justintocars

Yea i have had some experience doing glass when restoring some corvettes. I have learned a lot more from reading all the transom replacement posts. I am planning on using vinyl ester since polly made it this long, and i want to lay gell in the engine compartment and floor. I only have one question about tabbing in at this point. Do you alternate between tabbing and full sheets of glass, and how much overlap? Say i start with 8" tape and put 6" on the transom and 2" on the hull then put down a layer of 1708 that comes out 4" on the hull, next would be what? 12" tabbing with 6" on the hull and 6" on the transom then bring the last layer of 1708 out 8"? In all the reading i have done i haven't seen this clarified or seen two people do it the same. Is their a right way to do it? should their be more than 2" of hull contact between layers?

flashgordon

I am a major do it your self kind of guy, but ""man has got to know his limits""", I paid to have all glass work done right. This is not to say you couldn't do it right, but must the right tools,,place,,etc..
You will have to realign motor mounting setups.....that was a very fun weekend drilling 30-40 7/16 holes in engine plates..you will need an alignment tool....






paid

Tractionless

FWiw there was a recent Ship Shape TV episode(s) detailing a transom replacement. They looked to really overbuild it which is good. Thier episodes are available online.

c_deezy

iTrader: (1)

Been there, done that...

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/b...tml?highlight=

I live in Ontario, and work in Columbus so if you would like some tips and tricks I could probably swing by some time.

justintocars

The boats in my heated shop. I had to take the window off to get it in their LOL but it fit. The only tools i kneed are a couple of steel rollers. I'm sure with the help of the board i will have no problems with laying it up... and if i do, i can always cut it out and start over

justintocars

Thanks for the offer I may take you up on that. I just read your thread and it sounds like you did about what im planning. For some reason the picks didnt come threw but it sounds like you did a lot of work on it!

c_deezy

iTrader: (1)

Be happy to swing by some day on my way home and offer any advice I can, hopefully save you some headaches.

All the pics on my thread are hosted by photobucket, which has been having some issues lately for some reason, site says it's down for maintenance. As soon as it gets back up I'll post a link to the dropbox with all the pictures from my project.

justintocars

Cool id like to see them! I don't know if you get pm's or not but I pm you my number.

sailtexas186548

I have done three transoms/stringers/floors now, and the advice I wished I had gotten when I was learning was this:

1. Mix your resin by weight on a digital a scale

2. Until you get good at figuring how much resin you need per job (each mixing session), always mix more than you think you need and mix it "cold", I like 1% catalyst. It sucks when you are a a tiny bit short, and have to mix more to finish what you are working on, especially when ur hands are sticky. This is twice as important when you are making a filler/paste like glueing a floor down or bedding stringers.

3. Grind with a 36grit soft back pad on an angle grinder. Replace the pad/disc often. Don't even mess with anything less agressive for the major tear out.

4. If some new glass work is going badly, stop, pull it off, and start over. It's 1000x easier than grinding out a crappy job

5. Buy the thicker nitrile gloves, the resin will eat up the thin ones

I would do it yourself, take ur time and do it right, you will be real proud and satisfied when it's all done. it is a miserable job though!

jsbrowni

Hi Dave, I am using the Duratec primer; is there a way to color tint white so as to match or blend better with the white gelcoat I spray on top? I tend to over sand /buff the corners and the primer visible. On that note, can I add white gelcoat or tint the resin when making repairs?
Regards,
Shawn