Replacing stringer, Chainsawed out wood, how to remove remainder and grind?
#12
Registered
I claim to be no expert but...if you "hollow" out the stringers and replace with wood. If there are small gaps or imperfections between the new wood and old glass...that glass is going to crack under load. Without everything being tight together I see issues long term with hairline cracks. I don't see how you can correctly bond the old glass to new wood.
#13
Registered
Platinum Member
why are u chain sawing the stringer up that way?? i cut mine with saws all...then removed it in two peices.
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#14
Registered
I was impressed! Never thought of using a chainsaw!!! To be honest, I don't know if I'd be confident enough in myself to be in that confined space wielding a limb tearing off chainsaw! Respect dude!
#15
First
No.., no..., noooo..., this is not the cheap way. That ship sailed long ago this boat is getting redone from end to end. All stringers cut out except the engine bay, they may follow too.
Second epoxy fills gaps but everything has to be perfect on ground with 80 grit for max adhesion (as per west systems)
Third chainsaw works great but like you said you have to VERY careful!
No.., no..., noooo..., this is not the cheap way. That ship sailed long ago this boat is getting redone from end to end. All stringers cut out except the engine bay, they may follow too.
Second epoxy fills gaps but everything has to be perfect on ground with 80 grit for max adhesion (as per west systems)
Third chainsaw works great but like you said you have to VERY careful!
#17
Registered
if you want the new glass to be that thick just use 24 oz roving with matt in between... 4 layers of 1708 is probably just as strong and also lighter though. I did 5 or 6 layers of 1708 on my stringers and they are straight beefy