rspillman88

okay but would it be okay to install that when I already have slop at the tiller to swivel pin connection? Or do I need to fix that first then do the add on steering?

MyIsland

you don’t need the tiller arm connected to steering linkage with add-on ram. BUT you just need to make sure the nut on top of the swivel pin, up inside that plate on Gimbal housing, that sits on a washer on top of tiller arm is snug. The tiller arm still provides the spacing to tighten that swivel pin. You want to just make sure that is 100 percent.

rspillman88

okay that makes sense and I will check that. If I still have the proper spec of .002-.010 clearance at the bottom pin would that be a safe way to assume the nut is tight on the swivel shaft top of the tiller arm nut?

MyIsland

Id say yes!

but what be sitting in my mind still would be if the tiller arm is not busted. If someone put that plate on top of drive, I’m assuming they put a new stainless swival pin and seal. They should have put a newly conditioned gimbal ring and at that pt a new tiller arm, which they clearly did not. I’d want to make sure that arm is not busted.

phragle

iTrader: (3)

Its the steering on a boat that goes relatively fast on rough water. Provided you do not like leaks that eat transoms, unintentional swimming lessons or yourself, family and friends getting injured or worse....If there is the least question in your mind, take everything apart, inspect it and repair/replace as needed.

rspillman88

well the engine is coming out for a rear main seal fix so I will tear into it and make sure the gimble and swivel pin is good but if it's just wear on the tiller arm only, I'm just going to switch to a hydraulic steering add on and full hydro later.