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Bravo 1x up/down tilt clicking but not functioning
Hello to all! I appreciate this forum as it's been a great source for info on my 95 Forumula 271 sr1 Special Edition INDY model. Bravo 1x. Prev owner had 502 Mag fully rebuilt and new drive gimbal, and most all mechanical redone in 2016. I have records and have only put 25 hours on it since purchase due to illness. It only has a total of 45 hours on it since the rebuild. It's covered lift kept. I say all this just for background.
A couple months ago I noticed when testing thumb switches on throttle the power trim screeched loudly both up and down. It was dry on the lift and after working the buttons for several trips up and down screeching was gone and all was normal. I tried it again a couple weeks later and still fine. Last thurs I took the boat out on river after several months of life on the lift and noticed that the power trim did not function up or down. Back on the lift I could hear a solenoid/relay click from pump area when pressing buttons up and down but no other sound. Nothing. I checked the blue and green up/down wires at the pump/solenoid and both show 12v when buttons are pressed so power is getting there. Any help or direction would be appreciated as I'm finally feeling better and would like to take the boat out but without the power trim working it is a slow cautionary unfun ride with trim stuck fully in!! |
remove and clean the connections on both ends of primary power and ground wires to the pump.
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Thanks, will do this shortly.
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Thanks for the suggestion but it didn't work. I even tried cutting out the existing red positive primary with a direct shot with the positive from one of the batteries to the green and then blue wire terminals on solenoids to pump. I was expecting to hear pump or other noise. Nothing, no click or pump noise. Maybe I did it incorrectly, but it seemed pretty straightforward. I'm bummed. What is next step? I'm still left with just a single click from each solenoid when I press the up/down switch. And that is apparently wired directly as it causes a click at solenoid with both batteries turned off.
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the main power wire for the pump should go to a 1" "cube", make sure you have power on both sides of the cube, as its actually a fuse,
If you have a helper, have them hit the button while you have a test light on the wires from the solenoid to the pump, if you have power then the pump my be bad |
Well, the main primary power red wire goes to the solenoid with the blue wire and from there to the second solenoid with green. I forget at this moment which is up and which is down. I don't see a cube?? Only the black, blue, green going into pump. When I bypassed the current primary red wire and ran a wire directly from batt terminal to solenoids green terminal (then blue) wires, shouldn't that have fired the pump up?
I'm attaching two pix from after I managed to get the solenoids free from the metal bracket so I could see them and hold them. It is a small space, difficult to maneuver, and I'm a big guy. This is how the wires look. Some apparently have been spliced with diff color wires but after staring at them a bit it's clear which is red blue black and green. The thick primary red comes into the blue wire solenoid and spiders out from there. Someone smeared a lot of dialectic grease everywhere on the connections which, I guess, is good. You can see the three wires going into the pump. Also there are two wires that are burned at ends of butt connectors. They are the up/down switch wires coming to the solenoids. They don't look great, but apparently work since depressing the switches on the throttle lever causes the solenoids to respond. --- well, skip the pix for now as I seem to not have attachment privs.:angry-smiley-044: |
Green (grass) = down
Blue (sky) = up You need at least 10 posts to post pics |
I get the 10 posts as I run a Harley forum with thousands of members ( HDRidersUSA.com ) and pix can get out of hand. But with technical issues pix are often helpful... and we give latitude.
No worries! I'm almost there with post count ... Thanks on the blue/green clarification! |
And the BLUE sky up and GREEN grass down is the perfect tool for remembering!!!
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Originally Posted by phragle
(Post 4707394)
the main power wire for the pump should go to a 1" "cube", make sure you have power on both sides of the cube, as its actually a fuse,
If you have a helper, have them hit the button while you have a test light on the wires from the solenoid to the pump, if you have power then the pump my be bad |
Originally Posted by daxxer12
(Post 4707587)
I'm going to try this today. I am assuming that where the blue/green/black wires go into a connector which goes into the pump/motor, is what you are referring to as the "cube"? I'm helperless currently so it's difficult to reach or get one's face near to get a good look, much less pull the "cube" out to test the other side. Unless you're willing to gamble that you won't end up upside down with little leverage to push yourself up and out!! But I'm on it ...
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If you are getting 12v showing at the Blue/Green wires that go to the motor at the solenoid connections then you have one of three possible issues:
1. Bad ground on the motor not completing the connection. 2. Motor is shot...last one i had issues with was also screeching turned out the motor at some point got moisture in it and was rused internally...you would never know it from the outside! 3. The hydraulic pump is frozen. |
Originally Posted by Wally
(Post 4707629)
If you are getting 12v showing at the Blue/Green wires that go to the motor at the solenoid connections then you have one of three possible issues:
1. Bad ground on the motor not completing the connection. 2. Motor is shot...last one i had issues with was also screeching turned out the motor at some point got moisture in it and was rused internally...you would never know it from the outside! 3. The hydraulic pump is frozen. I'm wondering about the pump as there was a tiny few drops of water when I took the motor off. Concerning, but pump looks ok from outside lol... Took a screwdriver and manually turned the coupler and there was pressure to the UP port when a finger is held over the hole. So it is definitely not frozen. However, there is no pressure when turning the other way and holding finger over DN port. This may be ok as I've read on here somewhere that pressure down is about 1/5th of the pressure needed to move it up? I would like to buy just a motor, but then if pump didn't work I'd have to replace it which is pricier alone than in a combo kit with Pump, Motor & Reservoir. I'd then have one too many motors and a lighter wallet. So probably will just go with combo to begin with. I hope this solves the situation and something else like corrosion doesn't pop up as another reason for trim problems ... Thanks to all who have helped me so far, I appreciate it! Will let you know how it shakes out in a couple days. |
Check with Gordon Demarco on fb or sick stinger or full force on here..all of them part boats and probably have a good assembly for sale..
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I will thanks, phragle. I looked him up on FB but not sure which Gordon Demarco?? I'll check the others as well.
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Hey guys, I want to say thanks to all who gave out some wisdom. Everything is is back together and flushed, rewired, re-solenoided, and re-motored! Works great! I've decided to sell the boat but am having 2nd thoughts. Here is a link to the page with pix and info. You guys rock!
I suppose I need 10 posts for the url like the pictures, but I think I'm pretty close to that!. In fact, this is my 10th post, so my next post will have the link! Yaaaay! :boat: |
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