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Originally Posted by [email protected]
(Post 4811790)
I like your take on this. Well the amps I plan to go in the cabin of the boat so I would hope they see very little moisture. So maybe a non marine amp might make sense for me? Boat is also stored high and dry in the winter.
Thanks for your feedback, I just realized that JL has an M3 series and M6 which has a definite price hike! Thanks again for the help!
Originally Posted by xlint89
(Post 4811748)
Looks like you're looking at the budget end of the spectrum. (nothing wrong with that at all)
JL M3 6.5 speakers RMS at 60W JL M3 7.7 speakers RMS at 75W JL M3 10IB 10" subs RMS at 175W My recommendation would be the JL M 800/8 amplifier then It will supply 75W RMS to both the 6.5 and the 7.7 speakers. You then bridge the other 4 channels into 2 that RMS at 180W. So that's 180W to each of the 2 subs Be sure to adjust the gain on the amplifier properly, and you will have sufficient, clean power for all 6 speakers in that system. If you were to go to a pair of subs that require more power than 175W, I would have recommended 2 amps, but in this scenario it works out perfect for what you have laid out and should come in your amp price range.. If you have only a few hundred dollars wrapped up in amps your expectations are reasonable, if they last 4 or 5 years and they take a dump it was time for a refresh anyways. A boat in a wet climate wrapped up tight may have moisture issues and thats tough on any electronics. My suggestion is to mount them in such a manner it's possible to remove them and the deck to protect them from moisture and theft. it makes me smile when people talk about "clean clear sound" when they are talking about sound reproduction in open air, with high ambient background noise and poor speaker location. To me it's just background noise that ill crank it up every once and a while and then I'm not expecting it to sound like my home hi-fi system. By the time its all in your boat you have nothing to compare it to and as long as it relatively meets your reasonable requirements it's a win. I remember standing at the display board with a customer and switching between speakers and saying "can you hear the difference " and then having to coach the person on the finest of nuisances. Even if the person was deaf as a post they would nodd in agreement not wanting to appear uninformed or incapable of noticing such slight details and heaven forbid you had a nice car or boat with "inferior " components even if you were so deaf you can shoot a .50 cal and it sounds like a baby whisper. I'm not trying to shame anyone but in my humble opinion I've always suggested being honest with your true needs. I ain't putting on a fashion show for my friends and certainly not for some strangers. I see no need to have hundreds or thousands of extra dollars sitting in my boat not getting used. If I used my boat every weekend between mid May to mid September its only 16 times and I would rather have an extra $1000 in my savings account than strut around showing everyone some speakers I really don't care about. But thats me |
I have the M3's and with the right amps, tuning and placement they sound almost as good as my high end home theater system. I think I actually listen to it more in the winter while I'm working on the boat than I do in the summer driving the boat. I highly recommend getting a good sound meter and set the amps according to JL's instructions. Optimizing your crossover frequencies helps as well. I spent hours tuning the system after I installed it, huge difference.
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
(Post 4811715)
Lets pretend I can get all the speaker and head-unit for around 1500. So I have a $1000 budget for both amps. What two amps would you recommended?
I have a brand new Sony head unit I could be talked out of for about $100 shipped ConUS. I bought it because the Sony head unit that was in our PQ when we bought it had apparently given up, and we had two already installed "Sony" remote commanders. Turns out, they weren't Sony, and wouldn't work with the new Sony head unit. I ended up with Kenwood head unit and proprietary commanders, but I couldn't return the Sony head unit because it had already "been installed". It was installed for about a week, and sounded great, but never left my shop where I store the boat. It is still in the box, with all documentation and install parts. I originally paid about $180 for it, and I'd just like to recoup SOME of my losses. Sony Head Unit LMK. Thanks. Brad. Model Machine and Precision LLC (937)545-8991 |
That sounds like a good deal to me. Looks to have front & rear outputs along with sub out. Also has bluetooth. Can you send me a PM? Its not letting me send you one because I dont quite have 10 posts on this site yet lol.
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Wow it doesnt even let me view PM's until I have the 10 posts
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Post number 9
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Snake,
Just call me. Thanks. Brad. Model Machine and Precision LLC (937)545-8991 |
And post number 10
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I have a 272. I got 4 12" Kicker marine free air subs powered by a 900watt kicker sub amp. 8 JL 6.5" powered by a 550watt Kicker amp. It is loud and sounds very good in the cock pit, not as good when your out of the boat in the water. Holes were cut(under the bench seat) when I got the boat. I wish I had gone with enclosed subs, My friends with the enclosed set up sound WAY better especially out side the boat. a Kenwood marine head unit tops my system with top quality fuses, blocks, cables and wires. bout 3g into the system(I had a pretty good hook up on last years models). I am not disappointed, but if all the speaker holes were not cut I would have done it differently.
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You still interested n the Sony head unit? Thanks. Brad. Model Machine and Precision LLC (937)545-8991 |
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