Transom hole repair/LED removal
#1
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Thread Starter
Transom hole repair/LED removal
I am working through all the minor repair items on a new to me boat next on my list is transom LED removal and repair. At some point instead of fixing factory installed Shadow Caster transom LED's someone decided to stick another set of Blufin LED's on the transom which looks like shiite Shadow Casters are oblong Bluefins are large diameter round yes I have a bad case of OCD. I plan on pulling the Bluefins off and replacing the dead shadow casters. I will have 3 small 1/8" holes and 1 larger 1/4" hole when I remove the Bluefins my thoughts are to use Marine Tex epoxy putty and tint it black with the Marine Tex recommended tint.
Is this a bad idea or is there a better solution?
Is this a bad idea or is there a better solution?
#2
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I would just make sure the hole is cleaned of any silicone that might have originally been used to seal them to the transom. Epoxy will seal it up nice. I’ve used it on mine and sanded it smooth,can’t even feel it with a fingernail after buffing the gel.
#3
*
Platinum Member
I'll never figure out the fascination with underwater transom lights in view of the potential for water penetration problems into the transom core down the road , but to each his own .
Do NOT use marine tex. Far too brittle and not resinous enough to penetrate the substrate materials and bond permanently no matter how nicely the end result may look . It will eventually break away , and in goes the water .
Drill the the existing holes a size or two larger and bevel (or countersink) the outer hole area and use a wettish epoxy resin filler that will bond well with the glass and inner wood. For little jobs like this I like to load the mixture in a small syringe and force it in the hole. It may be necessary to sand flush and re-paste again to get a nice even finish but it will bring you long term peace of mind.
And don't even think of just jamming some silicon or 5200 in there .
Do NOT use marine tex. Far too brittle and not resinous enough to penetrate the substrate materials and bond permanently no matter how nicely the end result may look . It will eventually break away , and in goes the water .
Drill the the existing holes a size or two larger and bevel (or countersink) the outer hole area and use a wettish epoxy resin filler that will bond well with the glass and inner wood. For little jobs like this I like to load the mixture in a small syringe and force it in the hole. It may be necessary to sand flush and re-paste again to get a nice even finish but it will bring you long term peace of mind.
And don't even think of just jamming some silicon or 5200 in there .
The following 5 users liked this post by madbouyz:
Gimme Fuel (08-07-2020), rak rua (08-06-2020), scippy (08-06-2020), sonicss42 (08-09-2020), Too Stroked (08-09-2020)
#4
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^^^^^this 100%^^^^
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Gary H...
Gary H...
#5
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Thread Starter
I'll never figure out the fascination with underwater transom lights in view of the potential for water penetration problems into the transom core down the road , but to each his own .
Do NOT use marine tex. Far too brittle and not resinous enough to penetrate the substrate materials and bond permanently no matter how nicely the end result may look . It will eventually break away , and in goes the water .
Drill the the existing holes a size or two larger and bevel (or countersink) the outer hole area and use a wettish epoxy resin filler that will bond well with the glass and inner wood. For little jobs like this I like to load the mixture in a small syringe and force it in the hole. It may be necessary to sand flush and re-paste again to get a nice even finish but it will bring you long term peace of mind.
And don't even think of just jamming some silicon or 5200 in there .
Do NOT use marine tex. Far too brittle and not resinous enough to penetrate the substrate materials and bond permanently no matter how nicely the end result may look . It will eventually break away , and in goes the water .
Drill the the existing holes a size or two larger and bevel (or countersink) the outer hole area and use a wettish epoxy resin filler that will bond well with the glass and inner wood. For little jobs like this I like to load the mixture in a small syringe and force it in the hole. It may be necessary to sand flush and re-paste again to get a nice even finish but it will bring you long term peace of mind.
And don't even think of just jamming some silicon or 5200 in there .
Appreciate your help
Last edited by Awash; 08-06-2020 at 05:13 PM.
#7
Registered
I used the west systems six 10 on mine and pumped it till it shot out inside. I also used it to seal deck to the hull and got idea from this forum. So far it seems to be holding up good ,only time will tell though
The following users liked this post:
Awash (08-08-2020)
#8
Gold Member
Gold Member
Now I ask you, does that make sense or what?
The following 5 users liked this post by Too Stroked:
30outlaw (10-20-2020), Gimme Fuel (08-10-2020), Padraig (08-09-2020), rak rua (08-09-2020), TomZ (08-25-2020)