Transom/Stringer Replacement
 

Hi,

I intend on rebuilding the transom & probably some stringers in the near future on my 34 Scarab. I read a lot of previous threads & all prove most informative. I really want to stop rot once & for all & have decided that coosa looks to be the go. I can't seem to find any threads on a complete coosa project? Are there any pitfalls or things to watch out for going this way?? Does anyone have a complete instruction for this??

Thanks in advance

Im doin my 31 corsa transom,keep the outside skin intact and use this stuff ,im gonna www.transomrepair.com tripps

Tripps,

Are you sure you want to use Seacast for this type of job on this size boat? I read in previous threads that it is good for smaller outboard rigs but doesn't have the strength for bigger sterndrive applications? Particularly, in stringers where big blocks will reside.

This is a large boat
 

and it needs to be rebuilt the correct way. If you need to contact me feel free. A good start would be a moisture meter to find where the moisture stops and you will know how far to go.

Billy
Bottoms Up Boat Repair

Bottoms up,

Seeing I live in Sydney, Australia & the obvious time difference, what is the best time to catch you. I very much would like to contact you. Could you pm me or do you have skype??

I left the outer skin on,am gonna reglass the inside,which i only cut out 2/3 of the inside and am gonna mount a twin engine bracket,and a tie bar assembly to the stringers!!! tripps

Tripps,

Are you going to use ply or going complete glass. If so, what is your methodology & raw material procedure? Any help would be much appreciated.

Check out this thread and how he did his transom. Post 13 starts to show the work.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...d.php?t=166186


Jon

Wow that is some serious glasswork time to get buildup like that!

Yeah I know I've read that one. Doesn't give much insight as to the process. You'll notice I put in a reply there & I tried pming 38KV & as yet he hasn't replied. I really like his work & it's exactly what I want for my boat. Do you think he used Coosa or just glassed up many layers?

Im gonna use that seacast stuff,then glass over it,check out that site and look at the technical section,looks reag good and i have a sample of it,very intense ,alot stronger than plywood,easier to use and about the same cost,but alot less work!!! tripps

Tripps,

I read in previous threads that it doesn't have the strength of plywood. Are you sure it is the way to go with your boat?? What size & type is it??

sea cast is in fact strong. how ever in for some applications it does not have the ability to with stand structual distress under different thicknesses.
basically the difference between using kevlar or crabon fiber.
one has less flexability , but more strength. the other has ability to give with out using or loosing strength.

Thats correct,thats why they say to use cloth,resin,also,and im gonna fabricate some nice ti bars to help it out with the 2 mercs and bracket tripps

got any pics of it??

not yet the transom is down to the glass and wood that is stuck 2 it that i will be sandin off,ill take some pics soon tripps

Thanks Tripps. I look forward to them. Right now I'm trying to sort out my coosa order from the distributor here. I'm looking at a combo of 1" & 3/4" 8' x 4' panels & cutting down to size. The guy also asked what glass weight will I be using for the inner transom skin? Does anyone know what glass weight Wellcraft used on their Scarab inner transoms??

Ok guys, if you can't answer that one, what about the most valuable tool you can't do without when performing a rebuild on transom/stringers? Does a sabre/reciprocating saw prove to be the best or crowbar?? What is it that makes this job easier??

A reciprocating saw is a must.

to cut the transom glass from the inside,i used a 4.5 grinder that has a very thin wheel.045 to be exact,made for steel,get them from a welding supply store,cuts right thru,i took off the guard,and be carefull!!!. some prying is nessarry,but depends on the job,i just cut and pulled the crap out ,a sawzall is a must,with a long blade tripps

Well after sanding all the wood that was stuck to the glass,and about 6 more hrs making a plywood form,spacers out of 1 inch dowls,bolting a steel angle iron to the transom,i finnally poured the seacast today,all went well,it was easy to use,and it came out good,so far,ill let you know how it comes out during the week. i will remove the plywood form,which i covered with wax paper.its quite a job,but it will be worth it in the end,i took pics,but i gotta figure out how to postem on OSO,ive never had good louk doin it tripps

Yeah great Tripps. I look forward to seeing them. According tho the Seacast website it is very important to not have residual wood/dust in there to contaminate the bind. How did you go with that?

I blew it out of the hard to get spots with air,and that stuff is plenty liquid enough tho penentrate all the other spots,and it is curing nicely!!! tripps

Good one. Let me know how it all comes together. I had my heart set on going down the Coosa way but now I probably will go with marine ply. I was talking to JDub yesterday & he said that I shouldn't even use epoxy. Since it was originally a polyester boat, the repair should continue on with these resins not epoxy. Wow the plot thickens??

[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Owner.YOUR-1BEB4B8DCC\My Documents\My Pictures\transm pis[/IMG]

pics
 

[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Owner.YOUR-1BEB4B8DCC\My Documents\My Pictures\transm pis[/IMG]

its impossible:violent-smiley-045::violent-smiley-045::ernaehrung004:tripps

get your son to do it :D

Epoxy sticks to polyester, polyester doesn't stick well to cured polyester. Go to the West system website.

Thanks Excalibur

Yes go to the West System website and reread the Primary/Secondary Bonding notes. Any resin (including epoxy) needs mechanical help for proper bonding on cured resins. It's called grinding and sanding. You need to do proper prep work. Once that is achieved polyester resin over cured polyester will work fine. Save your money!

Or if you want an inbetween solution go with Vinnylester. Not much more money then Poly but much stronger and a MUCH higher bond coeficient to old glass.

ditto to what Audio said

I fiberglassed to day,came out good so far,took some pics,i'll postem soon!!! tripps

Jez,I'm getting into the same job on my Stinger and am going to use Coosa on it. I talked to a guy in the south who uses it exclusively and guarantees his transoms and stringers with a lifetime transferrable warranty! I emailed him and he was very helpful with how to prep everything and what to do. His work really looks top-notch. I know you talked about a lamination of Coosa, but they have thicknesses up to 2", so you really don't need to unless there is an ulterior motive. Have you contacted Coosa to ask them what product you should use in your boat, or have you passed on the composite thing all together?

Here is the reply I got when inquiring about Coosa...

Thank you for your email. Yes, our Bluewater 26 is the material that 98% of our OEM customers use in their transom applications. It is available from 0.25" up to 2" thick. It does not matter whether you laminate 0.75" material together to meet your desired thickness or use a single 1.50" or 2" piece (use the thickness of your current transom). The strength is the same. It basically comes down to your preference of labor - if your transom is large whereas you yield only one per 4x8 sheet, then it might save you time to just buy the sheet in the full thickness you need. If your transom is small and you can yield several per 4x8 sheet, then it would save you money to buy the 0.75" material and laminate them together - depending of course, how many you can get out of a sheet.

Our material does not absorb water and is not subject to rot, fungus, mold, etc. It can be easily fabricated with standard wood-working tools and works well with all typical marine resins - epoxy, vinyl ester, poly ester. You would glass in our material the same as you would plywood.

Thank you for your interest in Coosa Composites. Please feel free to contact us with any additional questions.

Sincerely,

Jennifer Donaldson
Coosa Composites LLC
(205) 663 - 3225 ext. 106
[email protected]
www.CoosaComposites.com
Hope that something in there is helpful to you and remember--POST THOSE PICS!!!

CCstinger,
I have to replace the transom & stringers in my 21-v and was considering Coosa's Bluewater 26 product or marine grade plywood. One sheet of 3/4" marine grade ply costs me about $75. Would you mind sharing the Coosa prep info the builder passed on to you?
Thanks!
Dan

Dan, I'll look for his email and get back to you soon.

I used coosa to replace transom, floor and stringers. Really easy to work with. I used systems 3 silvertip epoxy and it worked out great.
Transom
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...t/P1030359.jpg
Stringers
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...t/P1030607.jpg
Sole
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...t/P1030606.jpg
Swim platform
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...t/P1030876.jpg

[QUOTE=mtnrat;2290583]I used coosa to replace transom, floor and stringers. Really easy to work with. I used systems 3 silvertip epoxy and it worked out great.
QUOTE]

Really nice job. What kind of boat?

It is an old 18ft 1981 Campion. My wifes father bought it for her when she was out of high school. Because of the sentimental value, I spared no expense bringing it back to better than new. I also faired the hull and painted the whole boat with 2 part polyurethane. Ran very well this summer, but it wants to go faster. I am now building a new engine for it.
Here is the finished product.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...t/P1030882.jpg
New interior. Did it all except for the sewing.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...t/P1030891.jpg