Snakehorse,

If you decide to go that route, don't get carried away. One 8" is P-L-E-N-T-Y. I've got mine turned down to about 1.5-2 on the volume, and (I think) -6dB bass in the head unit, and, along with four 6.5 3-way rounds, it sounds awesome while we're swimming, and will run you out of the cockpit at full volume. It's a powered sub tube, so no need for high current speaker wires or separate amp; just RCAs. It shakes and thumps the hull, but nothing rattles, because it's not contained.

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Just trying to get to 10 posts to post pictures .

I just installed an entire JL system in my boat.

6 - M6 7.7's
1 - M6 10" sub
1- M600/6 amp
1- M600/1 sub amp

The system sounds amazing other than the bass. 1 10" open air sub is not nearly enough. I already want to re-glass under my rear bench and add 1 or 2 more subs.

Concept,

I’d seriously suggest Bazooka tubes. I’d venture to say that a single 10” powered tube would be more than enough. If it isn’t, two will be.

As I said, I have a single 8”, which is the lower power option they offer (they have a 100W and a 300W, I think), I’ve only got it at about 1.5-2 on the output volume, and the bass set at (I think) -6dB in the head unit, and it’s absolutely plenty.

Thanks. Brad
(947)545-8991

My last boat I put the one JL 10" sub and 6 of the 7.7s....it was more than enough sound for me and sounded great. I did run one JL amp for the 7.7s and one 600w separately for the sub. Their amps were nice and compact and I had to run the sub amp turned way down about half. I don't need to be the loudest boat in the tie up but it had enough bass to shake stuff apart and was louder than anyone could handle.

My new Formula has the factory installed JL sub and either Clarion or Memphis 6.5s...I can't tell and haven't taken them out.. It has 1 Memphis Audio amp powering 6 of the 6.5s and the sub on a 300w channel. It sounds good and clear but is not nearly as powerful. I'll probably replace those with the JL 7.7s if there is room.

Has anyone gone from a base M3 JL sub up to an M7 without an enclosure and noticed a difference?

Anyone have an idea how long 2- 150 reserve capacity batteries will run a 2300watt system?
internet is all over the map from 15 minutes to almost 2.5 hours. I would never play at full power for very long, but I figure if I can calculate it at full volume, then I have more time than that at lower volume levels.

I went Kicker in my Baja 342. The same set up in JL would have been nearly twice the money. I have heard JL systems in other boats and they are crystal clear and powerful. The other reason besides price was availability, the best is in high demand and a lot of stuff was back ordered indefinitely. Hopefully my mid level system sounds good, still waiting for a few things to arrive so I can get started. the 8s and the 6.5s holes were pre determined by the previous owner. the installation was top level, I just cant understand why anyone would go to that trouble for a very cheap china system. I will be pulling all new wires and doing a relocate for the amps and 3rd Battery. Subs are going in the rear bench, wish I had gone with 10s, my life would be easier. System is
Kenwood deck
2- 12" free air subs
6- 8"
4- 6.5"
1200watt sub amp
600 watt 6 channel (8s)
450 watt 4 channel (6.5s)
LEDs in all speakers with a controller
wired helm remote
I am gonna install a 2nd deck and 4ch w/ 4- 7.7 down in the cabin( recycling the china system).

If you're asking about going from a JL 10" to the M7 12", the difference is HUGE. (as well as the price)

I had 2 M6 10's in a sealed box (1 cu ft) with a M 600/1 and wasn't thrilled with the output. It did OK.

I now have 1 M7 12" in a sealed box (3 cu ft) with a MHD 750/1 and it shakes the emblem in my steering wheel. Way more output than the 2 10's

Truth be told, I'm a bass head and would LOVE to have 2 of the 12's installed. The 3 cu ft box is pretty big and takes up some space. If you do a free air application, I've read it's very important that the back side of the woofer is sealed air tight from the front.

Link to a short vid of the sub in action.

I actually had 2 - 12" subs in enclosures in my engine compartment that where in the boat when I bought it. I went to 2 - 10" M3's under the back seat and they actually sounded much better. I had to turn them down as they were so overpowering. It seems the under seat volume is perfect for the 10's and the M3's work well for this application.

My single M6 10" is under my rear bench. My rear bench isn't perfectly sealed either. But it isn't vibrating anything period.

I'm not a bass head by any means but it isn't nearly enough. It was to the point I actually had to check and make sure the cone was actually moving.

I set the gain/sensitivity per JL's manual using a multimeter as well.

I'm beginning to wonder if something may be wrong with it.

Did a small update to my audio setup. The boat currently had the following..

Two 8" DS18 Hydros
Two 6.5" DS18 Hydros
Two 10" JL M3 Subwoofers
Skar - 800w rms Monoblock
Skar - 500w rms 4 Channel

This did provide great sound but all of my speaker locations were pretty low in the boat so getting the sound outside was a challenge.

So for the updates I added two additional 6.5" Hydros mounted next to the top bolster seats and two 10" Ds18 Hydro speakers mounted next to my JL Audio subs. I got rid of the 4 channel amp and went with an 8 channel providing roughly 75rms per channel.
Never thought I would be throwing 10 speakers in the cockpit but why not lol.

Attachment 577525

Attachment 577526

Very well done, as always. Looks great!

Decided to build some subwoofer enclosures as well as purchased some new DS18 10" Subwoofers

https://i.imgur.com/OELnnWI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AyXMbMc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/44gx4Wl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/sl02euY.jpg

nex time you might consider duetch connector bulk head fittings for the LEDs wiring. works fine with the terminal cups, but the less holes in the enclosure the better. here's how i did a set up for a client. try raptor liner on amazon, looks better than bilge paint. but the resin is a great idea.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...203b8afddb.jpg

Thanks for the tips. Yes after drilling both holes for the wire terminals I had some regret. Especially how much time i put into sealing everything really good. I will look into that raptor liner. The subs already sound 10x better than when everything was free air. I am wondering if it would be worth it to install some passive radiators on these on the back side for some more volume.

That dont make a passive radiator big enough for that. They would have to be like 40 inches. or 4 10 inch.
Chris

I didn't realize the driver to radiator ratio was that drastic.