Imco Sc lower which one?
#1
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
looking for some set up advice , currently running a 489 pro charged big block in a 20.5 Cougar V Hull , the hull is a Round Chine Hull currently running lows 92-93 mph , looking of upgrading my xr lower to an imho sc lower , I'm just not sure on which one is best for boat , currently from bottom of hull to center of prop shaft I'm measuring at 7.5 inches with everything level. Does anyone have any input here? I've hurd from a few guys they have tried the Imco sc lower with the -2 and it had some negative effects. I obviously would like to get rid of the XR lower and go to the nose cone at the speeds im currently running.
Thanks
Thanks
#3
As low as your prop is I would go to the -3 and modify the upper for clearance. You can always shim it lower if needed.
4 3/4 below the hull is about right I would think for a 21 ft boat.
Do you have tabs?
4 3/4 below the hull is about right I would think for a 21 ft boat.
Do you have tabs?
#5
7 3/4 inches below the hull is very low for a performance boat.
At 4 3/4 inches down you might need to run a 4 blade prop but not a 5 blade.
Like I said I would go to a -3 IMCO shorty. It is very easy to shim it down but expensive to buy a new shorter lower.
I am looking for a good used -3 to have as a spare.
I have a -2 now but it is 1.5 ratio and I can get on plane just fine with the -3.
I bet you have to trim way up to get top speed.
Trimming the drive way up makes the boat heavier when the goal is to make the boat lighter.
It also can make the boat hard to control at speed
At 4 3/4 inches down you might need to run a 4 blade prop but not a 5 blade.
Like I said I would go to a -3 IMCO shorty. It is very easy to shim it down but expensive to buy a new shorter lower.
I am looking for a good used -3 to have as a spare.
I have a -2 now but it is 1.5 ratio and I can get on plane just fine with the -3.
I bet you have to trim way up to get top speed.
Trimming the drive way up makes the boat heavier when the goal is to make the boat lighter.
It also can make the boat hard to control at speed
#8
bigblockbill - Are you measuring from the bottom of the outer hull forward of the step or from the center pod.
That sounds a lot deeper than normal for a Daytona.
Stock mine was 2 inches lower than the lowest point on the hull.
I installed an IMCO neutral box with a -3 shorty and recut the transom up 1 inch for a total height of 2 inch above the lowest point of the hull.
That sounds a lot deeper than normal for a Daytona.
Stock mine was 2 inches lower than the lowest point on the hull.
I installed an IMCO neutral box with a -3 shorty and recut the transom up 1 inch for a total height of 2 inch above the lowest point of the hull.
#9
daniel475 - I don't understand what you are asking.
I am running a 1:36 ratio because I don't want to run out of prop when I add the blower to my engine.
Right now I am running a labbed Bravo 28 at 6400 RPM. I would have to run a 32 if I was running 1:5 ratio. Add the blower and I can't buy a prop big enough.
I am running a 1:36 ratio because I don't want to run out of prop when I add the blower to my engine.
Right now I am running a labbed Bravo 28 at 6400 RPM. I would have to run a 32 if I was running 1:5 ratio. Add the blower and I can't buy a prop big enough.
#10
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
No i get what your saying about prop ratio etc, I will be doing the same with a 1.34 ratio , just hurd sometimes with single leg applications the shorty's don't seem to work , for my boat so far when I had the standard length bravo one with xr lower it was very smooth and didn't need a lot of trim to get it moving , I guess you really don't know how a shorty would work until you try one , just would suck to bolt one up and it was un safe ! thanks a lot for all the information !



