battery switch explanation
#1
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So, I have two batteries and two battery switches on my 32 fever. From the best I can tell, my port side is a deep cell battery connected to the port side switch. The starboard is just a regular battery operating off its own switch.
Both switches have to option of 1-2-off. Can someone explain to me, in very simple terms, what settings do what? I. E. If both switches are on setting "1" vs only one switch on setting "2".
What should my setting be when underway, anchored using the stereo etc.
Thanks!
Both switches have to option of 1-2-off. Can someone explain to me, in very simple terms, what settings do what? I. E. If both switches are on setting "1" vs only one switch on setting "2".
What should my setting be when underway, anchored using the stereo etc.
Thanks!
#2
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,169
Likes: 82
From: Henderson, KY
Your current situation seems strange to me. Each engine needs a starting battery, as the amp draw when starting an engine is high and relatively short. Starting batteries are able to recover from a high amp draw that is short in time. Deep cycle batteries operate best on relatively low amp draw over longer periods of time (stereo or trolling motor, etc).
This is the way I handle my switches. I point the arrow on the switch to the engine it is powering. This keeps it very simple (at least in my twisted mind). In my case (when I'm running the boat), port engine switch is set on 2 - starboard engine swtich is set on 1. I never run on "BOTH" and I don't recommend that anyone does. Lot's will tell you that "I run on both all the time and have never had a problem". Maybe they have, but the batteries will never get to true "excite" voltage while on both due to the alternators starting to fight each other at that "excite" voltage.
If one engine battery fails while on the hook, you can temporarily switch to the opposite battery to get the engine started - but should turn the switch back to the respective battery. When doing this, do not pass "OFF" on the switch while the engine is running - that can damage electronics and or ECU's.
If you are running a loud stereo or fans or refrigerator while on the hook, your best option is to install a 3rd "house" battery with a separate switch (and an ACR, in my opinion). That is what I did on my boat, and I can blast the stereo or fans all day long (well maybe not ALL day LOL) and still start my engines when ready to leave.
Good luck.
This is the way I handle my switches. I point the arrow on the switch to the engine it is powering. This keeps it very simple (at least in my twisted mind). In my case (when I'm running the boat), port engine switch is set on 2 - starboard engine swtich is set on 1. I never run on "BOTH" and I don't recommend that anyone does. Lot's will tell you that "I run on both all the time and have never had a problem". Maybe they have, but the batteries will never get to true "excite" voltage while on both due to the alternators starting to fight each other at that "excite" voltage.
If one engine battery fails while on the hook, you can temporarily switch to the opposite battery to get the engine started - but should turn the switch back to the respective battery. When doing this, do not pass "OFF" on the switch while the engine is running - that can damage electronics and or ECU's.
If you are running a loud stereo or fans or refrigerator while on the hook, your best option is to install a 3rd "house" battery with a separate switch (and an ACR, in my opinion). That is what I did on my boat, and I can blast the stereo or fans all day long (well maybe not ALL day LOL) and still start my engines when ready to leave.
Good luck.
#3
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,311
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From: Merritt Island, FL
I have a 32 fever.
Your port battery is the "house" battery. It is the one that powers your cockpit lights, cabin lights etc.
The switches can be ran a number of ways but easy rider is right, Never run it on both and I do the same as him, point the arrow towards that motor. As for running the stereo the head unit will feed off of the port, amps it depends on where they wired them. I assume if the person had half a brain to put a deep cycle in they ran it to port battery.
So if you did kill it while anchored just do as easy said and start the port motor using the other battery and switch over to charge the dead one.
A third battery would be nice but as you know not a lot of room in 32's. There was a guy on here that moved his forward so that he would get to them from the side gunwale door.
Cheers,
Your port battery is the "house" battery. It is the one that powers your cockpit lights, cabin lights etc.
The switches can be ran a number of ways but easy rider is right, Never run it on both and I do the same as him, point the arrow towards that motor. As for running the stereo the head unit will feed off of the port, amps it depends on where they wired them. I assume if the person had half a brain to put a deep cycle in they ran it to port battery.
So if you did kill it while anchored just do as easy said and start the port motor using the other battery and switch over to charge the dead one.
A third battery would be nice but as you know not a lot of room in 32's. There was a guy on here that moved his forward so that he would get to them from the side gunwale door.
Cheers,
Last edited by Wildman_grafix; 08-25-2016 at 08:32 PM.
#4
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Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,201
Likes: 89
From: Atlantic Southeast
Your current situation seems strange to me. Each engine needs a starting battery, as the amp draw when starting an engine is high and relatively short. Starting batteries are able to recover from a high amp draw that is short in time. Deep cycle batteries operate best on relatively low amp draw over longer periods of time (stereo or trolling motor, etc).
This is the way I handle my switches. I point the arrow on the switch to the engine it is powering. This keeps it very simple (at least in my twisted mind). In my case (when I'm running the boat), port engine switch is set on 2 - starboard engine swtich is set on 1. I never run on "BOTH" and I don't recommend that anyone does. Lot's will tell you that "I run on both all the time and have never had a problem". Maybe they have, but the batteries will never get to true "excite" voltage while on both due to the alternators starting to fight each other at that "excite" voltage.
If one engine battery fails while on the hook, you can temporarily switch to the opposite battery to get the engine started - but should turn the switch back to the respective battery. When doing this, do not pass "OFF" on the switch while the engine is running - that can damage electronics and or ECU's.
If you are running a loud stereo or fans or refrigerator while on the hook, your best option is to install a 3rd "house" battery with a separate switch (and an ACR, in my opinion). That is what I did on my boat, and I can blast the stereo or fans all day long (well maybe not ALL day LOL) and still start my engines when ready to leave.
Good luck.
This is the way I handle my switches. I point the arrow on the switch to the engine it is powering. This keeps it very simple (at least in my twisted mind). In my case (when I'm running the boat), port engine switch is set on 2 - starboard engine swtich is set on 1. I never run on "BOTH" and I don't recommend that anyone does. Lot's will tell you that "I run on both all the time and have never had a problem". Maybe they have, but the batteries will never get to true "excite" voltage while on both due to the alternators starting to fight each other at that "excite" voltage.
If one engine battery fails while on the hook, you can temporarily switch to the opposite battery to get the engine started - but should turn the switch back to the respective battery. When doing this, do not pass "OFF" on the switch while the engine is running - that can damage electronics and or ECU's.
If you are running a loud stereo or fans or refrigerator while on the hook, your best option is to install a 3rd "house" battery with a separate switch (and an ACR, in my opinion). That is what I did on my boat, and I can blast the stereo or fans all day long (well maybe not ALL day LOL) and still start my engines when ready to leave.
Good luck.
I currently have 2 deep cycles so I was going to add a combo start/deep to pole #2 of each switch (1 wire that wye's) and then hook each deep cycle to pole #1 of each switch independently. See Perko Switch Diag. #3
#5
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,169
Likes: 82
From: Henderson, KY
Google Blue Seas ACR, and download their PDF. Very easy - basic one wire installation (a fuse or two, some wire, and some zip ties).
I'm in the process of adding a third battery to a twin engine setup with 2 batteries and 2 switches. Is there a schematic to where you're adding the 3rd battery and switch? Drawing off which alternator (in my case)?
I currently have 2 deep cycles so I was going to add a combo start/deep to pole #2 of each switch (1 wire that wye's) and then hook each deep cycle to pole #1 of each switch independently. See Perko Switch Diag. #3
I currently have 2 deep cycles so I was going to add a combo start/deep to pole #2 of each switch (1 wire that wye's) and then hook each deep cycle to pole #1 of each switch independently. See Perko Switch Diag. #3
#6
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
From: Spokane, WA
Great question and I was told wrong by a mechanic right from the start. I have a 32 Fever, same setup. I'd been switching to both while starting and underway and then when stopped setting Starboard to Off and Port set to #1. Now that I know that's not good is it safe to say I can run Port switch set on #1 and the Starboard switch on #2 and then not even worry about switching them when stopped since the cabin power and stereo only pulls off #1?
On an extension of this... if I run my stereo all day 1 battery wont do it so I eventually switch port switch to #2 and run that battery dead too. Then I have to use a jump starter box to get started. A 3rd battery would be nice but I'd probably just kill that too.
On an extension of this... if I run my stereo all day 1 battery wont do it so I eventually switch port switch to #2 and run that battery dead too. Then I have to use a jump starter box to get started. A 3rd battery would be nice but I'd probably just kill that too.
#7
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 866
Likes: 253
From: Portland, OR
I have a 32 fever.
Your port battery is the "house" battery. It is the one that powers your cockpit lights, cabin lights etc.
The switches can be ran a number of ways but easy rider is right, Never run it on both and I do the same as him, point the arrow towards that motor. As for running the stereo the head unit will feed off of the port, amps it depends on where they wired them. I assume if the person had half a brain to put a deep cycle in they ran it to port battery.
So if you did kill it while anchored just do as easy said and start the port motor using the other battery and switch over to charge the dead one.
A third battery would be nice but as you know not a lot of room in 32's. There was a guy on here that moved his forward so that he would get to them from the side gunwale door.
Cheers,
Your port battery is the "house" battery. It is the one that powers your cockpit lights, cabin lights etc.
The switches can be ran a number of ways but easy rider is right, Never run it on both and I do the same as him, point the arrow towards that motor. As for running the stereo the head unit will feed off of the port, amps it depends on where they wired them. I assume if the person had half a brain to put a deep cycle in they ran it to port battery.
So if you did kill it while anchored just do as easy said and start the port motor using the other battery and switch over to charge the dead one.
A third battery would be nice but as you know not a lot of room in 32's. There was a guy on here that moved his forward so that he would get to them from the side gunwale door.
Cheers,



