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I usually can;t hear noises in question with thru transom exhaust thru videos, but i sure can in your videos.
Not to fuel the fire because I'm usually trying to calm it over noises,,but if that was mine i believe I would be concerned. Impossible without haring it live I guess, but again, if i can hear it on video it would be much louder in person. I can't help with much else, I've never repaired a drive. |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4641089)
I usually can;t hear noises in question with thru transom exhaust thru videos, but i sure can in your videos.
Not to fuel the fire because I'm usually trying to calm it over noises,,but if that was mine i believe I would be concerned. Impossible without haring it live I guess, but again, if i can hear it on video it would be much louder in person. I can't help with much else, I've never repaired a drive. |
wicked noticeable in this one;
20 seconds in she's a banging good. <iframe width="424" height="308" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/eH38OOOmlLY" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
I definitely hear it and I agree that it's the same noise you make turning by hand with the top cap off. I would think that is excessive play but can't say for sure. Surely someone with knowledge will chime in.
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Don't cone clutches rattle a bit at times ??....maybe this was talked about, I have not read this complete thread
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I think this video is the most noticeable even without the exhaust covered. A lot of clanking going on. The clanking is not in beat with the cam lope
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I hear it. That ain't right. I've heard them buzz/whirl/whine in the upper but never clank like that. Time to take it apart before it takes itself apart and costs you a bunch more if it takes out the tower/case.
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what happens when the drive is in gear .....louder, noise goes away ?
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I was just about to ask the same thing...........if it goes away in gear I'd run it. (see post 15)
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Ok noise does not go away in forward or reverse or neutral...starts to go away above 1000 rpms...This is on trailer only with garden hose. The drive was torn down 4 times, new input shaft assembly seal washer nut shift linkage.preload set for 8 in lbs . everything on inside...clear gear lube shows no sign of anything..see beginning of this thread
Merc certified mechanic everything is squeaky clean. |
Bravo's are cheap............run it till she blow's.......lol.............so what does the Cert. Merc guy say ??
U-jouint hitting the inner bellows race ? IDK cant tell on the inner web |
Run it then until it becomes silent! :food-smiley-009:
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:I have been running it...runs great..no vibs..shifts crisp..I don't get it...I had it taken apart too many times...I will run it until something sticks out of the side. thanks for all the responses...my merc guy??? says nothing.:nicethread: :479: :poopoo:
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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4641279)
Bravo's are cheap............run it till she blow's.......lol.............so what does the Cert. Merc guy say ??
U-jouint hitting the inner bellows race ? IDK cant tell on the inner web |
Maybe its just the clearances stacking up when you run it on the trailer? There is no load on it then. How does it sound when in the water?
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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 4641300)
Maybe its just the clearances stacking up when you run it on the trailer? There is no load on it then. How does it sound when in the water?
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Originally Posted by 35fountain
(Post 4641292)
The inner bellows race...do you mean the ring that keeps the bellows snug against the bell housing?
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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4641304)
yes, you stated a certified mercury guy rebuilt the the drive, thats who Im referring to
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[QUOTE=35fountain;4640845]I sent 6 videos to Mercury Marine..They said they couldn't hear it from a video..But they said check the top cap bearing and if you haven't ever changed it, you should just be careful on the tower height. Also make sure the + - are lined up perfectly on the gears. top minus bottom plus or visa versa, and something about the shift linkage adjustment. They also mentioned something about when the engine comes around on the compression stroked it actually slows down and speeds up even if we don't hear it and even though the engine is spinning smoothly it can cause a rattle, an engine that is tuned differently or needs to be adjusted. I told him I have 490 hp and i have the only boat out of 12 performance boats in my marina with this noise and the other 12 boats have a lot more hp than i do.They mentioned boats with transmissions that have a clutch plate rattles. I believe i mentioned something about this in a prior post. I swapped the drives and the noise followed the drive. My other drive is quiet, so i will cut out the rotation of the engine diagnoses.
Took the boat out yesterday...no vibrations..Hit some big rollers, came out of the water a lot.. Put the boat on the trailer, started it up and the noise was a bit louder I guess from the oil thinning out. Well, thanks for all the input from everyone..It was a good try..Hopefully the drive stays together. |
I personally don't think you have a serious problem. Probably just a little light on preload somewhere. I would just run it and not worry about it.
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Which way is the propshaft spinning for the drive that makes the noise ? Most fountains twin spin in but not sure about yours ?
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Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4641376)
Which way is the propshaft spinning for the drive that makes the noise ? Most fountains twin spin in but not sure about yours ?
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Out of curiosity, with both drives in gear (motors off), have you grabbed each prop and compared the backlash between both drives? Might have to jump the nuetral safety switch to get back into nuetral.
Has the prop shaft carrier been removed and the nit or bolt on vertices shaft verified to still be intact? I had a nut come loose that allowed the pinion gear to drop down onto the driven gears. Still ran though |
At this point and if it were mine, I’d drain down the fluid, pull the top and back caps off, remove the shift shaft, cam and detent ball and spring, put the shift shaft back in but leave the fork out, refill and run it, it’s going to be in gear since there’s no shift fork to hold the cone, but if the noise goes away, you know it involves the shift fork/cam, cone or bump rings on the gears...you’re not out anything, just time and lube |
Originally Posted by JaayTeee
(Post 4641435)
At this point and if it were mine, I’d drain down the fluid, pull the top and back caps off, remove the shift shaft, cam and detent ball and spring, put the shift shaft back in but leave the fork out, refill and run it, it’s going to be in gear since there’s no shift fork to hold the cone, but if the noise goes away, you know it involves the shift fork/cam, cone or bump rings on the gears...you’re not out anything, just time and lube thank you |
Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 4631325)
I am going to suggest getting two 10' lengths of plastic downspout corrugated pipe (solid kind, not holes), and tape it up to your exhaust to help isolate the exhast/motor noise away from the drive when you are troubleshooting and filming.
I don't doubt you that you hear something in the drive. I can hear something in the video, but I can't discern any details about it. |
.I couldn't pass up this day without taking a ride before the rainy forecast weekend ahead...As i was rinsing the engine @750 rpm when i got back .check this out.
This is the loudest knocking yet! |
Although I'm not a drive mechanic I have set ring and pinions in cars . It appears to me by looking at your vid with the top cap removed that there is excessive play between the gears maybe caused by too much preload on the drive gear ? (not sure how the distance between teeth are set on a B1) That would definitely cause a rattle .
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Originally Posted by the deep
(Post 4643035)
Although I'm not a drive mechanic I have set ring and pinions in cars . It appears to me by looking at your vid with the top cap removed that there is excessive play between the gears maybe caused by too much preload on the drive gear ? (not sure how the distance between teeth are set on a B1) That would definitely cause a rattle . https://youtu.be/lPr4UQPMBXg
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Originally Posted by the deep
(Post 4643035)
Although I'm not a drive mechanic I have set ring and pinions in cars . It appears to me by looking at your vid with the top cap removed that there is excessive play between the gears maybe caused by too much preload on the drive gear ? (not sure how the distance between teeth are set on a B1) That would definitely cause a rattle . https://youtu.be/lPr4UQPMBXg
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Originally Posted by JaayTeee
(Post 4643053)
with the top cap off, 2 things happen, the clutch shaft isn’t held in place, the internal bearing in the driven gears race is in the top cap ( not there to position the gear) and the garter springs ( between the shift cone and gears) will push the gear stack apart... there is a process for checking backlash, it involves holding the driven gear in place and checking the movement at the pinion, a few special tools are required to do this though |
My reply was based on judging clearance with the top cap off, it’s not an accurate reflection of how much backlash there is unless someone were to leave out thrust bearings/ races and race that presses on the top cap tower....it would be like trying to judge backlash on a differential with on of the carrier bearings missing |
Understood .My ears are giving me an accurate reflection of rattling backlash not my eyes . 72 reply's and the answer seems obvious to me but hey I'm not a drive tech . Sometimes the answer is right under your nose . deep out .
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Another Update: Today I decided to swap top caps of the drives. I placed the flexible duct over my exhaust but it did not quiet it down much. When I removed the starboard drive cap (note this isn't the drive making the noise) i noticed that it was filled with oil and bottle was full. When i removed the top cap off the port drive (noisy drive) I noticed no oil well not as high as the other.and the bottle was full.https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9d5318c005.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0c1aba2184.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...44112ded9d.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3c54e0110f.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...63d3574d3c.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e8211c8e48.jpg I opened the air bleed hole and that was covered with oil. So i tried to swap the caps and could not. They wouldn't fit. On the noisy drive cap it looks like there is an outer race around the bearing and on the other drive it looks like that race is inside the the gear bearing. I didn't want to mess with it so i put it back together any thoughts? |
Hello JaayTeee?? |
35fountain - You mentioned one cap has a race pressed on and one doesn't ?
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race thats still in the gear set is cracked(about 12 oclock),that race is supposed to be pressed on to the top cap.
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Originally Posted by sutphen 30
(Post 4643732)
race thats still in the gear set is cracked(about 12 oclock),that race is supposed to be pressed on to the top cap.
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Looks like the race may have spun on the tower too after it cracked.... probably time for it to come apart at least to clean out the trash |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4643726)
35fountain - You mentioned one cap has a race pressed on and one doesn't ?
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