IMCO Lower Decisions
10-25-2017, 01:24 PM
#11
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Not sure if this post was for me or not. I was told the DriveGuardian will help with torque spikes from planing to prop re-entry and everything in between. The prop shaft is approximately even with the center pod behind a 12 inch box when the drive is set for neutral on the trailer. When traveling at speeds over 80mph the boat likes positive trim. The prop comes out of the water more than expected when managing boat wakes, etc. The worst is trying to keep on plane with a full load of passengers at LOTO or Lake Michigan in rough water. The boat comes out the water so much in waves over 2 feet I won't even try and get on plane in those conditions anymore. Live and learn!
Last edited by SecondWind; 10-25-2017 at 01:51 PM. Reason: poorly written
10-25-2017, 01:57 PM
#12
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With how well your setup performs currently, triple digits plus being able to pull tubes and skiers, inspecting the lower after every season sounds like a fair trade off to me.
If you do decide to go with one of the scx lowers, most likely the 1400, I'd get it up as high as possible, which would be 3.5" above the bottom of the center pod if I read your first post correctly? I haven't read of many or any scx lowers retaining the same speeds of an sc lower if they aren't raised above the bottom of the hull. Imco also makes a #6 propshaft adapter that could be used for testing #6 props as well if you couldn't get a bravo style prop to work out.
I'm going to have to try an sc lower on my outlaw next season because 800hp for lower 80s with the 1300scx lower just isn't cutting it if you ask me. My lower is 2.25" below which I believe leaves too much of the massive lower unit to drag.
If you do decide to go with one of the scx lowers, most likely the 1400, I'd get it up as high as possible, which would be 3.5" above the bottom of the center pod if I read your first post correctly? I haven't read of many or any scx lowers retaining the same speeds of an sc lower if they aren't raised above the bottom of the hull. Imco also makes a #6 propshaft adapter that could be used for testing #6 props as well if you couldn't get a bravo style prop to work out.
I'm going to have to try an sc lower on my outlaw next season because 800hp for lower 80s with the 1300scx lower just isn't cutting it if you ask me. My lower is 2.25" below which I believe leaves too much of the massive lower unit to drag.
10-25-2017, 02:16 PM
#13
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Not sure if this post was for me or not. I was told the DriveGuardian will help with torque spikes from planing to prop re-entry and everything in between. The prop shaft is approximately even with the center pod behind a 12 inch box when the drive is set for neutral on the trailer. When traveling at speeds over 80mph the boat likes positive trim. The prop comes out of the water more than expected when managing boat wakes, etc. The worst is trying to keep on plane with a full load of passengers at LOTO or Lake Michigan in rough water. The boat comes out the water so much in waves over 2 feet I won't even try and get on plane in those conditions anymore. Live and learn!
10-26-2017, 07:47 AM
#14
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This is the type of water that kills the drive. We were taking a customer and his wife to the City Winery on Chicago's Riverwalk in late July. I couldn't keep the prop in the water to save my life so I finally just took it off plane and idled to the lock. Super fun trip though. We parked behind a yacht with someone playing the violin off the stern of the boat. We pulled up looking like the Beverly Hillbillies, good times!
10-26-2017, 08:03 AM
#15
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I forgot all about your love of Chicago boating! And obviously LOTO during the SOTPR would be hard on the drive.
I'd stay with the SC lower for now. If you decide to go SCX lower you can get adapters made to where you can run Bravo style props instead of cleavers. Not sure how that would work out given the shape of the SCX bullet.
I'd stay with the SC lower for now. If you decide to go SCX lower you can get adapters made to where you can run Bravo style props instead of cleavers. Not sure how that would work out given the shape of the SCX bullet.
10-26-2017, 12:10 PM
#16
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I forgot all about your love of Chicago boating! And obviously LOTO during the SOTPR would be hard on the drive.
I'd stay with the SC lower for now. If you decide to go SCX lower you can get adapters made to where you can run Bravo style props instead of cleavers. Not sure how that would work out given the shape of the SCX bullet.
I'd stay with the SC lower for now. If you decide to go SCX lower you can get adapters made to where you can run Bravo style props instead of cleavers. Not sure how that would work out given the shape of the SCX bullet.
10-29-2017, 09:21 AM
#17
One thing you may want to consider if you stay with a SC is REM and Cryo of the drive components. A lot of info on the web about it. Did them to my SC lowers 5 years ago. Been trouble free behind 800's. Relatively inexpensive to do and added reliability and performance.
10-29-2017, 10:21 AM
#18
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Secondwind, were you running the 1-7/16" shaft? I've heard better results from that lower.
10-30-2017, 06:18 AM
#19
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We were running 1-1/4” propshaft before. I’m not sure if a 1-1/4” or 1-7/16” propshaft is going back on. Performance Boat Center is installing the DriveGuardian and new lower. I called IMCO about 1-7/16” propshaft over the Summer and they mentioned customers order them if they’re worried about throwing prop blades. The larger diameter propshaft is less likely to bend if you throw a blade. I was under the impression that was the only advantage. I didn’t even ask PBC what SC lower they ordered. I’m trusting the Coil brother’s at PBC to order whatever they think I need.
10-30-2017, 06:22 AM
#20
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I’ll look into that. Who did you use to strengthen the gears?
