Running the draw that those amps require, you should probably have a house battery and a starting battery. That way when your listening to the stereo at dock, beach or rafted off you can run off the house battery with the starting battery isolated, Thar way you dont run the starting battery down and get stuck,

When I ran a local audio shop, twenty years ago, Punch Amps were AMAZING!! They were nearly bullet proof. I've seen them run to a 1/4 ohm and take it, but boy did they get hot!!

I agree, whoever wired that system probably ran two speakers together off a four channel amp. But I've definitely try to move them and isolate the wiring. When I install a radio in a boat, I put it in a switch, but keep the memory wire hooked up so we don't have to re set the stations.

Also remember amps pull power from ground not positive. So keep your ground as short as possible.

Yikes .this is where that buddy of yours with a fluke 87 or 88 moves up to good buddy status .heat and humidity of bildge is tough on amp wiring ,at least pull clean and dielectric grease all speaker and power connectors, ohm channel outputs while wires off see what you have .those fosgate amps are never going to do the .5 ohm old school dream .that's ok .no less than 2 ,no more than 4 .wet people climbing on speaker enclosures usually lead to high resistance connectors at under seat speaks . Fix and add dielectric .seal front of speaker from back .get that sub sealed off somehow ,,maybe plywood compartment sections get it off those ema other speakers ,nobody ever threw a sub on the table ,hooked it up and impressed you . Seal it up .

Take a 1.5 v batt make sure polarity is correct .explore poss of bridging sub to 2 ohms .wire your head unit to key on term of key switch . And enjoy .won't wake the dead , but should sound respectable once dialed in ,if the bench seat speaks aren't waterlogged from wet butts

Yes sir, I love old school amps. My old zues feels like it is going to blow the speakers out of there mounts, and clean too. But I also had to run some seriously heavy wire to make it happy. I think my amp + and - are bigger than the battery cables. The two 10" free air subs are under the back seat, not completely air right, but they kick pretty hard and sound clean none the less.

Btw i have 3 of those old school fosgate cheater amps in my wellcraft ,with computer fans cooling them ,and a 150 amp alternator shoehorned under the power steering pump struggles to keep up with the current draw and the double pulley belt set up was a pita to retrofit but it jams .love those old school fosgates .unregulated ,and gloriously inefficient ,way out of warranty .and doubles as a George foreman grill when running those low ohm load speaker deals

Forget all this old school BS.. First ditch the head unit.. You dont need it now days.. Are you really going to bring your old Metalica CD boating? I use a Samsung tablet for GPS and to play the tunes. You can run a long patch cord from the tablet that plugs into the earphone jack and converts to rca jacks at the amp. I actually have a bluetooth module that is next to the amp and powers on with the amp so i dont even need the cable.. 1 less wire. You will need to run a wire to the dash for key on power to the amps or put it on a switch. All + power except for the amp on switch,should be run through a perco switch. This way Key off and switch off equals no drain. I have tons of music loaded on the tablet. If I want to hear something not on the tablet, then I wifi hot spot off my phone to the tablet and play Youtube videos on it.

Chris

By the pics you need a lot of work done. Where are you located.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...rams&FORM=IGRE

Crutchfeild has wiring diagram's for almost every application you can think of, That link you get you in you just have to learn how to navigate from there.