Outdrive Paint
#2
#3
Registered

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 12
I used Mercury rattle cans. First was two coats of the Mercury Primer sanding lightly between coats. Then (my 300R lower unit is silver in color) a Mercury silver matching corrosion resistant top coat (2 coats). This lower us run semi-surfacing at up to 76 mph and the paint has stayed on 2 years (about 90 hours) in freshwater.
#5
Registered

Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 155
Likes: 42
From: Midland, MI
Send me your email to [email protected]. I have the latest refinishing procedure from Merc I can forward you, Kinda a crazy 4 step process and materials only available from one place but not bad priced. did all mine and turned out great.
#6
Send me your email to [email protected]. I have the latest refinishing procedure from Merc I can forward you, Kinda a crazy 4 step process and materials only available from one place but not bad priced. did all mine and turned out great.
#7
Registered

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,029
Likes: 510
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Not mine - from past member...How to refinish drives:
We had no longetivity from Powdercoat.
Dismantle everything, a lot of Special tools needed, some we make, some we buy from Mercury.
Acetylene torch sometimes needed to get the pins out. Slidehammer or pin remover
Wash everything with degreaser. Tape up drive pivot pin holes, no blasting in there.
Media blast with used sand to get most of the paint off,then switch to walnut shells to finish up, they leave the surface very nice.
Next the very nice surface goes away we use 3M alodine treatment, step 1 spray all parts with part A, an acid that removes all debris we can not see in the porous metal. Walnut shell, dust, etc. do not let it dry, rinse it off well. Blow dry.
Part B is then applied, don not let it dry, the metal will turn golden color. Rinse well. Blow dry. The alodine coating now needs primed within 3 hours.
We use Awlgrip primer. 545, the sand it the next day, and reprime if needed.
We use Awlgrip Super Jet Black to cover, with emphasis on cover, before look good. Sometimes I let it dry 2 days , sand, and re coat for pretty.
Don't forget to call Stickerboy, (Kinetic Animation), for new M6 decals.
All this works great...... if you don't go to Key West Races for a week in the salt. We get about 2-3 years out of the paint, we always are in Salt Water, except for the Cig Rondevous
We had no longetivity from Powdercoat.
Dismantle everything, a lot of Special tools needed, some we make, some we buy from Mercury.
Acetylene torch sometimes needed to get the pins out. Slidehammer or pin remover
Wash everything with degreaser. Tape up drive pivot pin holes, no blasting in there.
Media blast with used sand to get most of the paint off,then switch to walnut shells to finish up, they leave the surface very nice.
Next the very nice surface goes away we use 3M alodine treatment, step 1 spray all parts with part A, an acid that removes all debris we can not see in the porous metal. Walnut shell, dust, etc. do not let it dry, rinse it off well. Blow dry.
Part B is then applied, don not let it dry, the metal will turn golden color. Rinse well. Blow dry. The alodine coating now needs primed within 3 hours.
We use Awlgrip primer. 545, the sand it the next day, and reprime if needed.
We use Awlgrip Super Jet Black to cover, with emphasis on cover, before look good. Sometimes I let it dry 2 days , sand, and re coat for pretty.
Don't forget to call Stickerboy, (Kinetic Animation), for new M6 decals.
All this works great...... if you don't go to Key West Races for a week in the salt. We get about 2-3 years out of the paint, we always are in Salt Water, except for the Cig Rondevous
#9
Registered

Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 155
Likes: 42
From: Midland, MI
Stits direct is the only source for primer and paint. Awesome people to deal with and can buy it as a kit. Alumiprep and Alodine I found elsewhere online. The alodine is critical on any bare aluminum as it anodizes it. Follow procedure and you will be super happy!










