seebold 236

OK cut out one stringer so far and transom is wet but not rotted, so I am assuming that should be replaced also. I can't find 7 ply birch only 5 ply, I know the more plys the stronger I did find 7 ply 9 including the veneer on each side pine finish grade? Also how much 1708 has everyone else used on similar projects, I have no clue how much to order. I was going to order 10 yards and a 6"x25 yard roll of 1708 along with 5 gal vinyl ester, 5 qt cabosil and 4 lbs 1/4 chop strand. Does this sound accurate for stringers, transom, and rear seat bulk head?

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

be careful with birtch, make absolutely sure it is 100% sealed and glass encapsulated. water cannot come in contact in any way. I believe birtch has a slightly higher sugar content maling it a bit more susceptible to breaking down (rot) otherwise works great.


you order looks like a good place to start but the 10 yrds of 1708 sounds a bit light. At the least I would double that.

the bear

post up some pics of your boat, I started my performance boating with a 236 seebold eagle. great boat,

seebold 236

Thanks for the info glassdave, what plywood should I look for? I found one place locally that can get marine ply but I have to buy a unit! I don't need 50 pcs so what should I use as a alternative? Does my material list look like everything is covered for this size job? I'm new to major fiberglass work so I'm relying on OSO for this repair. I'll try yo get some pics up tonight of the boat.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

how many and how long are the stringers?
ten yards of 1708 is barely enough for just the transom. Thats only thirty feet and you figure you gonna knock off two pieces nine foot long just for the face laminates and the rest will be eaten up in incidentals. For transom/bulkheads/stringers i would probably start at twenty or twenty five yards minimun. It really only takes a few minutes to get a pretty good estimate. Just measure out all the panels you have to make and it is just a product of sq.ft.

I generally tell people to start with a five, its quite a bit of resin and you'll know once you get going how much you will go through.

The 1/4 chop strand isnt something i use much of. I have probably fifty or sixty pounds i got at an auction years ago and really dont have much use for it. You can add a bit of strength to cabosil but i rarely do. These days for fillets and edge filling i use CoreBond but cabsil is the next best (convenient) thing

My standard OEM style layup is two layers of 1708 over everything with two extra layers of tabbing at all the joints. Fibrics these days are much better then the big piles of roving that was used in the past. Clean balanced layups with the proper amount of resin will out perform what was originally there no prob,

seebold 236

Two at 40" x10" and floor on each side about 16" to 18" wide by the 40". Transom is about 36" high from the lowest point of my pad and same for the bulkhead. So figure two layers on everything, do I need a full layer across the hull when everything is out before replacing anything? I don't mind over ordering the things that don't have a shelf life, I'll probably be doing the cockpit floor over in time. Any tips on what plywood? Thanks for the info glassdave

seebold 236

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