Extension boxes and blackhawks
11-19-2018, 09:41 PM
#21
Banned
iTrader: (9)
I understand my statement was basically maybe not to stray away from the stock set up. The 29 did pretty well with the stock set up back in 1996 and blackhawks. Some boats like set backs and some boats do not.
With twins the RD might be not worth it depending on the wallet. Like I said I have not ever seen a 29 with set backs. I have driven these boats before as well. Might be best to ask Larry Smith before anything. Just saying.
With twins the RD might be not worth it depending on the wallet. Like I said I have not ever seen a 29 with set backs. I have driven these boats before as well. Might be best to ask Larry Smith before anything. Just saying.
11-21-2018, 06:45 AM
#22
Registered
Thread Starter
I understand my statement was basically maybe not to stray away from the stock set up. The 29 did pretty well with the stock set up back in 1996 and blackhawks. Some boats like set backs and some boats do not.
With twins the RD might be not worth it depending on the wallet. Like I said I have not ever seen a 29 with set backs. I have driven these boats before as well. Might be best to ask Larry Smith before anything. Just saying.
With twins the RD might be not worth it depending on the wallet. Like I said I have not ever seen a 29 with set backs. I have driven these boats before as well. Might be best to ask Larry Smith before anything. Just saying.
11-21-2018, 10:17 AM
#23
Registered
Interested to see where you end up and how it turns out. Love Blackhawk boats!
11-21-2018, 09:40 PM
#24
Gonna go of the res again on this based off some info on this thread so far.
Your x is 16.5, from bams drawing i gather crank to propshaft centerline is 13.375
16.5 - 13.375 puts propshaft @ 3.125 above the bottom.
Diameter of the gear case is 5 inches approx.
3.125 - 2.5 puts the bottom of the gearcase @ 0.625 above the bottom of the boat.
Trim the drives parrallel or to whatever setting the boat likes, ( guessing some positive trim ).
with a string taped to the boat bottom pull it past the gearcase and tie it off behind the boat so the string is approx 0.625 below the gearcase bottom, or touching the rearmost edge of the gearcase (right where the first prop hub begins).
From there measure back 12 inches and measure how far up the string line went. Its at least a starting point to place the propshaft height relation to the water 12 inches back as it is now.
Tape that string to the skeg so it is just touching or below the rearmost edge of the gearcase and crank the trailer tongue untill the string line is level, does that look like the boats angle of attack, bow too high, crank it down, right now with the changes you said it was too flat.
If you adjust the tongue and like the angle of attack, then go the 1 inch up for every inch back with the string line, wheres the string in relation to the gearcase ?
With a couple straps and a chainfall the drive and extension box can be slid up and down the transom in conjunction with the string line
Was me id go to the extremes like mentioned above towards finding the x especially when there are no inexpensive adjustments to had such as spacers, but i tend to go off the rails.
Awesome project, your going after the set up, Look up ben perfected here on oso, different boat, 30 scarab, similar world as you, surfacing bravos, bottom work, and chased down the perfect balance, boat runs over a hundred, no detail too small or overlooked.
Your x is 16.5, from bams drawing i gather crank to propshaft centerline is 13.375
16.5 - 13.375 puts propshaft @ 3.125 above the bottom.
Diameter of the gear case is 5 inches approx.
3.125 - 2.5 puts the bottom of the gearcase @ 0.625 above the bottom of the boat.
Trim the drives parrallel or to whatever setting the boat likes, ( guessing some positive trim ).
with a string taped to the boat bottom pull it past the gearcase and tie it off behind the boat so the string is approx 0.625 below the gearcase bottom, or touching the rearmost edge of the gearcase (right where the first prop hub begins).
From there measure back 12 inches and measure how far up the string line went. Its at least a starting point to place the propshaft height relation to the water 12 inches back as it is now.
Tape that string to the skeg so it is just touching or below the rearmost edge of the gearcase and crank the trailer tongue untill the string line is level, does that look like the boats angle of attack, bow too high, crank it down, right now with the changes you said it was too flat.
If you adjust the tongue and like the angle of attack, then go the 1 inch up for every inch back with the string line, wheres the string in relation to the gearcase ?
With a couple straps and a chainfall the drive and extension box can be slid up and down the transom in conjunction with the string line
Was me id go to the extremes like mentioned above towards finding the x especially when there are no inexpensive adjustments to had such as spacers, but i tend to go off the rails.
Awesome project, your going after the set up, Look up ben perfected here on oso, different boat, 30 scarab, similar world as you, surfacing bravos, bottom work, and chased down the perfect balance, boat runs over a hundred, no detail too small or overlooked.
Last edited by outonsafari; 11-21-2018 at 09:43 PM.
11-22-2018, 09:07 AM
#25
VIP Member
VIP Member
12-26-2018, 08:01 PM
#26
Registered
Thread Starter
It’s a little hard to pull a string line as the bottom has a rocker in it. The factory height has the bullet about 5/8 above the bottom. I’m guessing the bullet is skimming the water and somewhat acting like trim tabs and the boat runs really flat. Jacking the bow up with the drives on the extension boxes I’m guessing 2” higher will get the bow where I want it before the drives start pushing the stern up (bullet starts touching the string).
I opted for the standard boxes. They look better and would have to fill the transom and redrill anyways.
Now that I have all the parts including the exhaust I can start on it.
My exhaust I have will allow me to put the motors 2” closer together. Is it worth the effort?
I opted for the standard boxes. They look better and would have to fill the transom and redrill anyways.
Now that I have all the parts including the exhaust I can start on it.
My exhaust I have will allow me to put the motors 2” closer together. Is it worth the effort?
Platinum Member
12-28-2018, 08:04 AM
#28
Registered
Thread Starter
No weight reduction in the cabin. No gear or trash in the cabin. Lots of weight reduction in the engine area.
Single light battery
Single alternator
no engine water pumps
exhaust changes
all aluminum LS 6.2 engines
(The old EFI system was 85 lbs. !)
light flywheels
engine hatch weight reduction
i lost 40 lbs. lol
i will explore cabin weight reduction, but will not gut it.
Will glass/epoxy foam to replace plywood cushion bottoms,
This boat has never spent the night outside. That and I covered it with plastic, and run a dehumidifier until no more water came out. It’s dry.
I am blueprinting the bottom.
The extension boxes odes I am installing to try and get the balance back but not sure it it’s enough. Hoping that raising the drives will help.
Single light battery
Single alternator
no engine water pumps
exhaust changes
all aluminum LS 6.2 engines
(The old EFI system was 85 lbs. !)
light flywheels
engine hatch weight reduction
i lost 40 lbs. lol
i will explore cabin weight reduction, but will not gut it.
Will glass/epoxy foam to replace plywood cushion bottoms,
This boat has never spent the night outside. That and I covered it with plastic, and run a dehumidifier until no more water came out. It’s dry.
I am blueprinting the bottom.
The extension boxes odes I am installing to try and get the balance back but not sure it it’s enough. Hoping that raising the drives will help.
