-3 modification who can do this
03-31-2017, 07:35 PM
#22
The above fits a Maximus prop
I just bolted on the SS cavitation plate and cut off what hung below, removed the plate and then used a orbital sander to clean it up.
After you cut it off you lose the ridge that holds up the back of the cav plate so make sure you have at least 1/2 inch clearance to any prop.
The prop getting on plane causes a LOT of suction and will pull the cav plate down into the prop if it is not high enough. Ask me how I know.
I just bolted on the SS cavitation plate and cut off what hung below, removed the plate and then used a orbital sander to clean it up.
After you cut it off you lose the ridge that holds up the back of the cav plate so make sure you have at least 1/2 inch clearance to any prop.
The prop getting on plane causes a LOT of suction and will pull the cav plate down into the prop if it is not high enough. Ask me how I know.
03-31-2017, 07:37 PM
#23
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iTrader: (4)
What I have planned is going to work perfectly. My idea is similar to what you did originally. Have you noticed any ill effects with the flip up on the end of the cavitation plate? I believe the SX4 is very similar to that.
03-31-2017, 07:39 PM
#24
OH and I took the sawzall to the back of my prop also.
This is my OLD bravo 28 that is off of the SCARAB and it doesn't owe me anything. I figured I would do all of the experimenting on this on. Then I ordered a new one like it from BBlades. New one is a 30 though.
This is my OLD bravo 28 that is off of the SCARAB and it doesn't owe me anything. I figured I would do all of the experimenting on this on. Then I ordered a new one like it from BBlades. New one is a 30 though.
03-31-2017, 07:43 PM
#25
My props are SO high it doesn't do much at all. It is there more to shield the prop - labbed props are sharp.
Anytime I pull up to the beach I make sure to tell anyone that is near the back of the boat to be very careful because my prop is much closer to the surface not four feet down.
Anytime I pull up to the beach I make sure to tell anyone that is near the back of the boat to be very careful because my prop is much closer to the surface not four feet down.
03-31-2017, 07:50 PM
#26
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iTrader: (4)
Well I'm going to order some aluminum plate and make my own bolt on cavitation plate. I'm going to build it similar to how merc build the sportmaster plate. They have it also bolt to the rear of the housing as well as to the existing cavitation plate. That way, you don't get the sucking issue you were describing above.
03-31-2017, 07:55 PM
#27
As for your drive height statement earlier I tend to agree.
Last year I was having a conversation with two other owners of 26 Daytona's and they both had approximately 800 to 850 HP. They were doing 95 consistently that I was doing with one of YOUR engines ( 650 HP ) I now have the same HP as they had and I can do 108 with half tanks anytime and 112 under ideal conditions.
Last year I was having a conversation with two other owners of 26 Daytona's and they both had approximately 800 to 850 HP. They were doing 95 consistently that I was doing with one of YOUR engines ( 650 HP ) I now have the same HP as they had and I can do 108 with half tanks anytime and 112 under ideal conditions.
03-31-2017, 07:59 PM
#28
Ideal drive height does have one drawback though. My boat wouldn't get on plane at all with a 4 without the extra negative trim mods. It would get on plane with the Maximus before the negative trim mods about the same as it does now with the 4 blade.
03-31-2017, 08:00 PM
#29
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iTrader: (4)
Yes, building more power is only half of the equation, look at your scarab vs my formula. Mine is smaller and a bit lighter, but as of today, 7-8 mph slower with the same engines. I'm willing to bet that I'll make up most of that with the right drive height. Better exhaust this summer isn't going to hurt things either.
