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If not threading a slide hammer, a three jaw around the gear. Boy, what do we think happened to that gimble bearing. I didn't think there would be any if much room for the shaft to slide further into the bearing. I wonder if it is stuck into it and you're going to have to pull hard enough to get the bearing out. Good luck, please post what it looks like when you get that piece out.
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Originally Posted by ACrooks69
(Post 4646995)
If not threading a slide hammer, a three jaw around the gear. Boy, what do we think happened to that gimble bearing. I didn't think there would be any if much room for the shaft to slide further into the bearing. I wonder if it is stuck into it and you're going to have to pull hard enough to get the bearing out. Good luck, please post what it looks like when you get that piece out.
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Well looking at the situation currently, it may be time to sacrifice the ujoint bellows and pull the hat/bellhousing off to see what is going on at the gimble bearing. Can you pivot the bellhousing up and down / side to side freely, or is it binding?
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Originally Posted by ACrooks69
(Post 4647124)
Well looking at the situation currently, it may be time to sacrifice the ujoint bellows and pull the hat/bellhousing off to see what is going on at the gimble bearing. Can you pivot the bellhousing up and down / side to side freely, or is it binding?
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1 Attachment(s)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...63dc27365d.jpg
Forgive the crude sketch but see if you can come up with something like this. The thread is 5/8-18 https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=1eg99nl You can get everything you need from Mcmaster Put the hinge pins back in first. |
Originally Posted by Mbam
(Post 4647142)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...63dc27365d.jpg
Forgive the crude sketch but see if you can come up with something like this. The thread is 5/8-18 https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=1eg99nl You can get everything you need from Mcmaster Put the hinge pins back in first. your drawing is right on, I’ve invisioned in my head the same idea, i haven’t pulled the pinion nut yet, I did put the bell housing pins back in, so I can put pry bar under pinion gear, and at the moment, useing a 1” Allen wrench against the face of the bell Housing to pry against, I need the same setup x2 so I can pry evenly both sides. The puller would be great, making one, not so easy. I pulled my gimbal bearing puller out to see if it could be retrofitted. I’m going to call max machine worx this morning, I bet they may have a tool. |
Originally Posted by Mbam
(Post 4647142)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...63dc27365d.jpg
Forgive the crude sketch but see if you can come up with something like this. The thread is 5/8-18 https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=1eg99nl You can get everything you need from Mcmaster Put the hinge pins back in first. |
Originally Posted by zx1421
(Post 4647295)
thank you for drawing this up for me. I spoke to Aaron at Max Machine, they made a tool to yank it out, modded slide hammer, so I’m going to stop messing with it. I think I’m goig to go with a standard Bravo case, with XR guts. Max makes a spanner nut that goes in the snout to allow XR parts. The standard bravo is much thicker in the snout area, then put in the steel tower. And whatever can be salvaged from my XR. I read the receipt, I only got new lower gears, my uppers where ok at rebuild. I had it gone through about 3-4 years ago, had the reverse gear swapped to drive, and a new drive. So the gears that let go, if that’s what happened, where oem from 2003. Not really bad for having 1000 hp or so in front of them. Can’t say I’m a crappy driver. I agree, a crappy driver would not get 10 minutes with 1000 HP :) |
Originally Posted by Mbam
(Post 4647306)
Yes, standard case is stronger in that area. But unless you have one with a steel tower in both the case and the top cap you are giving up more than you are gaining.
I agree, a crappy driver would not get 10 minutes with 1000 HP :) |
Zx14
Sorry to hear about your drive after spending "all the money" at Teague on the motor deal. Good luck on the drive repair/rebuild..
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