it while polishing it with the flap wheel to clean things up.
Years ago I was docking my boat and the motor killed. I had to get it started (clear flood mode = excessive rpm) and through it into reverse. After that it would go into gear, most of the time with a delay. I chased it as you have and in the end, I put a new shift fork assembly in it and it worked great for years after that. While it was doing it, I would sometimes rev the motor to 2500 rpm before it would go in to gear. I did that most of the summer chasing the issue (several months of boating). With the new shift fork, it worked great and I never replaced the cone!
If it were me, I would replace the shift fork and try it. You can do that with it still on the boat. If that doesn't help, then look deeper.
Hope that helps..
Dick

My sons XR drive was doing exactly the same thing, after making sure all fof the adjustments were good with no improvement, he replaced the cone clutch, which was I believe around 250$ for the part, but the tool required was an additional 100$.

Thanks alot! Since the kids played with the shift lever with engine shut, i guess I will start with the yoke and cam assembly. Number 8 here http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/s...0982/11296/110
I wonder if I would see any noticeable wear on the original part if it is the problem? Mr Gadget: no need to replace lower shift cable since it is a 2006 new style? I hope the clutch did'nt wear out since it's been working like that for at least 50 hours of Operation. The cam assy seem pretty easy to replace while the clutch seems more like a pita job. While I am there with my questions, I had the gimble bearing replaced last year for
Preventive maintenance. The boat is a Baja 275. Since I purchased the boat, I have always noticed a little more rough running when the drive is all the way down or in sharp turns. Goes away when the drive is a bit up (1/8 to 1/4 up on the gauge). It's kind of a sweet operating spot. Is this normal? I dont remember that on my previous 25 outlaw with same power package.

If the cone is shinny and the ridges are worn you should be able to see it. Also look at the surface in the gear where the cone seats for any tearing or damage. If the cable has the steel end, then no need to replace.
The vibrations you feel when the drive is tucked in or to extreme right to left could be the ujoints in the input shaft. Or it could be prop vibrations. When you pull the drive check the ujoints for smooth operation and not sloppy.
Hope that helps.
Dick