2000 33 eliminator hop
 

Does anyone know what eliminator did to take away the hop on these boats. I already have a monster tab...

Boxes?

I have boxes on it

What year? What power/prop? Hops at what speed and are u able to drive thru it?

99 33 Daytona. Twin 598 1100 hp. 1000 ft pounds at 4100. Dynoed.. 36 bravo 1 props not labbed. I haven't tried to drive thru it yet because for 80-95 so far it scares the sh?t out of us. It's bad....

Has mt 4800 monster tab. Gets really squirrelly with tanks full too. Have boxes on it too.

I'll show the boyz the the shop and get their input...

5 blade cleaverish style props would most likely help. Hydromotive P5 would be a good choice. Bravo props do not impress me on most cats.

Are your props spinning in or out? Does anyone know if the Eliminators like the props turning in or out better?

What "type" of steps does your hull have? Hulls were re-designed around that time...

If the steps look "sawtooth", that is the older bottom...
If the steps look "square", that is after the re-do...

Re-tooling the bottom is the fix...you might also consider sponson tabs as an alternative...

INFO from Elim Shop production dept...

In for sure.....

Lift the tab up. Have you tried trimming the drives out? Sometimes running some cats flat will cause a porpoise. Every boat is different. The 33 is forgiving at the low speeds you are running now.

Yes, that big tab is only to aid in the initial roll-over and should be neutral thereafter...

Need to spin in for sure as it gives stern lift! Check drive toe as it should be straight to 1/8 in or the boat may become a handful at speed. Just my experience with my 33 daytona. If you run at speed with the tab down you better not have it more than 2 down on the gauge and NEVER try to turn with it down or you risk spinning out!

I've been told not to go past neutral on gauge for trim of drives. As far as 5 blades I don't want to tear up the drives or I would do it. She man can you show me pics of what you did differently on steps. Now I know why no one wants to buy a 2000 33 eliminator. I would like to fix this issue to be able to sell it and move up to a newer 36. Only because I like canopy look... nothing says hot rod like a 2001 on down daytona. Skater and mti are out of price range but I'm pretty diehard eliminator guy. Dreamed of them when I was young and now as I got older and have 2 I'm not impressed with this 33.

I have also been told spinning in is for speed but spin out for stern lift. Any opinions on that...

2004 33 Daytona Steps
http://www.smartcarguide.com/listimg..._1_LARGE_r.jpg

1999 33 Daytona Steps
http://www.powerboatlistings.com/pow...ator_2_019.jpg

I've got the lower ones

Boys in the shop said "Lower your X-dimension to cure the hop, but you will lose some top-end speed"...

Had tons of pm sent thanks everyone. Soon i will change my screen name. I have heard enough. Makes me sick too my stomach that I waited for a long time to get me a bigger eliminator and this is one big disappointment. I can't believe how 4 of you where treated.

Sorry to hear about your problems I had a1999 33 Daytona with big power and the retooled bottom. Bob Leach worked very hard on my boat trying to get it to work and ultimately got the boat to work OK. Bob redid the bottom filling in the huge steps and that helped. Then added a tunnel tab and that helped a little. Then played with X dimension and props which had no effect on the hop. In the end the boat would hop from 85-115. In smooth water it was at its worse and could not drive through it. In 2' chop or better could drive through it and once the boat was at 120 MPH it would finally take a set but you had to be hard on the throttles to get thru the hop.

The other ill handling issue was the outward lean when cornering from 40 MPH to 65 MPH. I simply did not want to turn the boat when it was between 40-65 MPH, it was very uncomfortable. After 70 the boat turned flat but needed a ton of wheel input to make course adjustment.

When I sold my boat I demonstrated the boat handling in detail to the new owner. He was not looking for the boat to be the fastest on the water. He loved the way the boat would ride at 80 MPH in 2'-4' chop. The older 33 was a heavy boat and it did ride very nicely in s straight line at 80 MPH. That it did very well!

Good luck, you are welcome to PM me for a phone number and pick my brain, I spent a lot of time and money on my 33 and I know what worked and what did not, we tried it all!

Would any one recommend the new 33 with 6 drives with moderate power 800 hp?
Is this hop gone on the 2012 or newer 33 daytona ? I really want one but not if this is a problem i cant and wont live with
any advise would be appreciated

The post 2000/2001 33 is a sound bottom design and very fast. I do believe there is the typical slight hop 90-100 and pronounced low speed outward turn lean but nothing like the prior bottom. I don't think many #6 33 Daytonas were built so good luck with that search. If you are looking for a center pod boat and 6 drive in that size range you may have more luck finding a quality F32 DCB as there were quite a few of them built with 6 drives. I believe there are 2-3 for sale right now, Bob Teagues personal boat being one of them. The F32 also amazingly has no hop at any speed and turns great at all speeds.

Thanks for the info I love the DCB but my heart is on the Daytona .Is Bobs boat on the classified OSO? I guess I will ask eliminator if his team has the bottom figured out. I was going new not used .Hopefully all the years they have been in biz they can get the set up to work properly for a future buyer . I just want a river boat with 6.s and good reliable power
Anyone else buy a new 33 lately that they are happy or un-happy with?
Thanks everyone

SlighT hop???? Tell that too everyone who has privately contacted me and some on this thread. Try 80 -105.... maybe with some ***** engines. I wouldn't be so pissed if some people didn't tell me about the excuses that have been thrown out there. If you want one hell of a deal come get mine. Has 100,000 in engines and perfect shape. Tons of options. 75,000 and it books for 106,000.

I was referring to slight hop in post 2001 not pre 2001 like yours. The current bottom is a good design and works well.

I am obviously tainted and own an F32 DCB but I have also owned a 33 Daytona and the build quality and overall performance of the F32 vs a Daytona is no comparison IMHO. The F32 just does everything right at all speeds. The Daytona still has some slight character flaws, not serious but evident.

Bobs F32 is on DCB web site and power boat listings along with 2 other #6 F32's. Bobs has fresh state of the art 1,200's which I can tell you from experience act like stock motors until you put the sticks down, they are so docile around the dock but are explosive in acceleration.

Mine make 1200 and 1000 ft lbs. Also a 33 2001 and newer don't hop bad. Just the hulls with the notch in sides 2 per side

Sorry don I read it while driving. Now I'm on my iPad and yes I will agree. Once my eliminator is sold I will be looking into a dcb,or 28 outboard skater. I'm done with eliminator . These where my dream to own them and I have nothing but disappointment in the 33. My 25 was fun and is the fastest 25 built and is still highly sought but it's for sale too. Hard too find someone wanting a small 25 right now I guess.

Shane, is your 33 the one from Michigan with custom poker run rear seat built into the engine hatch and #5 drives? If so I had many conversations with that original owner as we were both working on the bottoms of our 33 to get the boat to work. Just an FYI, Thane (when he was at Eliminator) reworked the bottom of my boat and got it to work OK, far from perfect but way better. Thane is now the GM at Nordic in Havasu and if you have not talked to him you may want to consider it as he might be able to help settle down your boat.

Thanks doc.. I've been trying to find him. I own a fiberglass shop and just need too know what he did. My boat is from oklahoma and texas. If you go too Google and put in 99 33 daytona at legend marine it will pull it up. It's white,purple,gray. Thx.

Shane, tell Thane that Don Johnson sent you, he is my neighbor in AZ. Thane is a really busy guy so please respect that. On my 99 33 Daytona what was done was the 2 huge steps were filled to a much smaller and conventional step. Then some rocker was removed and straigtened the last 5-6 feet. The bottom worked much better but as I said was far from perfect. It got the boat settled down and I could drive thru the hop as long as there was 1-2 chop. If the water was smooth forget about it, no driving thru the hop. Lastly the boat always had a pronounced outward lean at speeds under 50 MPH. After 50 it would turn flat but after 80 MPH took a ton of wheel input to course correct. Bottom line the pre 2001 bottom is a bad design. Eliminator and I spent a lot of money and time getting mine somewhat manageable......Mine ran a best of 138 MPH with 1,100's and B Max drives. Depending on conditions, the boat would take a set around 120 MPH. I spent a lot of time testing x dimension and props, they did nothing to help the handling issues. In the end the only thing that helped was the extensive bottom work that was done. Also the boat liked 36 Bravo 4 blades the best and 1/4" inward camber on the drives. I hope this helps you.

Just as a tip-in, Greg Olsen's 33 Daytona ran 192 2 years ago at LOTO...top performer, with Gary Teague motors and #6 drives.

Greg also was King of the Desert in the same boat in 2009 in Havasu...

Check youtube and watch the videos...

One of my favorite 33 Daytonas from a few years ago...

http://youtu.be/mYj6J_2IRmc

Shoreline video of the same boat...notice the "LACK" of bow rise...the 33'D just pops and goes...
This was with NO trim and NO tab... :cool

http://youtu.be/ZhkaK_7NSpw

Desert Storm 2009
 

Greg's run in the Shootout...

http://youtu.be/xeRlVpcirIQ Excellent camera work by SpotOn...

understand you so well bro !!
Before buying mine CC never hop, after the deal and driving boat myself it hops all the time :lolhit:
After 3 years now, sorry to say this but it is in hull design.
Boat want to go exact position but drives, props, cg, x-dim, in/out, etc. not allowed to do that.
Same thing with CC can make it less but never get it away..
It is too accuracy for running position (angle).
Maybe it is pontoon angle (more "V" degree could help) maybe something else.

Have try weight to bow weight to stern, different props no help.
Now i have #6 shafts and prop world is open..
Next season will try big tunnel tab..

Good luck to you :)

What type of drives did the yellow Daytona have? With what power? .Im surprised with so many newer Daytona"s out there that no one other then Eliminator hasn't piped in and said their boat runs without hop ? Maybe time to re-think this and get a row boat .Any Eliminator owners out there with newer hull ?
Thank you everyone

I'm not a cat guy (I wish to be someday) so I have absolutely no understanding of them but I'm gonna say this probably dumb thing I always assumed: that hopping was from the air starting to pack and release under the tunnel, and not a bottom thing.

Here's the Yellow 33' Daytona built back in the mid 2000's...
TCM 900hp power and drives...ran 140 right off the trailer smooth as silk, quick set w/o trim or tab...

http://youtu.be/ls5NhnIUo4U Proof is in the vids...I've got more if you need 'em? The 33'D needs good power to push it along (700's +)...525's won't do it...

Not a bottom thing... Yes if it is an aeroplain, but we want cat keep staying on water.. ;)

So yes pontoon bottoms has own efect for the cat.