CNC

Channel surfing this am, ended up watching US Farm Report....commercial for the "RUST GUY" comes on, claiming to bond w/rust and stop it permanently. On their website (rustguy.com) says great for marine. Anyone try it?? In the marine world something is always rusting.

James

Bonds to rust ok , cuts off o2 & H2O ok,stops rust permanently ?? what happens to the salts 02 and h20 within the rust already? How long is permanently? Do you get your money back on a $ 20.00 can of paint if it does not work ?

This or similar products work as well as an old lady with a face lift, looks great for a year or so they reality sets in

couple ways to do this # 1 the cheap way and do it again and again each year, or # 2 the expensive way blast clean apply appropriate protective coatings

ezstriper

hard to beat rustoleum !!! scape, sand, paint and forget....

uhpguy

James is right on the money. Unless you remove the chlorides(salts), you will never end the rust. UHP waterjetting is the best, followed by sandblasting, and lastly power tooling.

Benchchemist

I dont agree 100%, POR 15 works very well, does bond to rust, and dries gloss black. This stuff is indestructable.

BY U BOY

Used some carboline rust bond sealer 6 years ago and boat in salt water. worked like a champ.

http://msds.carboline.com/website/carbmsds.nsf/(all)/A588B285A9F7CA368525705A00434C2C/$file/Rustbond+&+Rustbond+FC+PDS+8-06.pdf

tommymonza

I had parasail boats for years working in saltwater .Used to do the Ospho rust removal paint routine. . Worthless.

Then did the sandblast it and powedercoat it routine, Was unbelievably disappointed how poorly that held up.

This is metal parts that are used in the bilge and have been sandblasted by me previously to going to the sandblaster and powdercoat guy and I am anal about having an absolutely clean sandblasted part when i sandblast. so i am positive the prep was not part of the problem.

Go back to the old ways a good, sanblasting with a Zinc Oxide Chromate primer mixed heavy on the acid side and than paint a thick coat with Sherwin Williams 40 dollar a gallon industrial Epoxy and forget about it for the rest of your life .

You will never worry about it again.

wjb21ndtown

I used some stuff that came in a plastic bottle with a screw cap, and brush mounted to the cap (the cap was kind of like the cap for PVC glue). It worked great, but I don't remember the name of it.

When it comes to rust inhibitors not all products are created equal. I haven't had good luck with rustoleum.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

I used to be in the car restoration biz and occasionally i would use that stuff on frames for "driver" quality cars. Worked great, not sure exactly what that stuff is but its pretty bomber.

uhpguy

Tommy, I remove coatings for a living. The problem with sandblasting and power tooling, is that it doesnt remove all of the contaminents. You are simply trapping the salts, rust, etc into the old profile. The sand is basically knocking down the old profile and creating a new one. Thats why ultra high pressure water jetting works so well. It doesnt create a profile, it simply cleans the old one. Now mind you, to actually see the trapped particles requires testing. Its not something you can actually see with the naked eye.