Drive recommendation
#11
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,333
Likes: 852
The cost of Bravo repairs and down time, if you are planning on keeping the boat for any length of time - the Bravo conversion from Arneson becomes more viable. HP isn't an issue at that point and definitely ups the cool factor
#12
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,611
Likes: 371
From: Traverse City MI
The SCX upper SC lower or BMAX drive which both use bravo XR gears in the lower are definitely an upgrade that don't lose much speed BUT you still don't have complete peace of mind.
The bravo geared lower WILL wear out, pit, and spread metal through your beautiful upper....so make sure to freshen every winter so you catch any problems before they destroy the entire drive.
The bravo geared lower WILL wear out, pit, and spread metal through your beautiful upper....so make sure to freshen every winter so you catch any problems before they destroy the entire drive.
#14
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 538
Likes: 4
From: munhall pa.
I offered him a complete package. IMCO new sct upper with a sc lower drive coupler bell housing 1350 bam trans imco ext box HD gimble housing silver power coated. All for little more then just the complete drive. $18,500.00
#15
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,325
Likes: 112
From: Northern NY
Not to cut into one's thread here, but I will be buying two new drives over the winter for the Fountain. If one would be interested in a used XR sweptback let me know. Decent service with Amsoil Severe Gear every 25 +/- hours. PM here or ask for the office phone, these will need to go, offers?
#19
Had a customer two years ago with 700 hp in a 27' Fever. It had an SC drive on it. SC didn't hold up. Blew the upper and wasted the transom assembly at the same time.
I re-rigged him for a BMax 1.50 ratio. Boat didn't loose any speed and it's been two years since I did the job and no failures.
At the 700 hp level, you'll need to refresh the lowers every 3 seasons or so, depending how you drive it. Just change the oil every 10-15 hours and monitor the fluid. If you ever see a metal flake in the oil, keep a closer eye on it. If at the next 10-15 hour sevice there's more metal flake then the first time, it's time to tear the lower down and put a new gearset in.
I run 965HP on BMax HT's. My uppers were freshened after 300 hours with new pinion gears. The lowers I replace every other season. You gotta pay to play.... but I don't have any failures (knock on wood).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]562455[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]562456[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]562457[/ATTACH]
I re-rigged him for a BMax 1.50 ratio. Boat didn't loose any speed and it's been two years since I did the job and no failures.
At the 700 hp level, you'll need to refresh the lowers every 3 seasons or so, depending how you drive it. Just change the oil every 10-15 hours and monitor the fluid. If you ever see a metal flake in the oil, keep a closer eye on it. If at the next 10-15 hour sevice there's more metal flake then the first time, it's time to tear the lower down and put a new gearset in.
I run 965HP on BMax HT's. My uppers were freshened after 300 hours with new pinion gears. The lowers I replace every other season. You gotta pay to play.... but I don't have any failures (knock on wood).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]562455[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]562456[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]562457[/ATTACH]


