xlint89

I did use a rubbing compound first, followed by the Meguier's oxidation
remover, (didn't have the high gloss polish) and followed that up with the Meguier's Flagship cleaner/wax.

When finished indoors, it looked great.

My storage building was sold, so I had to move the boat out. It went to the mechanic to have the engine replaced about 3 weeks ago. It was stored indoors during the engine swap/out drive service for about a week. The last 2 weeks has been stored outdoors. Now I see the oxidation coming back.

I did just order the Fountain of Youth totally buff and the vitreol. Hopefully I get longer lasting results with it.

Sorry, I cannot answer your question about the foam pad. I'm a newb with this buffing stuff.

xlint89

This is how it looked a couple weeks ago. And now I got the chalky white appearance coming back

scarabman

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=

I did just order the Fountain of Youth totally buff and the vitreol. Hopefully I get longer lasting results with it..[/QUOTE]

Be careful with the Totally Buff. I just tried some about a week ago on my Red Gel boat, and it ended up leaving VERY distinct scratches. The abrasives dont seem to break down at all per their claim, at least with the bottle I got. I contacted the company with my experience and a detailed description of what I had done and the results, and got no help at all. I ended up having to redo the TB areas with 3M Heavy Duty which removed the scratches left by TB. Waste of time and money. That said, I can save room in the garbage by selling you a slightly used bottle cheap!

xlint89

I saw his results and thought that looked great.

I hope I don't have the same problem as you Scarab.

xlint89

Since I have to remove the new/old wax to redo the boat with the Totally Buff, what's the best way to remove it?

Hull cleaner with acids?

Denatured alcohol on a rag?

Something else?

And I have an aluminum trailer, what's the best way to protect it from damage?

Wrap it in plastic?

Thanks for any tips you guys might have.

xlint89

So the finish went from that ^^^ indoor pic, to this ^^^ outdoor pic in 1 month's time.

Boat has not been splashed and going on 3rd week stored outside.

Hull was not real bad to begin with. I just wanted that nice reflection it should have.

1. Started with washing boat with automotive car wash.

2.Turtle wax rubbing compound with a synthetic wool buffing pad on Harbor freight variable speed polisher at 1500 RPM. When finished, I ran a dry, clean, synthetic wool pad over the boat to remove any residual compound

3. Meguier's oxidation remover from the Marine/RV fiberglass restoration kit found at auto parts stores applied with synthetic wool pad at 1500 RPM. When finished I ran the same clean, dry, synthetic wool pad to remove any residual compound.

4. Followed that with the Meguier's flagship cleaner wax applied with synthetic wool pad at 2000 RPM. Once again, used a new synthetic wool pad to remove the wax once dried. In spots, the wax would be extremely difficult to remove without excessive hand rubbing with a microfiber cloth towel. Not sure what's going on with that?

Every compound used had it's own new wool pad and used a lot of product.. If pad began to gum up, I would "rake it" with the pointy end of a nail.

I did not do it in 2' sections, but prob 4' sections because I applied so much product to the pad. It was indoors and cold so I wasn't worried about product drying out.

This was not a one-day process either. I had multiple days doing this, taking my time to try and get it as good as I possibly can.

Like I said, very disappointed to see the oxidation coming back so quickly after putting so much work into it.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

thats odd ive literally used many many dozens of gallons of TB with nothing but great results. Sorry you had issues with it and that Kevin could not resolve. What pad were you using? just curious at this point.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

some gel finishes are so badly UV damamged they can die back quickly, my 26 Stinger only took a few hours to start to discoler after a very agressive buffing thats when i got out the sanders and painted it. I try to tell everyone that buffing is no gaugentee it will come out great or even last but it is the first step in determining how far you want to go with a given finish. These things all take sun damage differently for any number of reasons, especially darker colors.

Im tellin ya while i was doing my Stinger i swear i could see it dieing back at the other end ofwhere i started by the minute, it was a nuts and i only did one side before i through in the towel on buffing. Some times its bossible to get deep enough to get past much of it but its difficult and un predictable.

xlint89

Thanks for the reply.

I just got my order of Totally Buff and Vitreo today. I'm curious if something is wrong with the TB? It's not creamy like most products. Even after shaking it, it seems like it's separated. It appears to me like frozen latex paint. The liquids separated from the solids are are not blending together again. Does this sound right?

The Vitreo looks fine. Just wondering about the TB. Thanks

scarabman

iTrader: (1)

Rotary with wool pad at between 1800 and 2000 rpm worked until product basically gone. Not sure if it is typical of the product, but running a bit between your fingers, you can very distinctly feel the abrasive. With the buffer, as I wasnt really believing what I was seeing, I took a little bit on my finger tip and rubbed it on the gel until gone and it left scratches. Just doesnt seem, like the abrasives break down. Tried a different pad also, just to make sure it wasnt the pad itself.