l Lets be carefull there Bird !!!!! Axa may have the " BLUE " but he ain't got the " BEAK " !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Sincerely -
Your little Fountain Buddy

After driving the Beak Boat last summer... I think he might have me by a few. Doesn't really matter, he'd have to run wide open for a Long streach to completely loose me!

Third,
I spent the holiday weekend the same way as you. Pretty much finished today. Fired the port engine yesterday but it was already dynoed , so except for changing back to the T-bolt dist. everything was set.
Fired the starboard one tonight. I must have done some thing wrong. Pulled the lanyard and cranked till I had oil and fuel pressure , then hooked it back up , hit the throttle twice and it fired like it was already warm . Checked the timing and it was dead on , dumb luck I guess.
Here it is idling with a 12.3 A/F on the meter.

Nice Mo, congrats

I've got a new problem now, power steering pump high pressure line elbow at back of pump bears hard on the exhaust manifold. Can't shim, studs are too short. Probably going to have to change-out the hose fittings and use a street elbow.

It always did hit. I just used to plow it in.

Another PIA.

If it will make you feel any better , look for my engine hatch lift. Don't see it do you??? CAUSE IT DON'T FIT BETWEEN THE MANIFOLDS ANYMORE . The exhaust ports on the Canfield heads are a little higher than the Merlin heads ,which were higher than the stock heads. Each time they got higher the engines got wider .
Now I have to re-engineer the lift system. Mount the lift in front of the exhaust and leaning back to the existing mount on the hatch "might" work with a piece of extension pipe on the lift motor. If not and I have to move the mount on the hatch , I'll need a different lift lenght. Mines got 12" movement the also come in 18" which shoud do fine , for an additional $277 . Ya neva done.

I ran into similar problem when I tried to replace the old hatch lifter--everything I looked at had diameter that was too large to fit between manifolds.
Check out the hydraulice system this outfit has--there is button on lower left of page-- http://www.apimarine.com/ --I attached a pdf from thier cataloge

Thanks, but I moved mine forward in front of the manifolds and laid it back a bit to hit thr original hatch mount , the added a 10 inch extension and it works like a champ.
The new engines will also spin 28" Bravos 5600 rpms and I wasn't even trimmed up

My hatch lift doesn't work anymore either Heads are just a bit wider that original, lift cylinder contacts the drain plugs on the sides of the risers. These are not the normal drains for the exhaust. Actually, I don't really know why those plugs are there. Gonna have to try to replace them with something that threads in further of just grind 'em down for clearance. Chances of getting those 16 year old steel plugs out a cast iron riser???????? not good.

I found the trick for getting those plugs out. Heat the boss up with a torch, even a bottle torch will work. Then put an ice cube on the plug. It should turn right out. I spent a whole day getting ONE plug out. Then somone told me the trick, and I had the second one out in ten minutes.

Had another intake problem over the weekend. The other engine, that didn't leak on the hose, blew at the rear water passage where the intake is blocked off. Not good! Filled the engine with water, turned every bit of the oil into a big milkshake. Don't think it entered the combustion chambers. Going to have to ream that manifold too (bolt holes). Telltale signs of bolt threads reefing into the aluminum manifold bolt holes. These Dart heads are really pissing me off. Should have removed this intake when we found the issue on the other one. But, it wasn't leaking so I let it go, big mistake. Not one of my best weekends.