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calling the OSO 12 volt braintrust, in 3 parts
as always, thank you in advance for the responses and input.
PART 1 : from the battery switch "on side". there are 2, 12ga.circuits to the dash and a 12 ga ground to bus. #1 for bilge pump, blower, running lights and radio, all grounds to bus on dash #2 for the drive lube pump only, ground to engine block from battery switch "on side" to drive trim pump and ground to battery, both 10 ga. this power jumps to the kplanes as it was originally except drive pump was moved. from the battery switch "hot side" to the float/bilge pump and ground to battery. ground cable -- battery to block = 5' 8" power cable -- battery to switch hot side then from switch "on side" to starter = 15' 9" the starting circuit is part 3, let me get the accy's powered up and pumps bled first. my questions are, what battery cable size ? does anybody see anything wrong or missing or whatever. ? i sacrificed an old extension cord to dummy up the battery cables and the power / ground for the 3 pumps will get put in loom. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a17bb264d9.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2aec5d0919.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4dc658de88.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...56053bea70.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...08b0b66151.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...33d71e9b2b.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...990b15bfd8.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...aa9bd3a35e.jpg |
Depending on location of battery switch you might consider hot to hatch actuator and trim motor/s and bilge pump. Also if you are running MerCathodes anti fowling I believe there also go to battery hot. Good luck,
Bigger wire is better, marine wire best. Extra ground to dash Good waterproof connectors with heat shrink Buy a GOOD crimping tool, NOT the $8 auto parts store version ! Follow Marine Standard color scheme and make a wiring diagram. If docking lights or future electronics are in the mix extra power wire to dash, remember you need as much ground wire as power. Good Luck |
part 2 grounding the tank
the new tank rests on non conductive no corrosion rubber strips and is thru bolted into the stringers in 6 places.
it does not have an electrical sending unit in/on the tank, the sending unit is a mechanical sight gauge. i don't know if grounding from one of the filler thru bolts to the tank grounding tab is adequate or if i should go filler to ground bus to tank tab, or to block or battery. appreciate the input / advice https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ec824e6c3b.jpg |
Originally Posted by GLENAMY 242SS
(Post 4639511)
Depending on location of battery switch you might consider hot to hatch actuator and trim motor/s and bilge pump. Also if you are running MerCathodes anti fowling I believe there also go to battery hot. Good luck,
Bigger wire is better, marine wire best. Extra ground to dash Good waterproof connectors with heat shrink Buy a GOOD crimping tool, NOT the $8 auto parts store version ! Follow Marine Standard color scheme and make a wiring diagram. If docking lights or future electronics are in the mix extra power wire to dash, remember you need as much ground wire as power. Good Luck battery switch location is first pic second ground will be part of ignition circuit unless there is a good reason to have an extra one up there, don't know ? no actuator, no mercathode. all wire is tinned marine, all connectors are heat shrink type and i did buy a nice ratcheting crimping tool, wow couldn't live w/out it now. battery cable from interstate where i got the battery from, and i will specify marine grade. also fuses for the circuits from the battery switch are not installed yet thank you did use the boat color code, actually the original wiring-- blue, yellow, orange, brown and trim/tab harness are o.k. and back in with some adjustments, the only new wiring is battery cables, the trim power, the lube pump and the circuits to the dash, the ignition circuit / safety lanyard is also new. |
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a minimum of 1/0 for the ground and battery feed to the block and starter, and same size from battery to perko switches
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thanks f-2,
doesn't the starting cable go battery to switch to starter ? or am i reading your post wrong or too much into it ? interstate said they will make the cables for me while i wait, hopefully they have the cable ends i need and don't look cross eyed at me when i give them the lengths to the inch. |
Im simply stating that every connection to the components in my post above is 1/0 or larger, no particular order of connection
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Ground wire from filler stud, to gas tank, to ground buss. This isnt for an electrical sending unit. Its for static electricty
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Originally Posted by outonsafari
(Post 4639550)
doesn't the starting cable go battery to switch to starter ?
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thank you,
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Part 3 ignition, never did it before
Cant log into outonsafari so have to continue this way.
The ignition circuit (wiring harness ) has me confused, originally i wanted to splice into it at the engine cannon plug but i dont know if the pcm would like that. Example, battery to switch off side Switch on side to purple wire @ engine harness Switch on side to momentary Momentary to red w/ yellow tracer @ engine harness And a ground to the bus bar. The wiring harness has a 10ga red wire in it and the installation instructions Say it can have accys on it not over 30 amps. Is that wire hot ? How is hot? Can that be my 'to switch off side wire' ? What i need is a flow chart in the simplest terms that includes the alarm horn, kill switch and nuetral safety switch, the diagrams online are passing me up, and the 10ga wire in the harness If not used 'to switch off side', then what, and would an ignition only circuit from the battery have to be 10ga I think it would go battery-switch-kill-nuetral-purple = completed circuit and running The ignition switch is an on / off toggle and a button start. Any help is greatly appreciated. |
On the first 4 pics, this stuff that came with the merc monitor. The mercmonitor i got is the round one that goes into a gauge hole, its called smart tow.
Anybody know if any of it is needed to power up the blue cable and/or the merc monitor ? No installation instructions came with it, only instructions are how to use it, but you need to be on the geek sqaud to understand it all. Whatever isnt needed will be given to for free and i will pay for shipping to whoever can clearly explain how it goes together so it works. All i want the merc monitor to do is be the engine gauges so i can scroll thru them or set as the important gauges. It plugs into the engine no problem 5th pic, and the last pic is the gauge side. I have the gender cable that goes between the blue cable and monitor but have no idea what those other wires are for. Again all the un needed stuff is new and unopened, and will be given to whoever can set me straight. There is also a white and chrome bezel for the mercmonitor not pictured that is included Thank you. On the ignition circuit, i bought another kill switch and it came with instructions as to where it goes as far as wiring. The boat side wiring harness came with instructions i couldnt see on the internet and it shows nuetral safety, kill switch, and alarm horn so that issue worked itself out. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...46cb58fed5.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...91321d2362.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b37a5d1953.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...37b97b0493.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0010c0d8cf.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1a1bd0e186.jpg |
Mercury got me sqaured away on the merc monitor.
I did need the "harness version 6.0" that is pictured, it goes from the gauge to the gender cable which then plugs into the blue cable. The usb wire and what looks like a cable tv splitter, as well as the "harness monitor power adapter" i dont need and i think there is a couple more harness new in the bag that came with the transom assy That may or may not be worth anything, either way ill get it all dug out and pictured, some one can just have it. The wiring on the boat including the mercmonitor is completed 100 percent, but on the monitor harness there is an air temp sensor plug, and the monitor i bought came with the sensor (pictured). The plug ended up right by the pvc tube on the starb side under the dash and i have enough wire, loom, connectors and shrink wrap leftover to make its own harness and install the air temp sensor in the engine room. Thought it might be good to have engine room temp while running. Install locations could be ; -at the end of the pvc tube in the engine room -at the battery -starboard stringer -center of the transom, on transom / lube bottle / lube pump areas -or on the engine cover either rear center or front center above the air intake The engine is a 496 mag. Any opinions on this ? Try to get pics up tomorrow and update the restoration thread as well Thanks |
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