calling the OSO 12 volt braintrust, in 3 parts
07-23-2018, 02:07 PM
#1
calling the OSO 12 volt braintrust, in 3 parts
as always, thank you in advance for the responses and input.
PART 1 :
from the battery switch "on side". there are 2, 12ga.circuits to the dash and a 12 ga ground to bus.
#1 for bilge pump, blower, running lights and radio, all grounds to bus on dash
#2 for the drive lube pump only, ground to engine block
from battery switch "on side" to drive trim pump and ground to battery, both 10 ga.
this power jumps to the kplanes as it was originally except drive pump was moved.
from the battery switch "hot side" to the float/bilge pump and ground to battery.
ground cable -- battery to block = 5' 8"
power cable -- battery to switch hot side then from switch "on side" to starter = 15' 9"
the starting circuit is part 3, let me get the accy's powered up and pumps bled first.
my questions are, what battery cable size ?
does anybody see anything wrong or missing or whatever. ?
i sacrificed an old extension cord to dummy up the battery cables and the power / ground for the 3 pumps
will get put in loom.
PART 1 :
from the battery switch "on side". there are 2, 12ga.circuits to the dash and a 12 ga ground to bus.
#1 for bilge pump, blower, running lights and radio, all grounds to bus on dash
#2 for the drive lube pump only, ground to engine block
from battery switch "on side" to drive trim pump and ground to battery, both 10 ga.
this power jumps to the kplanes as it was originally except drive pump was moved.
from the battery switch "hot side" to the float/bilge pump and ground to battery.
ground cable -- battery to block = 5' 8"
power cable -- battery to switch hot side then from switch "on side" to starter = 15' 9"
the starting circuit is part 3, let me get the accy's powered up and pumps bled first.
my questions are, what battery cable size ?
does anybody see anything wrong or missing or whatever. ?
i sacrificed an old extension cord to dummy up the battery cables and the power / ground for the 3 pumps
will get put in loom.
Last edited by outonsafari; 07-23-2018 at 02:41 PM.
07-23-2018, 02:24 PM
#2
Depending on location of battery switch you might consider hot to hatch actuator and trim motor/s and bilge pump. Also if you are running MerCathodes anti fowling I believe there also go to battery hot. Good luck,
Bigger wire is better, marine wire best.
Extra ground to dash
Good waterproof connectors with heat shrink
Buy a GOOD crimping tool, NOT the $8 auto parts store version !
Follow Marine Standard color scheme and make a wiring diagram.
If docking lights or future electronics are in the mix extra power wire to dash, remember you need as much ground wire as power.
Good Luck
Bigger wire is better, marine wire best.
Extra ground to dash
Good waterproof connectors with heat shrink
Buy a GOOD crimping tool, NOT the $8 auto parts store version !
Follow Marine Standard color scheme and make a wiring diagram.
If docking lights or future electronics are in the mix extra power wire to dash, remember you need as much ground wire as power.
Good Luck
07-23-2018, 02:24 PM
#3
part 2 grounding the tank
the new tank rests on non conductive no corrosion rubber strips and is thru bolted into the stringers in 6 places.
it does not have an electrical sending unit in/on the tank, the sending unit is a mechanical sight gauge.
i don't know if grounding from one of the filler thru bolts to the tank grounding tab is adequate
or if i should go filler to ground bus to tank tab, or to block or battery.
appreciate the input / advice
it does not have an electrical sending unit in/on the tank, the sending unit is a mechanical sight gauge.
i don't know if grounding from one of the filler thru bolts to the tank grounding tab is adequate
or if i should go filler to ground bus to tank tab, or to block or battery.
appreciate the input / advice
07-23-2018, 02:37 PM
#4
Depending on location of battery switch you might consider hot to hatch actuator and trim motor/s and bilge pump. Also if you are running MerCathodes anti fowling I believe there also go to battery hot. Good luck,
Bigger wire is better, marine wire best.
Extra ground to dash
Good waterproof connectors with heat shrink
Buy a GOOD crimping tool, NOT the $8 auto parts store version !
Follow Marine Standard color scheme and make a wiring diagram.
If docking lights or future electronics are in the mix extra power wire to dash, remember you need as much ground wire as power.
Good Luck
Bigger wire is better, marine wire best.
Extra ground to dash
Good waterproof connectors with heat shrink
Buy a GOOD crimping tool, NOT the $8 auto parts store version !
Follow Marine Standard color scheme and make a wiring diagram.
If docking lights or future electronics are in the mix extra power wire to dash, remember you need as much ground wire as power.
Good Luck
battery switch location is first pic
second ground will be part of ignition circuit unless there is a good reason to have an extra one up there, don't know ?
no actuator, no mercathode.
all wire is tinned marine, all connectors are heat shrink type and i did buy a nice ratcheting
crimping tool, wow couldn't live w/out it now.
battery cable from interstate where i got the battery from, and i will specify marine grade.
also fuses for the circuits from the battery switch are not installed yet
thank you
did use the boat color code, actually the original wiring-- blue, yellow, orange, brown and trim/tab harness
are o.k. and back in with some adjustments, the only new wiring is battery cables, the trim power, the lube pump
and the circuits to the dash, the ignition circuit / safety lanyard is also new.
Last edited by outonsafari; 07-23-2018 at 02:58 PM. Reason: color code, diagram and extras
07-23-2018, 03:42 PM
#6
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
iTrader: (6)
a minimum of 1/0 for the ground and battery feed to the block and starter, and same size from battery to perko switches
07-23-2018, 04:39 PM
#7
thanks f-2,
doesn't the starting cable go battery to switch to starter ?
or am i reading your post wrong or too much into it ?
interstate said they will make the cables for me while i wait, hopefully they have
the cable ends i need and don't look cross eyed at me when i give them the lengths
to the inch.
doesn't the starting cable go battery to switch to starter ?
or am i reading your post wrong or too much into it ?
interstate said they will make the cables for me while i wait, hopefully they have
the cable ends i need and don't look cross eyed at me when i give them the lengths
to the inch.
07-23-2018, 04:51 PM
#8
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
iTrader: (6)
Im simply stating that every connection to the components in my post above is 1/0 or larger, no particular order of connection
07-23-2018, 09:34 PM
#9
Charter Member
Ground wire from filler stud, to gas tank, to ground buss. This isnt for an electrical sending unit. Its for static electricty
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
07-23-2018, 09:38 PM
#10
Yes. Thats the norm. The switch is there to disconnect the batteries from everything in case of an emergency. With exception of Mercathode and bilge pump. Those are to be unswitched.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
