outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

Tach, fuel, oil pressure, water temp, volt & hour meter. A good keyed ingition switch

I'm not an engine guy at all but think the gauges will need sensors as well.
i have the wire to make a new harness but need more connectors and loom like i used on the raceboat.

anyone who wants to throw up a wiring diagram for a carb and electronic ignition distributor engine that would be a big help
thanks guys.

Rookie

iTrader: (4)

It should be wired to ABYC marine standard. You can Google for more wore colors and senders.
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvis...nal-Tech-Specs

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

Thanks rookie, i have the abyc and the color coded wire. I can wire the boat but when i turn to the engine i'm totally lost, it's the ignition, distributor and electric choke, the engine turns into a bomb and i go all which wire where.

the race boat wasn't so bad it's smart craft and both ends of the wire are different so no chance of it going off.
the ski boat is 1979 ford reverse rotation ballast, ballast jumped, amp meter, something spliced juggernaut
and the circuit breaker button speeds up the timer.
the points distributor was converted to electric, so that confuses me more.

no one has a reasonably priced "non-frankenstein-corroded-on it's last leg" running 350 engine with a mercury harness i can just plug in. I would rather buy an engine & a LH prop and leave this mess to the bomb sqaud.

i literally just right now understand why everyone wants outboard, they just plug in !

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

https://marinepartssource.com/arctic...ra-68388p.html


ok, going good so far, i opened up my parts bin, i have wire, fuse holders, color coded heat shrink, cushion clamps, screws, etc, enough to rig this thing with leftovers.

i ordered the gauges in the above link, it doesnt come with an hour meter but i have an unopened clock to fill that hole and the speedo in that kit i don't need, i also ordered a brass ignition and toggle switches.


Kudos to that place, that's where everything else is coming from for both boats, i asked about sending units and he said unless the old gauges were vdo you'll be fine, theres only a few manufactures they all work with regular gauges and he has thousands in stock with different threads.


everywhere else said you need special sending units for the gauges and a guy on an island in the south pacific makes them so they're on back order and cost out the butt, he's out sick and the apprentice can't hammer forge anything on his own yet.


took the radio out of the race boat because it says bluetooth but doesnt work with bluetooth speakers, they need to be wired, never had tunes in that boat but I'll cut speaker holes in the ski boat.

to fill the hole in the dash i ordered a gps that requires a slightly larger hole, power is right there. For 75 bucks i bet it's accurate.

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

the gauge kit came yesterday, they're nice, in the box is instructions everything to install and the pick up and speedo tube.


-now i'm thinking put the tach and speedo in the gauge pod and the radio in the tach hole above the steering probably won't be able to fiddle with it while driving.

-or the the gauge pod blank, lose the speedo and put the radio in the middle of the dash berween the seats.


the gps came today, it fills the radio hole in the raceboat dash, the thing has an antenna and either on/off button behind or a remote button.

things work out it'll get tested in a couple weeks as the boat might be in the spectator fleet up at cocoa.