Hi all!

First time posting. I've been advised by my marina that I have to replace my TRS lower unit (not just the housing). Seems I missed out on a rebuild w/a 1 year warranty which is a REAL bummer. I held out b/c there was a question at the time if the motor was shot. Thankfully it's not!

Anyone know who I can contact to get a rebuilt unit? Would love some kind of warranty if possible. Boat is currently in NJ but I live in FL and I know there might be shops in FL that I could go to.

You are all really great people so your feedback is very much appreciated!!

Just a couple things that you may not know,

TRS drives are directional, do you need a right hand or left hand drive? Left hand lowers are stronger.

The lowers need to be shimmed to the uppers.

I have a LH Lower off of my 20 Cigarette.
I has a nose cone and PPG DCC 9000 Paint.
It has one season on it after being rebuilt with new gears, bearings and seals.

$1200.00 + Shipping

PM me you number or email for pictures

You can probably find a complete drive for what you will pay for a lower and having a shop shim it to your upper.

Probably a dumb question, but can you explain the "shim to upper" comment? I guess i never paid attention how the TRS upper & lower connect.

Upper to lower needs (or should be) shimmed properly, if you don't you can destroy it, also remember if you wasted gears most likely you have metal in upper

There's a tapered Timken bearing between the upper and lower. Bearing is on the lower half and the bearing race is in the upper half. Shims go under the bearing race to set the proper bearing to race clearance for when the two half's are assembled.

The shims are used to set the bearing preload. You set up the upper half and lower half. When they are bolted together the shims set the preload on upper bearing of lower unit. It's measured as overall preload at prop shaft. The way it's done is to put more shims in than needed, so as you tighten the two halfs together and get proper overall preload at prop shaft you will have a space. Measure the gap with feeler gauge than take apart and remove the amount of shims equial to the feeler gauge reading. I would have to look at manual but I think you add a couple of thousands back in. Bolt it back together and recheck overall preload. If it's good your all set if not you may have to add or subtract a few thousands. Basically it's time consuming and a pain in the ass to do.

That is about the only thing I do know. Left hand. The rest I have to leave up to my mechanic since I'm totally new to the I/O thing.

Picklenjim - if you have contacts, I'm open to making some calls.