I would tear it all out, use a Fusion deck, I think it is really cool that you can connect it to the Garmin. Speakers, JL is probably the best out there, and if you can go to the 8.8's that would be great, but if you want to reuse the fountain covers or not go bigger, just put in 6.5's. I have had great luck with kicker speakers and subs, and they are much more affordable. One thing that I have is a stereo remote mounted on the swim platform, it is great for using the stereo while swimming or just sitting on the sun pad. The new digital amps I think are better then the old stuff, however, I am sure many would argue otherwise. They draw much less power, and are much more compact than the old ones. However, some of the older amps put out crazy power and will last forever.

Looks like the JL Audio amps and speakers and the Fusion deck/remote will do the trick. On the JL speakers, the tweeters are built into the grilles so it doesn't look like I will be able to keep the Fountain covers if I go this route, but the sound quality is the important thing here. The JL audio grilles look pretty decent anyway.. Keep the suggestions coming guys... help me spend my money... LOL....

Fusion is the only way to go! Total control of speaker "zones", the ability to link to NMEA 2000 backbone to talk to smartcraft, chartplotters, etc. The wired remote also will display some gauge functions, speed, etc.

I agree with a Fusion head unit, I would say JL or Wet Sounds for speakers. 8" for sure + 10" or 12" subs if they fit. I would use only Wet Sounds Amps, you could use two of the WS 10" 2 ohm subs, and then have eight 8" JL or WS coax speakers all using one SD6 amp. Or if 12" subs will fit add a second WS amp and make yourself deaf. :)

If you are using your Ipad, Iphone or other tablet or phone to play your tunes with then ditch the head unit all together.. You dont need it. Unless you just have to bring your old poison cd's from the 90's. You can buy a bluetooth to rca adapter and then no need for the head unit if you are using amps. Get you a couple amps and a crossover like this one

http://www.carid.com/lanzar/3-way-vi...bTERoChyzw_wcB

and run the bluetooth to rca adapter to the input. No wires and no mess. I use this method with a samsung tablet and navionics marine gps program. I have my phone set up as a hotspot using foxfi app and let the tablet gets internet from the phone. That way if you dont have the song you want with you , you can turn on youtube and play away all while running the gps. The crossover listed above is just for an example. i use a different brand and dont know anything abut the quality of that unit.

Chris

The Fusion deck sounds interesting but there is no information on any sound processing capabilities and deck adjustments on their site. I have not used or seen one work or head one so forgive me if I may have some misconceptions about its capabilities. For me these fine adjustments are key as I like to dial everything in from the head unit rather than the amps themselves since they are always buried under something and hard to get to when required. Each music type or source typically requires adjustments if you want things to sound their best and I am picky in that respect.

Head unit I have (which is a carry over from an upgrade in another vehicle):

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/UserFiles/.../us/index.html

Not current production but can be found on the cheap and will fit in existing location. If you are an audiophile this has the most adjustments I have found in a single DIN application. (far beyond simple "bass" and "treble"). Loaded with features and plays music videos on the little screen and can output to larger screen. Bluetooth, camera inputs, multi zone, Pandora, etc, etc. One of the few that has an IPod interface that lets you control the IPod with the IPod rather than using the deck menus which I like. If going this route check the compatibility lists for your devices however. Not saying you must buy this but it has worked out well for me and my tastes.


Just that change alone with the proper adjustments and replacing the cheap interconnects that were previously installed has REALLY woken up my system in the boats current configuration. As stated previous you may just be able to change a few components to be happy rather than ditching the whole setup!

Future sub amp:
http://www.jlaudio.com/mhd750-1-mari...plifiers-98225
I have the non marine version in a truck I have and it is phenomenal! Class D (less power draw) with low THD so a great choice. If you are installing it in your cabin though you could save some money and go for the non marine unit. Mine will be going under my rear bench and will be subject to moisture however...


Future satellite amp:
http://www.jlaudio.com/mhd600-4-mari...plifiers-98224 Because I want more power which should really wake up my old school MB Quart marines. Very clean and powerful amp with same low THD as above.

RF remote system:
http://www.ideasthatfloat.com/8buttoninfo.html

I didn't want to drill anything in my boat for proprietary remotes for decks that will likely be upgraded in the future and this one is waterproof, floats and is RF. I have installed it but have yet to test its range when anchored and standing on shore but should do the trick!


If I were buying new satellites and subs I would go JL "M" series without question...

If I were you I would swap out your Frankenstein'd deck and upgrade your interconnects and see what it all sounded like first!

If you use a Wetsounds SD amp, you need a spare stereo only battery per amp or you will kill your boat batteries on a regular basis. They are great amps, but extremely power hungry.

any boat should have at least two batteries, one for starting only and one for other electrical loads. Yes you will need sufficient battery capacity for your amps, and the Wetsounds don't use more power than any other amp to provide the same output.

I am leaning towards the JL amps and JL speakers. How are they on power draw? I have 4 batteries in my boat. 3 batteries for the engines and other electrical loads and one battery dedicated to the generator. I'm not 100% sure how the batteries are wired although there are three battery selector switches under my rear bench and logic would imply one for each engine, but they are 1/2/ALL switches and I've yet to really determine how they work. The cabin power switch on the helm only seems to work with the middle switch. I rarely use the generator, so that battery could be a candidate to power the amps.

For the same speakers at the same volume the power draw will be nearly the same for any modern amp you install. If you are going to be anchored up all day and cranking the tunes, one battery won't cut it. If you move around and have some run time to recharge you might be ok. Really just depends how loud you play it. I am guessing up there you don't spend all day in the water like we do here, so you don't need to have it s loud if you are in the boat. If you are going to stay with 6.5's and 1 sub you will be fine. You can do that off of one JL amp also.