Wait....BBF ??????

LoL...just kidding. Awesome project. Anxiously awaiting the top speed!

You need a 1/2" I.D. hose to feed the pump from the reservoir. No hard 90's between the pump and the reservoir, and the reservoir has to be higher than the pump.. The pump cannot suck... It just takes what it gets and the more it gets the better it pumps.

Heat.. It shouldn't be hot to the touch. Warm is ok, but not hot.. Hot causes problems.

Trace out your flow from your pump.. Feed lines should be dash 6 minimum. Return from the helm to the reservoir is typically Dash 8 push lock hose as there is no real pressure concerns with the return line.

You need a cooler at least 9" long with 3/8" pipe fittings.

The reservoir should only be about 1/2 full.

The vent and the return line should be on opposite sides of the reservoir, else the inflow and outflow will PUKE.

Great post, really like all the steps shown to make that drive work, very cool!

Wondering if you considered the Black Hawk drive?

Great looking cool setup, love the rooster tail!

Remember, this is a single cylinder system. The level in the reservoir will change when the cylinder moves.
Take this into account when deciding how full to fill the reservoir.

I have the same setup using the factory GM Saginaw pump/reservoir without issue. Having a bigger/seperate reservoir is certainly better though. I use ATF only because it it is common to the trans and trim system. Less bottles to cary on the boat for spares.

If you haven't added a filter, now is the time. The clearances in the steering orbital are tighter than clearances in your engine.

Keep hot rodding,

Jeff

I didn't consider the Black Hawk because my days of chasing parts and loosing a season are over. I know that a lot of parts are available but I just hate not having what I need when I need it. With the Arneson, Rick is only a phone call away and a great resource of knowledge.

Also talking with Rick before I started this, I asked about the Black Hawk and the two props create twice the stern lift of a single, which is not something that the Classic 22 runs well with. Also the price difference between the two isn't much and the Arneson has proven to be able to handle the power longer so that was my reasoning.

Ok, back to the shop to start on the power steering pump!

Ok, pump is ready to go back in!

I just welded a freeze plug to the top and a bolt in the drain back...lol

Now its a -10 return.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h5...psbgk17jf8.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h5...psmerh9fd8.jpg

I got bored and also made some new exhaust turn downs, I have not polished them yet and didn't want to spend much time on them because I think my back seat is going to get splashed with spray. So I'm starting with these and if they quite down the idle then great!

Any reason why these wont work?

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h5...psfluelgz6.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h5...psdxh3fj7k.jpg


They kinda look weird, but if they quite the thing down then I don't care, I guess...

The Blackhawk has the same weaknesses of the Bravo drives. Changing power direction twice through sets of small, inadequate gears. The Arny does away with this problem.

nice setup with 22" Donzi
could I ask if you are running 1:1 or under/over drive with Arneson, and whether your using the BW71/72 transmission?
I had a trial fit with the arneson on back of 21', as Rik suggested use a wedge to get the transom to 12 degrees, however using direct drive, with casale on inside of boat

I am running a 1.5 reduction in the Arneson.
72c with 1:1

And I am not running any wedge, so far so good.

What boat is this going on?