Ignition breaker keeps popping
#21
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Disconnected that plug and the 2 going to the coil/distributor and it still pops. Im asumming they are the only disconnects. I guess that points us at the dash?
#22
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Yep, at the dash, the kill switch or the engine connector to the dash.
The purple wire goes from the key to the kill switch and then to each gauge and back to the engine. So anywhere along, if there is a place where the insulation rubbed thru or one of the gauges could be shorting out.
Could remove the purple off ever gauge and if it stops, then start putting it back on one by one, or just remove one at a time and test
Another thought, is if the breaker has gone bad, but don't think this is the issue because your not hearing the fuel pump turn on
The purple wire goes from the key to the kill switch and then to each gauge and back to the engine. So anywhere along, if there is a place where the insulation rubbed thru or one of the gauges could be shorting out.
Could remove the purple off ever gauge and if it stops, then start putting it back on one by one, or just remove one at a time and test
Another thought, is if the breaker has gone bad, but don't think this is the issue because your not hearing the fuel pump turn on
#23
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I was afraid of that. I have swapped out the breaker with the port side amd back again. So I would make the breaker "good". Guess I will start with the gauges. So again I am assuming, if I start at one side of the dash and go to the other side one gauge at a time that I only have to remove the purple wire connector because everything is in series?
#24
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Yes
Also when removing the purple wire, the terminal lug should stay connected to the other gauges. If you find there are 2 lugs on the one stud, both purple, they need to both be removed but kept together during testing, or the circuit will be disconnected to the other gauges
Also when removing the purple wire, the terminal lug should stay connected to the other gauges. If you find there are 2 lugs on the one stud, both purple, they need to both be removed but kept together during testing, or the circuit will be disconnected to the other gauges
#25
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So I finally got time to chase this electrical issue and maybe I found something im not sure. The purple wire runs across the back of every gauge in series on the starboard side of the dash panel. When it gets to the last gauge in the series which is the Oil Pressure gauge a 6-8 inch purple wire comes off the oil pressure gauge to a female post connector and stops. The port side has a purple and white stripe wire connecting the gauges in series. So the Purple/white wire after the Oil Pressure gauge connects to a very thin pink wire that is in a sleeve of wires that appear to go to my compass. There is a larger blue wire that connects to a thin white wire and a large black wire connected to a thin black wire. Those thin wires Pink, black and white are in a sleeve with other thin wires that are just cut flush. A light brown, light blue and light green wire. Is the large Purple wire supposed to just end into a open connector or is it supposed to connect to something. I wish I paid my subscription fee so I could post a picture.
#26
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you can post pic's now even if a non-paying member. So,post it up.
#27
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Starboard ... oil pressure gauge to a female post connector and stops
Is the large Purple wire supposed to just end into a open connector
#29
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May have found something. Disconnected the purple wire from the tach and the breaker did not pop. However the fuel pump and the buzzer under the dash are still not beeping or running and it will not crank. Still looking for answer.