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Rattle
The H stamped in the gear pictured means high bump shifter. Post picture of your shift lever so we can see if you have the correct one installed. |
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...936fbc12c7.jpg
Originally Posted by Clustergear
(Post 4645317)
The H stamped in the gear pictured means high bump shifter. Post picture of your shift lever so we can see if you have the correct one installed. I just bought a complete upgrade kit ..low price just in case brand new 43-883473A4 |
The marks on the gears will be aligned 2x per rev, no matter what somewhere around the 360* rotation. It’s having them aligned with the lines on the housing all at the same time that’s required to work with the shift fork. It’s certainly looking like whoever replaced your ujoint input shaft assembly didn’t align the gears, thus playing hava on your shifter fork and creating the rattle |
He's talking about the shift lever, you also asked about the grease. I'm using Green Grease, some use 2-4-C.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e1d06e3ab1.jpg |
This shift lever was replaced not for any reason but because he was putting a new input shift in they put a new shift lever in also. I have the old 1 at home I'll check it later and I got a tube of 2 4 c grease thanks
So if it is not like the one you a showing in the picture what will that cause the shift Cam assembly to be on an angle |
the lever pictured above is the high bump, Low bump has a slower angle. If you order new gear set kit you need shims that go under the two driven gears they don’t come in kit. Make sure you use the correct tool to press tower race bearings on to towers there are a couple of different ones to set position on tower. The kit gives the correct one under special tools by case Ser. #. The new grease to replace 101 and other greases is called High Performance Extreme. Also always use new nut on yoke when setting preload on bearing stack If you have any questions setting up new gear set you have my number Just give me a call. Your lucky we order same gear set this morning and there now on back order. |
I got the new gearset for the other drive that had the spun tower race just in case its needed.
not for this drive we are discussing. I believe these are already upgraded Sometimes I just buy spare parts if the price is right |
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0a72a55eb7.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6e4ff582c7.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8b88baff1c.jpg The shift lever is the old one pictured It looks the same as the one that's in the drive now Also Timing marks are on their way to lineup if you blow up to picture you'll see the negative down on the left the positive on the top right. I am sure if I could turn the gears they will lineup. I really appreciate everyone's input on my situation, so what now? put all back together..fill it with lube and start her up?. At least we found where the knocking is coming from. Could have been a worse diagnoses. Its been like this since last summer and like my merc guy says its squeaky clean inside don't worry about the noise...Yeah! at who's expense? That's why i am here...Thanks everyone. |
Originally Posted by Clustergear
(Post 4645367)
the lever pictured above is the high bump, Low bump has a slower angle. If you order new gear set kit you need shims that go under the two driven gears they don’t come in kit. Make sure you use the correct tool to press tower race bearings on to towers there are a couple of different ones to set position on tower. The kit gives the correct one under special tools by case Ser. #. The new grease to replace 101 and other greases is called High Performance Extreme. Also always use new nut on yoke when setting preload on bearing stack If you have any questions setting up new gear set you have my number Just give me a call. Your lucky we order same gear set this morning and there now on back order. |
Researching a B3 that has a rattle when in N and F but not R. Older 2004, not sure if H stamped gears or what but all internals are as from Merc. Drive has maybe 200 hours on it behind a 305 in 25' Deck boat cat hull. My son's boat he bought used with a locked up drive. The cone clitch was "stuck" together and my drive guy freed it up, inspected the entire drive and deemed it all well. He said all gears in great shape. Cause of the cone clutch lockup was a jouyride by previous owners neighbor kids. They ran it hard to the point the drive oil was blackish and slammed it into gear or R.
B3 rattles in N and F but not R in and out of water, same tinking type noise and a few knowledgble drive guys listened and said it was the shift fork tinging on the ramps. One of the guys who nows his history said the early B3 rattlle more than later and there was a slight change in ramps or something (he explained but I did not retain) in the early drives to the later ones. Something about the shape of something to help them come out of gear in very cold water with a cold drive. I was wondering if we biased the cable pull adjustment one way of the other if it would help this. I suppose I could disconnect the linkage and gently pre-load the cable a bit one way then the other to see if it changes. Cable was adjusted with the tool and it is new. In any case the noise I am hearing is the same as in the vids in this post. I was hoping that 35Fountain would have updated with what the remedy was. Anything that makes noise is from contacting metal to metal and if could be elimiated that would be best. Its just unnerving to hear that noise and I also wonder if something banging around will eventually wear and not function as intended. |
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