Bravo 3 - Overheating ? Long Island
 

Hi. Newbie here. Trying to assess if I’m having an overheating issue in my 2003 Bravo 3 (1100 hours ). I believe somethings going on as lower unit oil overflows from oil reservoir when running over 4000rpms ( won’t otherwise ). I’ve owned engine and drive since new.

The only work done (2) years ago ( 120 hours ) was new u joint assembly was installed - I’m concerned the pre-load is too tight. When hand turning shaft ( out of fear ), it feels a little ‘grindy’, like I can feel the bearings turning.

I’m looking for a top notch, honest, highly qualified mercruiser mechanic who knows his stuff - located on Long Island NY. I can deliver the drive...

Thank you

Have you tried a new drive lube reservoir cap??

I’m replacing entire reservoir and cap. I’d hate to assume it’s that, put her in next year and have it happen again. Is there a way to test my current rez and cap ?

was also going to suggest the reservoir cap. how does your oil look? If it is overheating, it will smell burned and appear black.

To test the cap, drain the drive, and pressurize the drive (15 psi). you’ll have to make up a pressure tester. It’s pretty simple and cheap. Pickup a Schrader valve, tubing, fitting for drive drain, and bike pump with guage.

Pressure will test whole system. Drive, tubing, bottle and cap.

If you want the drive inspected, you will likely need to ship it out. AADS, max machine worx, etc.

Oil looked perfect; green, like I just put it in.

I built a pressure tester a few yrs back when I found some oil in my bellows. Pressure tested perfectly while static. This is when my mechanic changed the u joint and seals - he said that the gear had no pre-load - he reset it. I feel this is the point, the paint started to blister on top of drive a little.

Theoretically, when I pull the old oil reservoir, I could connect the 15psi to that and see how it goes ? Thoughts...

yes you could pressurize the bottle when removed from the boat. if it doesn’t hold pressure that’s your culprit. if it does...I’d replace it anyways.

if your oil was over heating I would think you would see signs in the oil. We have had issues this year on new re builds. See pictures. New vs burnt oil.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...cf109bcbd.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...baefa8d98.jpeg

There is a guy in Suffolk that does drive work. I have never used him, but a few friends have and were happy with his work. I pmed you his info.

Ready to focus on this. Need a drive guy. The guy in Suffolk retired :(

Looking for The Guy. Not just someone who is good or has 'done a few'... I will bring drive anywhere on LI for the right mechanic.

Thank you,

what if the guy doesn’t exist on LI.

do a search here on OSO...you will find many members using the same people. to name a few:

AADS
Machine Worx
Teague
mr gadgets

Good luck

I was having the same problem and it freaked me out as I had already blown the drive twice. I replaced the cap and it solved the problem.

Haven’t had a chance to check pressure yet... planning to do it tho.

Thx for drive repair shops. Seems like it would $$$ to just ship the drive ( packing it couldn’t be fun either ). If no good local guy, I’d consider it. But, I find it hard to believe, although not impossible, that there’s no one on Long Island who’s worthy.

I have a friend that owned a marina on LI up till about a year ago. I just contacted him and he couldn't recommend anyone else other than the guy i recommended that retired. Unbelievable

so you want someone who is the best of the best...yet you don’t want to pay for shipping? and you don’t want to package it?

Got it.

:party-smiley-004:

Under psi - thx, that’s what I’m starting to figure out...

Moses - the leader of people - stay positive with me brother. I’m trying to assess if there’s any option local to me. It’s all part of the process. Not sure where you’re from, but ‘ I live on an island ’... I live on the shore of the island, completely surrounded by water. Boating is a way of life; fishing, beaching, surfing etc. Boating is a huge industry here. The fact that there’s not any excellent out drive guy on The Island, is shocking. But, I’m learning it’s a fact !

So, there’s a damn good chance I’ll be packing and shipping my drive. I didn’t blow anything and for all I know, it’s an adjustment. Very expensive to pack, ship... for an adjustment...

Can you dig it ?

You say that after your repair guy ,retorqued, the upper pinion bearings it feels gritty when you turn the shaft by hand,, and paint is blistered on top of the drive,, the drive needs to be taken apart ,,upper pinion gear bearings for sure need to be replaced,, they should never feel gritty when turned ,,they are damaged,,worn out, etc.,,,and the paint on top should not be blistered,, in my opinion,, the entire drive should be torn down, replace bearings as needed,,retorque the bearings,and shim the gears to Merc. specs.,,

253 - I'm leaning in that direction.

For lack of a better way of explaining and lack of drive experience ( I maintain it - it works ) - when I turn the yoke/ universal, out of gear, I feel the friction of the bearings spinning. As if they are too tight. With 1100 hours, I don't disagree with the possibility that she might need a tear down, inspection and rebuild. But, then again, it might be something simple like just re-pre-loading the gears up top - or replacing the gears and re-loading. My old mechanic (*), only 100-120 hours ago, replaced the universal joint assembly, inspected and re-used the bearings - and pre-loaded the assembly. My recollection is that's when I remember seeing blistering on the top housing of the drive - and around when the oil started to come out of the oil reservoir. I rarely go over 3200 RPM's so the drive never got that hot for the oil to heat and expand. However, when I do go over the 3200 RPM's say over 4000, for even a short time, I see the oil start to rise in the reservoir and it eventually will spill over.

I'm really surprised that there's not a guy who the LI marine community could recommend. That's sad. I know a lot of hacks out there in every industry and avoid them like the plague. Trying to do the same here.

Once I've exhausted the LI option, or even New Jersey, or Connecticut, again - very salty, coastal places, I will be forced to ship and will not hesitate to do so.

(*) he has become way too flaky and not an option.

I would try a new cap before you do anything. There have been similar issues posted on here that ended up being a bad cap.

Okay, the blistering paint is definitely a warning sign, but before you start major disassembly I have to ask one thing..

Are you 100% sure you don't have air trapped in the drive upper? If you do, it will burp out a ton of lube thru the reservoir over and over again as the air warms and expands (lube doesn't really expand a whole lot until it boils at 500+ degrees). There's only one foolproof way to make sure...

On the trailer or lift, remove the reservoir cap and drain most of the lube out of the drive (or all of it). Then you have to fill the drive FROM THE BOTTOM with the drive trimmed fully "in" until the reservoir shows proper level. From that point forward, as long as the reservoir level never drops below the bottom of the bottle you can monitor and add lube without worry of air. But if the level DOES drop enough for any chance of air to get in the drive you'll struggle forever to get it back out.

There are pumps with a hose and screw in fitting for the drain hole on the lower. The best ones to use have a lever. The ones that you push down like a lotion dispenser will tire you out horribly..

If you start with zero air in your drive, it shouldn't puke lube into your bilge EVEN IF IT DOES OVERHEAT.

M

Resetting the used bearings to a higher preload is a NO NO. They end up with to much preload and will run hot.

O'KAY!
On one hand - I feel like a horse's A$$. On the other, I'm relieved, and if I had another hand, I'm still concerned...

Finally ran a pressure test on my lower unit oil reservoir. Put 5 PSI in. It leaked and bubbled slowly out of the cap seal. Tested a new reservoir - no leak. I know, I know... I should have tested this right away. So, I replaced the reservoir.

I deserve to be chastised a bit here. I deserve it. However, I still don't like that the paint on the top of the lower unit is blistering and feel that I should have at least the pre-load checked if not R/R bearings and re-do pre-load. I

the whole system should be able to take 15psi...so if the cap was leaking at 5psi, think you found your culprit. It will be your call on whether to crack open the drive.

good luck!!!!

Overheating Problem
 

Have you found the solution to your overheating problem? I can help! Call me: (352) 729-3093

Overheating Problem
 

Have you found the solution to your overheating problem? I can help! Call me: (352) 729-3093

If oil is turning black and paint is blistering..a simrek shower isn’t going to fix the problem.

I Agree !!

Call me please.(352) 729-3093

why when you are offering a band aid fix...

Not a band-aid fix. Heat is the biggest problem with anything that has oil, gears and bearings. If you keep the oil cooler, it will lubricate better. Does your outdrive get that white chalky buildup on it? Oil smell burnt and is black? When oil gets to the temperature of about 304 degrees it starts to break down. You know what happens not long after that.

If its chalk white then its just a bit to hot, but I'm reading it blisters paint and that's more then a shower can fix

I have one of your drive showers on my B3 XR and it seems to be doing fine. Only problem I had with it was the price for SS tubing, but do like the no drill

What causes the paint to blister?
We haven't had a price increase in 8 years even though the price of everything has gone up.
We just want to provide our customers with a great product. Boaters in 42 countries seem to like them.
I'm NOT a high pressure salesman at all. I just give them the facts and they decide for themselves.

As before $200 for a piece of SS tubing was my only issue and I bought it some years ago
It must be worth it because I bought one, but was on the fence with the drill type. Thought about making one my self, just don't have a TIG welder

im not disputing the merits of a drive shower. We have imco drive showers. They work great. But thinking a drive shower is going to fix an inherent issue inside the drive is naive.

your drive shower won’t fix bad pre load, bad bearings, or bad gear sets.

Ocean Performance doesnt have, or know of, a good drive guy on LI?