CC230

Thanks tcwcar, that would be a big help.

JRider

iTrader: (1)

The Macropoxy I used was white but it was satin. Are you saying your primer was Macropoxy and your topcoat was what Fix used...that may be why yours is glossy and mine is satin? When I say satin I mean there is little or no reflection.

tcwcar

iTrader: (1)

Ok this is what I used first (primer} Macropoxy 646 color B58 w610(mill white) in a gallon, hardener for the Macropoxy B58 V600 in a gallon... now I used the prime because my bilge was real rough, I sanded the crap out of the bilge and used the macropoxy to help fill in over the rough spots and low spots, the marcopoxy is real thick, it did a great job of filling in inperfections. Then I sanded the macropoxy with 180 gt once it hardened. Then I used the high solids polyurethane paint B65w311 exrtra white in a gallon, hardner for that is B60V30 and that is a quart, they will also tint it to any color you want...the top color I used is a gloss, the macropoxy prime is a satin....

CC230

Thank you tcwcar, that's a great help! Now I'll know I got the right stuff, they weren't sure what to use, and that was with the area rep there.

stormbauer

Did you spray both applications? If so what type of gun n nozzle did you use?

JRider

iTrader: (1)

The macropoxy is a top coat and does not need to be coated over. I believe you can thin it and spray it but it is THICK. It will fill screw holes with ease. I used long nap 4" rollers, throw away trays and throw away brushes. The home depot has them as package deals for like $5. I did 2 coats on mine but it is thick enough that you could get away with one.

tcwcar

iTrader: (1)

J your probably right marcopoxy can be used as a top coat, but I asked my SW dealer what I should use since I had spots sanded down to the bare glass, he recommended using Marco as a primer and a filler, and go over the Macro with 646 poly for glossy finish....I rolled mine with a foam rollers for a smoother finish, but if your using the marcropoxy and going to use foam rollers, get the good ones, the chemicals in the marcopoxy hardener will tear up the cheap ones quick.....I put 2 coats of macropoxy and 2 coats of 646 poly. didn't spray it came out pretty smooth with the foam rollers, and I will tell you this it is hard as nails, dropped plenty of wrenches in the bilge after I painted it no chips or nicks, powercoating chips easier than this stuff does....

ezstriper

No idea what the hell you did, or did not do, but have used the professional series rustoleum(from lowes) on several boat, every one tuned out great, nice gloss, flowed out great, did not use any additives and brushed 2 coats allowing 2 days to dry between, always help up great, and my currant boat has been done almost 4 years and still looks like the day I did it..and that after a oil line failure and steering line blowing apart and covering everything in oil twice....now you can't paint it when it's 30 deg and expect to dry, of if you do not let 1st coat dry properly...

f_inscreenname

If you add a little of this you can repaint in 20 minutes and will be hard as nails in less then an hour.

TomR

I agree with Ezstriper, I have had great luck with the Rustoleum.